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Published: June 25th 2017
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Geo: 48.62, 22.3
Status Update 20:20hrs. We are sitting in our Ukrainian Sleeper compartment trying to work out how the bedding works...there are several possible combinations of racks, chrome flaps and slots. I think I am "on top" again. It could be a long night. The train bogies are replaced with Russian wide gauge at the Ukrainian border. This involves hydraulic jacks that lift up the whole train. Come back Easyjet all is forgiven. We could have had several days in Barbados by now...instead of that we are "yomping" our way through Eastern Europe being told off by Stasi train guards for rucking up the carpet along the corridor in their 1936 - flea bag rolling stock, reminiscent of the inside of an Eastbourne bedsit just after the war.
The lights of downtown Krakow slip by as the train wends it's way into the dusk. Again we head East making our way for the city of Lviv, the gateway to a different world. A world of bling culture, gherkins, vodka, high heels and shady casino gangsters. A world where you smell alcohol on the breath of cab drivers and were you see babushkas rummaging through bins for scraps. What is the upside you
may ask....indeed.
A goods nights sleep: We discover that our destination is 1 hr ahead so "sleep shrink" is now a worry as we arrive in Lviv at 0600hrs and are going straight off to the Carpathian's for a full 6hr drive and sightseeing.... 0200hrs. Ukrainian Border Police arrive in cabin and demand passports. 0230hrs much clanking combined with hooters as train is decoupled and wheels changed: 0245hrs Ukrainian Customs burst in checking suitcases. 0330 more crashing about as train staff start preparing for arrival. 0430hrs slump into doze only to be waken by alarm clock at 0500hrs....... the next 30 mins is spend contorting ourselves trying to get dressed and packed inside what can only be described as a small matchbox...
We arrive: 0603 the train pulls in Lviv. Much excitement as we are met by Viktor our hyperactive and slightly scary driver/guide. He leads us to a small "Proton" which has a clutch problem. Will it cope with us and all our luggage? Parked next to a Lada it looks like a Rolls Royce. The station was busy and full of high heeled women and "real" men who looked like security from a downtown Moscow lap dancing bar. We must
have seemed like a couple of "Ramblers" just back from an energetic walk up Box Hill.
Progress Report: After a hearty breakfast at 0745 consisting of shredded cabbage - Georgian Soup" and meatballs we head South to The Carpathian Mountains. Rain is forecast and this time our weather luck has run out.....
Sighteeing: We stump about a local heritage centre and local rehab centre which was one a former Hapsburg Hunting Palace. Grumpy we arrive at our "Homestay". Greeted by Rex is Alsation and hosts who look like Bart Simpsons grandparents we tuck into an excellent meal of new potates, chicken fritters and salad all washed down with nettle wine. Revived we head off for a well deserved early night....1845 lights out!
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