A Midsummer's Eve Dream

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It's quite possible that our Midsummer didn't have enough drama to really suit Shakespeare. This is another long post, but I hope you find it easy to read. Midsummer is celebrated in many countries, however, it's the Swedes who hold fast to this particular tradition that welcomes summer with great fanfare. We were lucky enough to land amongst a group who were willing to share their celebration with us.

This entire year has been filled with strange (and divine) coincidences and connections, and this weekend was no exception. Back in November, we attended a Thanksgiving dinner at the home of the son of a couple we know at church in St. Peter (did you get that?). While everyone was incredibly nice and welcoming, it was an awkward evening for us...none of us spoke any Swedish, we had never met any of the many people there, I didn't know that you don't cut the dessert - we still had so much to learn and we were just incredibly lonely and a bit lost. We ended that evening visiting with two couples who, when we were getting ready to leave, told us we should come back in June for their Midsummer party. Our schedule for June was clear (as it was for EVERY day going forward) so we replied with an enthusiastic, "we'll be there!".

So a few months pass and I have "Husaby" on my June calendar. I contacted Magnus via e-mail and basically said, "remember me? You invited us to your midsummer party. Here's your chance to back out. I know how sometimes invitations get extended and then plans change (I'm thinking, for instance, you remember that you don't know these people you've invited in to your home!), it's o.k. if you're plans have changed." Magnus replied with something along the lines of, 'not only does the invitation stand, it's not an invitation, it's a requirement'. Trying to keep a long story short (do I have any other kind of story?), we said we'd love to come.

I'm from a town of about 1,000 people in South Dakota, and Husaby makes Howard look big! However, Husaby does have an important role in Swedish history, as it is believed that King Olof Skötkonung was baptized in 1008 in the church well. You can't blink and miss Husaby (like you could potentially do in many small towns), as the Husaby Church, built in the 12th century, still strikes a commanding pose in this gorgeous countryside of mile after mile of rolling farmland, farmsteads complete with red barns, horses and cows. Graceful wind turbines are a seemingly natural part of the landscape, as well. Visually, it felt like the Swedish version of Southwestern Minnesota...home in Sweden.

Now remember, we'd only met our hosts once. I knew what they looked like, but that was about it. Magnus told us we wouldn't find their place on the map...and, with the threat of rain, the party (which started Friday at noon) had been moved to another location...Per and Åsa's place. It's not on the map, either. Magnus met us at the church parking lot and led us about 2 miles through fields on grass centered roads (if you've ever lived in the country, you know the roads I'm talking about...two mud paths with long grass growing down the center) where we pulled up to see a tall man (think lumberjack, but it was really another friend, Torbjörn) hacking parking spaces into the grass with a scythe as chickens cluck all around. Now the kids are excited! Per and Åsa are the other couple that we spoke to at the dinner back in November, Per is a pastor and Åsa is a school counselor. They have kids the same spread as ours, each just a year older. As it turns out, these fantastic little "places in the country" were Magnus & Karin (we'll get to her soon!) and Per & Åsa's summer cottage dreams. Many years ago, when both couples were living in Lidköping (the nearest big city to Husaby) they started looking for country places and now, both families live in those places....and nearby, in another farm place, is the "lumberjack", Tobias, and his family. Both places we saw are fantastic "works in progress", strong little country farm houses with outbuildings and vistas that make you want to just sit down and look around. Signe was nearly through the roof with delight when she discovered baby chicks in the chicken coop!

Back to the party. Here's the traditional set-up. Herring (sil), new potatoes, schnapps & beer at noon. This feast is followed by strawberry cake and coffee and then the 4 pm gathering at Husaby's town center (the green space by the church, naturally!) where all of the people we know in Husaby comprised the fantastic band that played while the townspeople danced around the maypole. I have video. It's just my good luck, my responsibility, really, that I'm blogging and simply MUST capture every event on film, thereby freeing me from the humiliation of having to publicly dance. Karin, who is Magnus' fabulous wife and hostess extraordinaire, sat out of the dancing and gave me a play by play of what was going on. Emma, Jeff and Jorgen hopped in the circle and danced every dance...sometimes awkwardly, mostly in the spirit of, well, getting into the spirit. Signe joined them for a few select songs, but mostly sat watching with me. Just watching them stumble and giggle was a blast. Good sports, my family. Following the traditional dancing, we headed back to the farm for a cookout that lasted well into the night (perhaps in part because Magnus wasn't there to "man the grill", as he normally does).

The place where there tables were set was amazing, like something out of an indie movie. My description won't do it justice, but I'll do my best. It's a very old barn that has several purposes, including a workshop, chicken coop (inside and out - complete with chickens), bookshelves loaded with books, loft - complete with hammocks, and my favorite spot - a room with windows looking out onto the fields, that housed a wood burning open stove. There were meandering grapevines adorning the walls and ceiling along with candles and colorful fabric lamps softly lighting the place as the sun SLOWLY went down. We sat snuggly inside while the rain came and went, the sun peeked in and out and the thunder occasionally rumbled through. Åsa told me that the barn is original, but they found the big bricks for the floor out in their woods - the remains of an old barn foundation. The tables were set with wildflowers and candles.

Now for the food. Let's start with the herring. Before Sweden, I wasn't a fan. There are a couple reasons for that, not the least of which is that we never knew that each bite of herring should also contain a bit of potato and "sauce"...ahhh, the revelation! It's like milk & cookies...better together. We had herring that was traditionally pickled with spices - not sure what, but I think cardamom was involved, herring in a creamy leek sauce and herring with a caviar-cream sauce. I never thought that the words "herring" and "yum" could coexist in my vocabulary, but there you have it...yummy herring. There was also a huge basket of home baked (well, baked up North in a stone oven by Åsa) crisp bread and cheese to go with the herring.

For the record, meatballs are standard for the kids, for which our kids were very grateful. There were several different strawberry cakes and desserts and I tried them all. Later that evening, we dined on a delicious, marinated and grilled pork and roasted potato salad, followed by more desserts, including the non-traditional, but quite popular, chocolate chip cookies...my minimal, and ridiculously American, contribution. It seemed that everyone loved the Howard beef jerky, that I brought for our hosts, as well. It is the best! I guess the other "contribution" I can claim is conversation, which I never seem to run short of. Emboldened by that shot of aquavit, I figured this might be my best chance of getting to the truth about how Swedes (at least this select group) feel about being Swedish. Particularly the subjects of taxes, liquor laws and socialized health care. To make things even more interesting, let me point out that I was surrounded by a priest, a business owner, a social worker and an attorney - all very good friends. It was a fascinating conversation and one that I'm glad I got to be part of...that's all I'm going to say about that.

The evening ended, and new day began with the musician (and I do NOT use that term lightly, as these people are truly, gifted musicians) played everything from traditional Swedish summer songs to ABBA tunes (which I guess are NEW Swedish traditional!) as the kids trickled in from jumping on the trampoline and racing around playing "tag" in the near dark and, in some cases, drifted off to sleep snuggled up with their mamas (lucky me).


You would think all that would have been enough, but it was simply the beginning of one of our greatest week-ends in Sweden. Saturday morning arrived with Karin knocking on the door of the guest cottage at 8:00 am to collect the girls for horse chores...hardly a chore for girls who are starved for any interaction with the four legged dream. Noble Rose, a beautiful Irish breed, waited with her stablemates as the girls gave them their morning oats then walked them out to pasture for the day. This was my insurance for good behavior until afternoon - a promise to ride. After a big breakfast back at the farmhouse, Karin packed a fantastic lunch (including homemade baguettes!) and we headed to Sweden's largest lake, Vänern, about 45 minutes away. First we wandered through a medieval marketplace as we approached the castle, Läckö slott. Naturally, there was one member of our party who wanted to stop and admire the many swords and helmets on display. Jorgen was even able to handle a few, so he was pretty happy about that. The day was sunny and bright, perfect for a picnic on the rocks across from the castle. While we adults (including Magnus' brother, Mattias, and his girlfriend Katarina) visited and basked in the sunshine the kids fed the ducks and also came across a poisonous Viper snake, tucked into the rocks.


A not so leisurely ride back to the farm (Magnus likes to drive!) and a little power nap had us all ready for our afternoon ride. Signe & Emma were in serious horse heaven. Karin tirelessly worked with them and Noble. Noble is trained in dressage, something we know nothing about. I was riding horse nearly before I was walking as a child, one of the places I feel most like me is on the back of a horse. However, I know nothing about English riding and was as uncomfortable as if I was thrown on a Harley Davidson and told to "drive". This horse didn't understand English- or maybe it's just that year long dilemma that I don't understand Swedish. Either way, my ride was short, but the pain in my thighs lingers. That evening, we ate salmon and delicious roasted new potatoes and ended the evening looking at the gorgeous and interesting pictures of the Fredricson's winter trip to India, where they met with Per & Åsa, for the trip of a lifetime. I took a little walk to the field once everyone was tucked in, it was 11:15 pm and the sun was trying to set. It was as close to a South Dakota sunset as I've seen this year - complete with the call of a pheasant, which translates perfectly.

Our Midsummer weekend ended with Sunday mass at Per's little Lutheran church in the city. He delivered a poignant and timely message (translated to us by Magnus), we had fika and met a young woman, Anna, who will be visiting St. Peter, MN in August. Our world continues to grow smaller and larger, all at the same time. We have been ridiculously blessed in the connections that we've made this year. The Swedes have a reputation (based in fact) for being reserved. However, we have met the exceptions on so many occasions. I feel as if my family has benefited from the kindness and hospitality that my mother (and her mother before her) spent their lives sharing. Kindness karma, perhaps? If I learn nothing else from this year, I have learned that there are good and generous people around every corner. I hope I'm able to honor those examples and do the same...we hope we can return the hospitality so often offered to us. In Ingrid's words (loosely interpreted from a Norwegian saying), "If there's room in your heart, there's room in your home.".

It was a quiet drive home (there's something to be said about fresh country air!). The reality that our time abroad is nearly over is perfectly clear. Our car and bikes have been sold, our last big "Swedish Event" realized, many of our good-byes have been said. It will take just a few hours to pack our bags...Sponge Bob is speaking Swedish on the TV as I write this. I think this last week is going to be a long one.

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Photos

The Band
Per at the guitar.

Dancing
Åsa's in the skirt and her son, Karl, is in the green shirt.

Kid's Table
Worldwide phenomena.

Läckö slott
From our picnic site.

Midsummer Picnic
You recognize us, but that's Katarina, Magnus, Mattias (they remind me of some bald brothers I know) and Karin...Great hostst!

A Spot in the Country
The yellow house is the farmhouse, the red is is the guest cottage.

Curious Cows
Do you think it was the English that had them curious_

Workout!
Karin puts Signe and Noble through their paces.

Comments

[Craig]

Thanks
The year has flown by and your blog has been always a treat to receive. The Midsommar party looks and sounds magnificent. We'll have to have one out at your place next year! Welcome home. Looking forward to seeing you. Safe travels.

[megan]

see you soon
see you soon!

[Joan]

Thanks to Gunnel, I knew just how those wonderful dishes taste. What a great experience.

[Tracy]

As I read your last blog I feel emotional! What a wonderful end to your year. I can't wait to see all of you!!

[The lumberjack]

Good writing
Thank you for a good writing about our midsummer. For me, who is a part of the "Husaby midsummer tradition", it is very nice to read about it and realise that i have wonderful friends. By the way, my name is Torbjörn, but Tobias is ok.