Stockholm, Sweden - Jim Colyer

---

I flew to Stockholm, May 12, 1994. I got Swedish crowns at JFK in New York, one dollar buying between 7 and 8 crowns. We flew over Iceland and Norway to arrive at Arlanda airport the following morning. The time difference was 6 hours. I noticed on the map how Sweden is shaped like California.

A city bus took me from Arlanda to the heart of town. Late in the day, I found a room in a private home for 120 crowns a night. My address was: c/o Alice Macksey, Sibyllegatan 7, 11451 Stockholm, Sweden. Gatan means street. I was lucky to find this place.

I brought $5000, $4000 of which were in travelers checks. There was an American Express Travel Service on the other side of King's Theater where Hamngatan began.

I came light: passport, travelers checks and plane tickets in my coat pocket. Everything else was in a shoulder bag. Necessities could be gotten there. Stockholm is expensive. It was important to control my money, getting the best deals.

The main thing was to enjoy the trip. Coming in with a sketch helped. I needed an idea of why I was there and what I meant to do. When you think of going to Europe, you want to feel like you have a purpose and are in control. You do not want to be swallowed up by history. ABBA was my reason for being there. My original plan was to wait for Benny & Bjorn's Kristina musical, but I decided to go on.

Stockholm is difficult, broken up into islands. Streets twist and turn. Maps and signs are useless if you do not speak Swedish. You feel your way. The archipelago reaches 40 miles into the Baltic Sea. White sightseeing boats are seen in the harbor. On the streets, the hair of the Swedes is more golden than blonde. It shines. You realize humanity itself is shaped by environment. Svenska flickor are bicyclers, sturdy and robust. Swedes are friendly and will meet you halfway.

I mingled, talked about ABBA and picked up Swedish. I ate Swedish food, sill herring. The smorgasbord is traditionally around Christmas. Food is expensive, and McDonald's are common.

My first morning, the sun was rising at 3am. The long daylight is soft, but darkness is as precious in summer as daylight is in winter. Days and nights get stretched out.

I met a girl named Marie Halldin in the Old Town (Gamla Stan). The following week, we went to the Hard Rock Cafe. I was 48; she was 24. She would have gone with me again. I let it slide. I did not need to get hung up on a Swedish girl despite my fantasies.

Gamla Stan is block after block of narrow street and sidewalks. The buildings go back to the 1200's. The Royal Palace sits on the edge of Gamla Stan. It is a square, brown building with many windows.

One Saturday around noon, the changing of the guard began at the Army Museum below my window. I marched beside two columns in their dark berets to the sounds of brass and drums. We paraded down Hamngatan and past the Sverige Riksdag (Parliament Building). The ceremony took place in the palace courtyard.

Next door to the Royal Palace is the Stockholm Cathedral, where kings and queens are crowned.

The Royal Family consists of Carl Gustav, Silvia and their three children. They live at Drottningholm Palace, and I went there on a boat from City Hall. The water has a steely, metallic quality.

City Hall is where Nobel Prizes are given out. This brick building with its distinctive tower sits by the water. The Peace Prize is awarded in Oslo.

Scandinavia dominated Europe in the Middle Ages, and much of Sweden's history centers around the Viking period. I laid off museums and art galleries. Stockholm itself is a museum.

I did wander through Skansen, an open-air museum. It was free because the king and queen were there. There were buildings from The Emigrants period.

I searched record shops and book stores for ABBA material. Even with the revival, the John Tobler book was the only thing in print. I talked to Swedish author Carl Magnus Palm by phone. He interviewed Benny and Bjorn, Frida and Michael Tretow for his book, an overview of the recording sessions.

In the ABBA days, Polar Music was at Hamngatan 11. Benny now has a company called Mono Music. The address is: Mono Music, Sodrabrobanken 41-A, Skeppsholmen 111-49.

I went to Mono Music and met Gorel Hanser, the lady who handles ABBA's business. It was pouring rain. I was fighting my umbrella and trying to get in the building. I met Gorel head on coming through the door. She was in a hurry. I asked for five minutes. She said she did not have five minutes. I started talking. I told her I had come from the United States and had written a book called "ABBA and Their Music." I got her interest. We went inside and sat down. We talked about ABBA. Gorel was on her way to work on the box set which was due. I showed her my song, "Save The Planet," inspired by Frida. Gorel was the most angelic, ethereal person I ever talked to. She was a spirit. She said Kristina would open in Malmo in October, 1995.

Docked off the island of Skeppsholmen is the old ship Af Chapman. It is a youth hostel. I walked to the prow and stood where Agnetha's producer (Mike Chapman) stood at the start of "The Heat is On" video.

Agnetha lives on Ekero. She values her privacy, and I let her be. Ekero is not in the archipelago. It is in Lake Malaren west of the city. It is a large area consisting of a number of islands.

I contemplated a train ride to Jonkoping but called it off. Jonkoping is Agnetha's hometown. It is in the province of Smaland, where the Swedish emigrants originated. I was told that stereotypical Swedes are found there.

There was a free show on Hamngatan. Tommy Korberg performed and sang "Anthem." Korberg played the Russian in Chess. He lived in my building.

Stockholm newspapers are Dagens Nyheter, Expressen and Afton Bladet. NK is the big department store.

It is very Nordic. On May 22, sunlight could be seen for 21 hours, from 2am to 11pm. It felt like it was always daylight. I got used to it. The best place to see the Midnight Sun is Kiruna inside the Arctic Circle.

I owed my success in Stockholm to Alice Macksey, her two sons and her friend Jan. Alice told me where to go and what to do. She translated for me. We watched TV. Without her, I would have been lost.

Alice, Jan and I ate on the Patricia, a boat once owned by Alice's ex-husband. We danced to ABBA's Dancing Queen at a discotheque.

My last night, I attended Alice's birthday party on the roof. From the roof, I noticed that the sky stayed light all night.

I was amazed at how well the Swedes speak English. They watch American movies with Swedish subtitles. They know American music and politics.

I returned June 29, by the same route. 47 days later. It took 8 1/2 hours to travel 4,000 miles, Stockholm to New York. JFK Airport is on Long Island in Queens.

I had an experience with the Swedish people. That is what I came to do.

London, England

While in Stockholm, I made two trips out of the country. My first was to London. I went with Swedes and returned with Swedes, 3 days and nights through Spies travel agency. Our airline was Premair. Our airport in London was Stanstead. A bus took us to the hotel. I got British pounds at the foreign exchange (Forex).

Driving to the hotel on the left side of the road, we passed St. Paul's Cathedral. Our hotel was near two centers of activity, Piccadilly Circus (circle) and Trafalgar Square.

I began with Trafalgar Square. Nelson's column juts into the air, surrounded by four crouching lions. It was people and pigeons, black cabs and red double-decker buses. Big Ben could be seen in the distance. I avoided Britain's center of government.

Behind Trafalgar Square is the National Gallery. History unfolds: Titian, Tintoretto and Renoir. The French are your painters.

I knew what to see in the British Museum, antiquities. Elgin marbles from the Greek Parthenon! These fragments are reproduced in Nashville. The Rosetta Stone is the chunk of basalt used by Frenchman Champollion to decipher hieroglyphics.

I sought out exhibits dealing with the Viking era, 750-1050.

I got to the Tower of London and walked around its perimeter. The Tower was built by William the Conqueror after the Norman invasion of 1066. The Normans or Norsemen or Northmen were descended from Vikings.

The best view is from the Tower Bridge over the Thames. I crossed the bridge on foot. "Shakespeare stood on this river," I mused.

I rode a double-decker bus back to Piccadilly Circus. I sat on top.

Helsinki, Finland

My second trip was to Helsinki, Finland. Jan alerted me to the economy of this trip.

I sailed on the Viking Line through the Swedish Archipelago and crossed the Baltic Sea to Helsinki. The trip was short, one day and two nights. The ship Mariella was like a floating hotel, decks for floors, cabins for rooms. I stood on top as we left Stockholm.

I was the last person to come down from the top of the ship. We were in the archipelago and our speed was up. It was windy. Alice warned me about passengers falling off the ship and drowning. Suddenly, I was confused and disoriented. I could not find the stairs leading to the deck below. Out of nowhere, I heard Agnetha's voice. It was ABBA singing The Day Before You Came. It was not my imagination. The sound was coming from the ship's speakers. Hearing Agnetha composed me. I found the stairs and got to safety below. My guardian angel had come to me in my moment of need.

The Archipelago is composed of 24,000 islands. They come in all sizes. Some are tiny. Some have houses. Others are covered with woods.

That night, I talked to a guy from Atlanta and his Canadian girl friend. They were going on Russia. When I went to my cabin, someone was in my bed. I got the hostess to roust him out.

In Helsinki, I visited the Lutheran Cathedral. There is a statue of Martin Luther. I walked down Alexandersgatan and Mannerheim Street. I sensed a Russian influence.

The Finnish Mark is the currency. No passport is needed to travel around Scandinavia.

Back at the terminal, I thought of what I had seen, three world capitals: Stockholm, London and Helsinki. I had opened an international side.

---