Two days of travel...

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Off to Umea....... another fine day, +21 degrees. Our train came at 11am today so a leisurely start. It was a fast train so reached speeds of 200 kph and as there were many tunnels, our ears were popping. Only 2 stops - Kramfors where there was a huge wood processing plant - piles of logs and wood chips. In between the many conifer and birch trees were farms - a few cattle, mainly crops and some paddocks cut for hay. Ornskoldsvik at the top end of the High Coast was the other stop. Train announcements were in both Swedish and English, and the electronic sign in the carriage gave the outside temperature, with the plus sign before the number. I guess in 6 months' time, the sign could well be minus.

As in Harnosand, there was no-one at the Railway Station to help us with onward reservations - only a ticket machine, so after checking in at our hotel, we walked to the bus station across the street. They tried to be helpful, but had dealt with only 1 Eurail Pass in the previous 6 months. After a phonecall to the rail office, we made compulsory reservations for the next 2 days' travel. We were told by Eurail in NZ that we could take a bus instead of a train, if it appeared on the Swedish Rail website, but the Swedish Rail people did not seem to know this. The reason was that the trains north to Lulea went at 6.30 am then 4.30pm for a 5 hour trip - neither time being our choice. Buses had a better timetable, but we would have to pay.

Umea had a devastating fire in 1888 and they decided to rebuild with wide streets so that any future fires would not jump from building to building. The main street is a pedestrian and cycle way - very wide and planted with birch trees - the city is known as the "birch city". We enjoyed strolling down this street, through the colourful parks to the water's edge, past many beautiful old and contrasting glass and steel new buildings. It was built in 1622 by King Gustav 11 Adolf, and is a busy University city, but very quiet at the moment, being summer holiday time.

Thursday 3rd August - Off to Lulea

I didn't sleep at all well as I was worried the alarm wouldn't go off and we'd miss our train. It did go off and we even managed to have some breakfast before leaving for the Railway Station. The sun was already high in the sky and it was quite warm outside. Just as well the hotel rooms have heavy curtains, or it would be difficult to sleep. The train was 15 mins late..... it was the night train which started in Gothenburg, on the west coast of Sweden, at 6.30pm the previous evening, stopping at Stockholm at 10.30pm then continuing north to Lulea - due at 11.11am but we arrived 20 minutes later. Some of the passengers slept most of the way and one man was snoring.

The scenery was similar to the trip from Umea - grain and hay fields, wrapped bales and a few cows. Red buildings and many lakes - some with perfect reflections in the still morning air. Lots of wetlands up here too, all surrounded by fir and birch trees. This trip was all inland except for Umea and Lulea.

Once again there was no-one at the Railway Station who could reserve our onward seats, and we were sent to a Travel Agent in the city. At least they knew what Eurail passes were !!! We reserved seats for our next 2 trips, and bought bus tickets from Murjek to Jokkmokk and back, as the train from Gallivare to Jokkmokk goes only once per day and didn't fit in with our plans. I think the locals buy their tickets online or from the machine at the station, and therefore there is no need to have a cashier at the station. Makes it a bit difficult for foreigners. We spent the rest of the day visiting the Tourist Office and finding information about Jokkmokk and the indigenous Sami people, then walking along the waterfront, through parks and into the Cathedral, before returning to our hotel for a good sleep !!!

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Comments

[Sue Murray]

Enjoying your adventure
Hi Raewyn and Lee, I've just read through all your travel blog up to date. Sounds like an interesting journey. Plenty of time to relax and take in the gardens, sights, culture and the food. Well done for using your Eurail pass and working your way around the place. Have a great time up north. Cheers, Sue

[Cher]

Hi ya
Railway stations are mentioned a lot on your blog today. Can you post any photos of one? Sounds like you're having fun. Not much happening here. Labour party has a new leader and.........that's about it unless you are missing the rain ?