GR11 - Puen de San Chaime to Espot, 4 days, 474kms done

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Wednesday 10th August
Camping Aneto in Puen de San Chaime to small bothy called Refugio d’Angliós
20km (10km in bus & 10km walking)
7:15 - 17:00 with an hour bus journey, then actually walking by 8:30am, a few short breaks, 20mins in boulder field , 20mins at the top of col, 90mins at Refugio de Cap de Llauset, 20mins stuck under ground sheet seeking shelter.

Well, the idea of a bus taking us an hour up the dirt road was too tempting soooo we took it. Call it working smarter not harder or call it cheating, either way it saved us a long boring climb and meant we got to experience a bus chugging it’s way up rocky paths and swinging round tight corners alongside mountain edges; fun! Full of day packers, we let them all get off first before trying to get us and our packs out, a quick wee, and off we went!

Joining the climb at the bothy called Refugio Corones, we immediately began to climb over big rock steps through the trees and to the river. Here the path thinned and meandered up and down alongside the increasing river, getting closer and closer to it until a few rock hops meant we were over it. It was a very pretty and enjoyable climb, with another breathtaking lake and some fresh blueberries and raspberries, and then, after a bum slide off a edge drop, it hit boulderfield. Interesting and fun at first, it takes so much concentration and huge effort at times to lift yourself up and over some boulders. Carefully following the waymarkers (hard at times when looking at where your feet and poles are going!) we slowly but surely followed it along and up again all the way to the col. Beautiful.

Of course what goes up must come down, and it was more intense boulderfield leading the way, twisting and turning all the way down to the new Refugio Cap de Llauset; being overtaken by a large herd of people including an actual runner! Seriously running and pretty much leaping off edges and rocks; crazy. The new Refugio was nice and we enjoyed the recommended hot chocolate (literally just like melted chocolate!) and rest before deciding to crack on; just as our Dutch friend arrived to rest (she did not take the bus). We knew of a small bothy we could stay in tonight and thought we could make it there in time before the forecasted rain due later.

So off we went, hiking and hoping our way up to the col. More beautiful lakes lay below us and we spotted several people down there enjoying the views too. Clouds were coming but there was still blue sky so we started the descent. Then, about half way down, rain drops began to spit. Coats on and off we continued. Then, out of no where, a loud rumble of thunder. AAAAA! The rain began to increase but with nowhere flat to go on the descent or shelters to hide under we had to keep going. Stopping briefly we attempted to put on the waterproof trousers as the rain got so heavy and suddenly turned into hail! Small, then huge bits of hail! Nearing the bottom, we spotted a family (with baby!) looking unsure what to do and shaking with cold, as they stood there in shorts and vests tops. The hail was now getting hard and big, feeling the pinch through our waterproofs let alone on bare skin, and the thunder was cracking loud above us now with bright flashes of lightening. Pulling over and signalling shelter to them we grabbed out our ground sheet and huddled under it together.

Speaking good English, it was a French family out for just a day hike. The baby was pretty chilled thankfully but the mum was scared and cold. As soon as the hail eased a little, we decided to make a break for that small bothy we had been aiming for, as the family said they had come from there and it wasn’t too much further. The baby and parents went off super fast, with us remaining with the two other women (one with a physical disability) slowly making our way across the rocks around those previously beautiful but now increasingly dangerous lakes; trying not to panic too much, but I’ve never seen so much hail fall so quickly and turn the land white, and never heard such loud thunder directly above us before. The main lady was surprisingly chatty (I guess to keep the other lady calm) and by the end of the scary walk had invited us to Madagascar where she now lives and works as a tour guide.

The hail eased off, and the thunder and lightening seemed to be moving away, as we finally crossed a now full river and approached the bothy. Finding another group also seeking shelter, we all huddled in, and, with the French family soaked and freezing, gave them our dry jumpers and jackets whilst also making some coffee to warm up. Managing to laugh it off a little we had some group selfies and swapped contact details before, once the storm had passed and the sun was back, they and the others headed back out to get back to their car.

With another possible storm due later, and having had enough excitement for one day, we decided to stay the night in the bothy. Settling our stuff into one corner and hanging things to dry, we ate and stretched and thought we might have the bothy to ourselves. However, two groups then appeared and after initially thinking we’d all reluctantly cram in, one group (lads with wine and music) decided to head to another bothy. Phew. We had thought about moving out with our tent, but were soon glad we didn’t, as the wind picked up and the rain began again. The other group (three polish also hiking) were friendly but quiet, and after some chat we all settled to sleep whilst listening to the wind, rain and thunder.

Thursday 11th August
Small bothy called Refugio d’Angliós to wild camp at Lac de Rius
16.5km
7:30 - 19:00 with lots of short breaks, and 4hour siesta / storm watch at river by bottom of ascent

Despite a stormy night, and although a little gusty, the bothy provided great shelter and we slept like logs. So much so, we were very very very slow to get going this morning. Making it out eventually, we initially enjoyed a pretty walk along the river, but then it began to go down. A long and quite technical descent was tricky when lacking in energy and motivation but we slowly made it down. Eventually reaching Refugio Conangles we were ready for a drink but it was shut! So we kept hiking a little longer until we were by the river before the next ascent.

Now, given we were still thinking about yesterdays storm, you can understand why we were hesitant to go back up high again in the afternoon, when another storm was forecasted for 3pm. So, sensibly we decided to stay put, in a less exposed area and wait out the storm before deciding whether to go up later or just leave the climb for the morning. So we rested, splashed in the river, napped, and waited out that fierce storm….that never came. With our Polish friends and Dutch friend having passed us earlier, and others still passing us, we decided, at 5pm, with little cloud in the sky, to go for it.

And boy, what a climb! Some huffing and puffing occurred, as we zigzaged and zigzaged our way up, and we were grateful we had waited until later to go up for it to be slightly cooler if nothing else. Eventually reaching the top, we were met with magnificent views which made all the worries and tiredness go away, as we chose a flat spot right by the lake to settle for the night. And what a calm, warm, still night it was, with a glowing sunset sky to cook, eat and stretch with. Shattered, we slept well in our cosy spot.

Friday 12th August
Wild camp at Lac de Rius to Wild camp at Lac Obago
16km
7:30 - 18:00

This may be the best wild camp spot we’ve ever had. Waking to a stunning sunrise, we were feeling much better then yesterday, and as we had done most of the climbing last night, knew we had a relatively easy day ahead. Following the track around the lake, it then opened into an open valley with layers of mountains slowly being lit up as we walked towards them. Slowly, we headed mostly downwards and along the river which along easy path before beginning to edge side wards and up onto boulderfield again. A short but steep ascent followed, through the trees and up big rock steps, under pylons and then popping up by a huge dam, lake and Refugio Restanca; a beautiful sight.

Catching up with our Dutch friend here (and the three Polish were here too!) we enjoyed a drink and snack, before continuing on. Up and up and up we went, then down then up then down and up, leapfrogging the Polish and, after enjoying several short breaks to admire the views of all the lakes dotted between the mountains, catching our Dutch friend again for lunch; having introduced her to putting crisps in your wrap which she was now enjoying.

Knowing another potential storm was due later, we didn’t stop too long, before doing the last climb up and down. However, the storm due at 4pm decided to begin early, and as the thunder rumbled, we took no chances and put full waterproofs on straight away. Of course, this meant we began to sweat a lot quicker but at least we were protected from the rain and hail that soon followed. Thankfully, it was nowhere near as intense before and we managed to make our way safely (and very slow eh Paul) down to the next Refugio Colomers.

As expected, it was loud and busy and full here. Now, having been told by several people that wild camping is not allowed in national park areas and that they use helicopters to find and fine people, we weren’t sure what to do. However, as we were not technically in the main national park area, and without any other real option, we, along with our Dutch friend (and several others as it turns out) decided to keep on trekking to find a spot to camp. First lake no good, second lake no good (but did have a cow island!), third lake (Obago, just before the next big ascent) success! A perfect spot for two tents, overlooking the lake and mountains. A refreshing swim, with free fish foot nibble, was just what was needed to wash off the sweat, before the usual evening routine occurred with the sunset coloured sky, whilst sharing stories with Nicole. Perfecto.

Saturday 13th August
Wild camp at Lac Obago to Espot Camping Solau
16km
8 - 15:00 with lots of breaks, 20mins on descent, 20mins by waterfall, 45mins by Estany de um Sant Maurici

Enjoying the wild camp spot so much, we were again slow to get going. It was another immediate big old climb up to a col, was was surprisingly enjoyable as we quietly trekked up with music in our ears, enjoying a view (and breath) break every now and then. Reaching the top, we stared into the huge open valley infront of us, admiring the view, as we began to make our way down; as is the pattern of the Pyrenees.

This first half was very enjoyable and beautiful, but, as we lowered to the main river and dirt roads, we entered tourist zone and it quickly became very busy. Still a naturally beautiful area, it was a shame you couldn’t fully enjoy it with jeeps driving people up and down the main track, and groups of people all wanting to see the big waterfall and use the same small paths to get there. Resting by the main lake, Estany de Sant Maurici, we enjoyed some lunch (finishing off our food supplies) and some people watching, before agreeing we should get going again.

Trying to speed along the easy tourist track but with it lasting longer then expected, we rocked up into Espot (camping Solau) at 3pm, with achy feet and tired faces. Tent up, clothes rinsed and showered, we felt much better, and enjoyed a little explore of this cool town (finding some delicious crepes!) before settling at the campsite (with Nicole - our Dutch friend - opposite!) for the night.

Can you believe, over the last day or two, we’ve actually reached the half way mark of the GR11?! 32days since leaving Irun, and now 54% (kms wise) of the trail done! Wow.

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