Beaches, Blooms & Bluffs...an Atlantic Crossing


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Europe » Spain
September 20th 2018
Published: September 20th 2018
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In honor of our ancestral heritage, Christopher and I chose to undertake this Atlantic Crossing. Over 100 years ago our ancestors risked everything and with nothing but their creativity, drive and tenacity they landed on the shores of the US where they were welcomed with open arms.

We salute our ancestors and honor them. Our situation is QUITE different as we sail from Miami, Florida to Barcelona, Spain on a luxury ship in a Penthouse cabin!

Prelude



San Francisco, California, United States
Friday, April 8, 2016

Early Friday morning, before the sun awoke, the driver arrived, loaded our luggage, and we were off on yet another adventure. TSA pre-check is the ONLY way to scurry through security at the airport…..unless, of course, you are randomly selected for a "review". Poor Christopher…..it always happens to him! A full pat down. Emptied his carry-on bag. Swiped down everything with a pad….for some reason his bag came up positive for some kind of substance….am I married to a spy? How would I know? Him…NAH! BUT…..this IS the second time in two trips, the first in London last September.

Finally through security we selected a place to dine (hint: the Virgin terminal has a GREAT breakfast burrito place…..healthy and satisfying). Bellies full it was time to board the plane. I recognized a few passengers…someone from the Bay Club (as always) and a few “celebrities” from the SF Social Scene….believe it or not they flew steerage with us!! I just use their last names….Getty & Traina!

After a most uneventful flight, other than minor turbulence over Texas (government in session??…all that hot air rising from the Texas plain) we arrived safely in Ft. Lauderdale. Our hosts, Steve & Paula, greeted us with big hugs and smiles. Even though it had only been a few months since our last visit, it felt like almost a lifetime apart. Commence the celebrating!!!

Steve drove effortlessly across Florida to the gulf coast. Naples. Pelican Bay, Chateaumere, to be exact. Siamo arrivati!! We settled in and started the conversations. Joined by Ronnie later Friday evening the five of us were virtually connected at our respective hips for three days. We ate, drank, chatted and hopped in and out of the van for three days. A wonderful prelude to our Atlantic Crossing.

Monday, still connected, we all sat in the van, while Steve deftly maneuvered us from Naples to the Miami port. Have you ever driven in Miami? If you have, you know – if you haven't DON’T! We were exiting the “freeway” to enter the “expressway” (whatever) and right in front of us…as we’re driving 70 MPH a car is at a dead STOP! ON THE FREEWAY!!! Turns out she was in the wrong lane…..so rather than do the sane thing and continue driving and exit late…she stopped cold and tried to merge into the other lane of cars driving 70 MPH…not the smartest bulb in the strand! And YES….confirmed by Ronnie…it was, unfortunately, a woman.

After gathering our wits, and Steve’s deft handling of the situation, we headed towards the port. There, Christopher and I checked in, got our World Card and exited the terminal to meet up with the “gang” for lunch. Paula had found a place called Rouge, somewhere in Miami Beach. Excellent.

SO….did you know there are like a dozen Miamis?? Miami, Miami Beach, South Beach, North Beach, North Miami Beach…get the picture? Turns out the restaurant is in Miami Beach, about 7 miles from Miami, not to be confused with – oh forget it!! So off we went. As we drive along we notice the neighborhood becoming a little, shall we say grittier. WOW, there’s a lot of “texture” in this particular Miami (whichever one it is). Driving along 79th street it turns into 71st street (probably in a new Miami at this point). We find the restaurant, park in front, and decide not to leave ANYTHING visible in the van.

So, Rouge is located in a low slung strip of a building on 71st street with an empty storefront on one side and a dark Chinese restaurant a few doors down. Hmmmmmm. We walk in. The restaurant is devoid of people. It is a Monday at 1:00, but the only people in the restaurant are our server and some tall guy behind the bar who can’t stand still! Hmmmmmm. Our server seats us at a table for five, and presents us with the menu. HOLY CRAP! This place ain’t cheap! I mean expensive by New York standards. Decorated nicely, big piano in front, nice bar (only beer and wine) beautifully appointed and clean…so let’s eat! Orders placed, we saw a very thin woman come in the front door. She stopped once to kiss the restless guy (fairly passionately, I might add) and left as quickly as she came in….a few times. Hmmmm. Restless guy left, and a few minutes later returned with a plastic bag filled with something. Did he go out for lunch?? By this point we all agreed there’s a story here! What that story is, we’ll never know….but if you’d like to know our thoughts here we go:

1. Money laundering operation for the Russians

2. Human Trafficking with an enslaved woman chained to the kitchen

3. Front for prostitution

4. Terrorist front

The food arrives. It is EXCELLENT. That slave attached to the stove did a great job!

Steve drove us back to the port, thank goodness for Jane and her street by street directions, courtesy of WAZE. We said our goodbyes, hugs all around and we hopped on Riviera, our floating hotel for the next two weeks!

All Aboard!!



Miami, Florida, United States
Monday, April 11, 2016

We've sailed on Marina, the sister ship to Riviera, and all other currently floating vessels operated by Oceania (that is to say the smaller: Regatta, Insignia, Nautica). Serena sets sail in a few days, so…guess we have to sail on her eventually!! Why does life have to be so hard?

Our cabin is HUGE. We decided to splurge on this trip as the repositioning cruises tend to be at a much lower cost than other voyages. So, we thought WHY NOT?! The walk-in closet, yes….you read correctly, is big enough to sleep 2 comfortably! The bed, big and comfy, is near the bathroom which contains a separate shower stall and bath. Roomy. Beyond the bed is a sleeper sofa complete with a coffee table. The room doesn’t feel at all cluttered. At the foot of the bed is yet another table featuring 2 comfortable chairs. Plenty of counter space and plugs galore for all our electronic devices…..what did we do prior to the tablet and hand held computer we now call a phone?

Time to explore the ship. The grand staircase is more exquisite than grand. Lalique illuminated glass panels, table and chandelier. Quite impressive. The Grand Dining room is made more brilliant by thousands of illuminated Swarovski Crystals. Subtle, Riviera is not. Our crew is a diverse group of people from all over the globe representing each continent and all multi lingual. The ship is not at capacity, about 800 or so guests (the ship is capable of handling 1200). So – competition is not as fierce as some, thank goodness.

Our first night aboard, we met a lovely newlywed couple from Southern California (Ventura, perhaps?) – the second time around for each and they are SO in love. So cute. Diedre is from South Africa and Susan is from California. They both have children from previous relationships and are devoted to one another. So nice to see. We have become instant friends.

I have deduced there is no better way to relax than being on a ship. We are two days out of port and no stops until tomorrow. We each had 80 minute massages which worked some of the kinks out of our muscles, and turned us into jelly for a while. Sipping a cocktail while people watching or meeting new people only enhances the experience. The vast horizon of endless sea relaxes one more than words can describe. Suffice to say, I’m in no hurry to stop this tug! Tomorrow we arrive in Bermuda quite early in the morning where we shall overnight in port.

Beautiful Bermuda: a Wonderland in shades of Blue



Hamilton, Hamilton city, Bermuda
Thursday, April 14, 2016

Yesterday afternoon after a relaxing day on the deck, we had tea in Horizons….tough life!! While there I ran into Susan & Deirdre. They introduces us to another couple, Nigel & Don – who've been together for 42 years….must have met when they were children. Don and Nigel are from Windermere, England in the Lake District. Sounds lovely!! We spent a delightful hour together at tea discussing everything from cruising to work and then some – may I just say cruising is better than work.

After tea, they all came to see our "cabin" – all agreed - the room is well worth it! Yeah- we think so too. After our goodbyes and promises of meeting again on ship we got ourselves ready for dinner. Tonight – the Grand Dining room. They have stepped up their game in the GD! Maybe the difference from the larger to smaller ships – whatever the situation…service was EXEMPLARY. Very impressive. We each had an appetizer and main course – Christopher dined on onion soup and red snapper; I had the foie gras (meh) and red snapper. We passed on dessert.

After dinner and a brisk walk on deck, we went to the Riviera lounge for “That’s Entertainment” a musical tour of Hollywood History. Someone needs to teach these people history! The show was entertaining. Dancers wonderful, some of the vocalists were quite good. We had a great time. Afterwards we went to Horizons where we sipped sparkling water and listened to the hits from the 70’s and 80’s- DISCO!!!!!

This morning came surprisingly early, even though we got a bit of a late start – hey we’re on holiday, so why not??!! We docked in Bermuda at the Royal Dockyard. From here it’s a quick ride via the ferry to Hamilton or a 50 minute bus ride. We decided to bus it to Hamilton, and go directly to St. Georges (another bus ride and about 35 minutes more). Just as we were leaving the ship the heavens opened up and it began to rain, and just as quickly it stopped! Nothing serious. Enough to cause a few large puddles but it was over as soon as it began. My kind of rain shower. It cleared the air and reduced the humidity immediately.

We were so glad we decided to take the bus to St Georges – we got a “tour” of the island nation. I can’t believe the color of the water- so many different shades of blue and so clear you can see the bottom (depending upon the depth). So many different hues and saturations of blue – mere words can’t describe. Unlike anything I’ve seen. Beats the hell out of Hawaii in my book! Just saying. Dotting the roadside, between views of bays, open water and pink sandy beaches are cute little bungalows painted saturated colors of orange, blue, green, pink, crimson, cyan, turquoise and so on. All along the roads – I think people can identify their home by its color! Beats Hawaii in my book.

Wandering around St Georges, we do a little shopping, but buy nothing. A picture here and there and a walk around the historic center and we’re done. We decide to take the bus back to Hamilton and do some walking there before returning to the ship.

The bus ride back was just as quick and lovely. More beautiful views of bays and open seas as well as charming homes – saw a lime colored house on – wait for it…..”Lime House Way”! Wonder which came first??

In Hamilton we walked, looked for the Ferry schedule to the Dockyard and decided we’d take the 4:00 back to the ship, since we’ll have canapes and champagne waiting for us in our room (are we spoiled or what??). Don’t answer! We found a watch store – one of my greatest weaknesses…..we both covet a Jaeger-LeCoutre Reverso Duet stainless steel watch – which this store didn’t have. Dodged that bullet – but we learned there’s no tax and they are part of the Caribbean market – so the watch is ALMOST half the price than at home! Still pricey, but WOW!!! We shall return to Bermuda before buying another watch – just saying.

Walked out; shopped out; hungry; and frustrated that we couldn’t find our dream watch – it was time to return to the ship. And…who do we meet on the dock waiting for our Ferry back to the ship but Don & Nigel! We with them on the upper deck and chatted all the way back to the Royal Dockyard.

Washed up, we wait for our canapes, which arrive promptly at 5:30. Anthony opened the champagne and served our samosas and cheese plate. Quite good. He also brought us a bowl of nuts, which we made short work of in no time. I think we may have been a little hungry. This snack should hold us until dinner – tonight at Jacques we dine at 7:30. We’ve just under an hour before dinner – so I think I’ll stop typing and pick it up after dinner. I know there’s a “Deck Party” tonight on 12. Should be interesting. Tomorrow another day in Bermuda. I think we’ll wander around the area here, close to the ship.

OH…before I forget – the people of Bermuda are AMAZING! So friendly. Everyone says hi to one another. Smiles all around – what’s not to smile about?? Beats Hawaii- I’m JUST SAYING

Dinner tonight was at Jacques; the food was excellent, however the service was meh. Took forever to be served, our waiter(s) changed with every course and the sommelier was well…MEH! What can I say? I had “scallop gnocchi” – light as a feather. Christopher had a cheese soufflé. Our mains – duck for Christopher and filet for me (which was cooked perfectly). A side of sautéed vegetables rounded out our meal. The wine was Merlot, from Bordeaux – so smooth…SO SMOOTH! For dessert Christopher had the apricot and lemon sorbet, I had crepe Suzette. I was very happy with the food and wine – the service was lacking.

After dinner we left the ship to amble along the dockyard. We were able to find the glass works and clock tower mall; we will return tomorrow when the stores are open. On our way back to the ship it started to rain a little; then it came on a little stronger and soon enough we were caught in a deluge. Drenched, we clambered back to the ship dripping up the gangplank. I’ve a feeling the deck party was rained out – and indeed it was – moved into the Horizons lounge. We stayed for a bit but it was just too uncomfortable sitting there soaking wet…and the show….well…..meh! BUT…I did get to walk in the rain with the one I love…..there’s a song in there somewhere.

Blue



Hamilton, Hamilton city, Bermuda
Friday, April 15, 2016

Waking up to the rich blue waters of Bermuda is a gift; feeling grateful, not taking a single aspect of this trip for granted. How did our grandparents do it? They had nothing and probably sailed under significantly different circumstances. I applaud their courage, and thank them daily.

This cruise has been a dream come true and we're not even a week in as yet!! Bodes well, no?

We ate a quick breakfast where we decided we’d go for a walk and do some local shopping in the Royal Dockyard. We are officially "out of season" so the stores are quite empty – save for the other Riviera passengers and crew. It looks as though the shopkeepers are quite happy to see us – or perhaps they’re anticipating their own vacation and the opportunity to close for a while. Not certain. We learned that the America’s Cup will be here next summer. No wonder there are so many Oracle advertisements. He doesn’t miss a beat! They locals seem eager for the race…..it was a bust for us in SF – but so many teams opted out of the race…maybe they’ll have better luck here.

The shopping done – we bought nothing. Thought about a little bowl, but it just didn’t inspire us enough to part with any cash. Gotta make me WANT IT!! They failed. We walked back to the ship, took our place on the pool deck and waited for the relaxation to kick in. Bit by bit the knots and tangles of the past few months – which have been a whirlwind – untangle and ease up. My shoulder is doing OK, but I must stretch it more….ugh….ask me in a few months if the surgery was worth it, because now…..I’d say a big NO!

Relaxing in the shade with the beautiful blue Bermudian seas off in the distance can erase years of stress. Yes. This was a good idea. I finished my book, SPQR, a detailed history of The Roman Empire – with at least 50 pages of notes!! That’s research. My former students could learn a thing or two. I was a stickler for footnotes and documentation. SPQR done, time for something a little lighter. We like the Montalbano TV series about a cop in Sicily, so I bought a few of “his” books (The author is Andrea Camilerri). I was able to read it in an afternoon. Quite a good story and a great “cop mystery”. Now on to something of a little more substance. Alberto Moravia’s The Woman of Rome. So far so good. He does a good job of writing from a woman’s point of view.

A hot dog at the grill provides us nourishment to get us though to dinner at Polo tonight. Back to reading, it’s a tough life!! A bit more reading, then we decide to sit in the hot tub before going to the gym. Good to loosen things up before we “stress” them into operation. I stretch and work my shoulder, Christopher does an excellent cardio workout. Done with the gym, I return to the room and putter around not aware we’ve left port!! Heavy sigh as we bid adieu to Bermuda only to sail for the next five or so days to the Madeira Islands…almost a straight shot across the Atlantic. Bye Sargasso sea and your brilliant blue hues, you shall be missed. Until next time.

Time for a cocktail, or two! We’ve earned it. Hey, you think this relaxing comes easy?? First stop, Grand Bar. The Manhattans are NOT up to our standards – SO…..off to Martini’s and a REAL drink. A simple martini – with olives, noting better at the moment. While awaiting our cocktails who should pass us but the ladies, and minutes later the gentlemen!! SO…we all decide to sit together and chat, which we do for a good while. We say our goodbyes and off to Polo for dinner…albeit a little late (hey the conversation was excellent….one doesn’t mess with good conversation).

Dinner at Polo is not to be missed. Pork Belly appetizer for me, Foie Gras for Christopher paired with our French Merlot SUBLIME! Perfect pairing. Main course – we decide to share an Iberico Chop (pork chop from Spain). Unfortunately, our chef refuses to cook it pink as we prefer, so it is a little overcooked, but still has good flavor. Sides of truffle mashed potato and green beans (sounds much better in French, but I can’t spell it – SO…). Dessert time. We each had the Key Lime Pie with a butter sauce….AMAZING! Without question the BEST Key Lime pie either of us has ever consumed! Sorry Manny & Isa! This rich pie deserves the crown. Tart, rich but not heavy with a delicate layer of whipped cream on top. The cream is so thin and subtle even this whipped cream hater liked it!!

Time for a walk. The evening is warm, the breezes not overwhelming

And the sky dark with clouds. Every so often a break in the clouds reveals a star. A crescent moon. A constellation….the sky is a dramatic tapestry of light and dark, at times one is unable to determine where the sea ends and the sky begins. This is truly magic. Sufficiently sated and tired it is time for sleep! Off to bed. Tomorrow is another day.


People watching on the high seas



Hamilton, Hamilton city, Bermuda
Saturday, April 16, 2016

Throughout the night the ship gently rocked us as a mother rocks her newborn. A subtle motion which lulled us to sleep and kept us sleeping all night long. The ocean swells are about 4 to 6 feet. From the deck it looks rather small, but the effect on the pool is rather a sight to behold. The pool swells and rocks as the water sloshes from side to side. The sound is very much like a wave as it crashes against the beach a comforting soothing sound as we cross the vast ocean.

Since we're not leaving the ship for a few days the internet connection may slow and difficult – so please bear with me. The posts may be sporadic as everyone aboard fights for internet time. I’ve already tried several times today with no luck. It may even be unavailable. Not to worry. I’ll keep writing and when the Wi-Fi is available I shall do my level best to get as much posted as possible.

People watching is a sport I enjoy immensely. To some my demeanor may show a lack of interest, quite the contrary – I’m silently watching, noticing each nuance and creating a back story in my mind. It keeps me occupied and entertained.

Today is a good day to dish. We’ve been on the ship a few days. We’ve met some wonderful people, and observed some truly interesting characters. We’ll start with the characters…shall we?!

Last night while sipping a cocktail in Martini’s I noticed a beautiful blonde woman, of a certain age (she’s seen and done a lot – and we shall leave it at that). Her long blonde hair cascades down her shoulder caressing her ample saluting bosom (enhanced perhaps). She’s wearing either a Tadashi or Herve Leger ivory sheath bandage dress which looks as if it were painted on. Her makeup isn’t flawless, but not too much either – she should think about a subtle lip and eye. My opinion. Anyway…her breasts are highlighted not only by her hair, but by the application of some type of plastic ivory colored hardware placed in concentric circles…subtle it is not. I’m thinking breastplate. Her husband is a gentleman of a certain age – I don’t think this is a trophy situation as they seem to be contemporaries. He’s had no visible work done. He dresses well, but she is his accessory – clearly. She gets up from the table, her long shapely legs tanned from the sun, her painted on dress and she flips her hair from front to back with the turn of her head. As she does this a woman of a certain age, dressed in floral printed pants and a simple top, her thinning salt and pepper hair cut into a pixie shape, which is flattering for her I might add, passes our "goddess" and, not missing a beat, whips her head around to get a look at the goddess. I mean it was an ever so brief moment captured by Christopher and I both. As the second woman of a certain age turns back, she has a VERY disapproving look on her face. Christopher and I did our best to stifle our laughter. Her disapproving face spoke volumes.

On the bus to St. Georges we sat in front of a couple, also from Riviera. We gathered by his nonstop conversation that they are not married, both having failed at this august institution previously. He is a CPA, she – who knows- she could barely get a word in – mind you they were NOT talking to us – BUT to one another…I tried not to listen (oh, hell who am I kidding – OF COURSE I LISTENED)! He complained about everything. The Bermuda transportation day pass cost $19.00 for all day unlimited rides. He complained that the savings over the round trip fare was only one dollar…..not realizing he could make as many trips as he choose – since the ship was in port overnight. Bean Counter. He had his companion in tears MORE than once – over the status of their relationship, over the decorations of his house he plans to buy in Florida; “he wants his own space which he can decorate” (run lady RUN)! His idea of decoration is wall to wall shag carpeting……IN FLORIDA????? She wants him to move in with her – he hemmed and hawed and wiggled his way out by saying he needed a space for his kids to visit. They had a verbal battle which lasted the entire 90 minutes. We finally had to move. It became more of the same tedious discussion. Now you all know why I tend to be quiet in public (well…..sometimes). If someone can hear you – they will and who knows what they will share. At least TRY to be discrete in public. I’m always listening!!

I can’t give it all away on the first go round, so on with the day!! I’m off to work out and stretch my tired old shoulder. After the workout, maybe a swim and hot tub. Cocktails and dinner with the ladies tonight and that should see us through another day. Tomorrow probably more of the same relaxation!!

Some People.....



Hamilton, Hamilton city, Bermuda
Sunday, April 17, 2016

The winds have picked up to about 30 knots, which makes for an interesting ride….to say the least!! More on that later. What I really want to talk about is something that happened last night. Something I'd never witnessed before, a most disturbing, emotional experience which I hope to never witness again.

We had arranged to meet some friends for drinks before dinner in Martini’s Bar. They arrived before us and were seated by the window in a corner. Seated across from them and at the wall were an elderly couple, she quite elegant, soft grey curls framing a stoic face; he with his balding pate and wisps of grey hair – they seemed normal enough. Then I heard it. He went after his wife with such vengeance – he hissed at her not holding back his disgust "I’m not ignorant, and I am certainly smarter than you….." not a nice thing to say, but the violence and hatred in his voice was palpable. I wasn’t sure how long his diatribe had been going on. Not sure if he was drunk – it doesn’t matter. The look in her face spoke volumes. This was not the first time this bully had demeaned her either in private or in public.

Our friends had been witnessing his persistent attacks while waiting for us to arrive. SO SORRY! They knew that there was a problem with this couple, and we all decided to move to the other side of the bar (from port to starboard). One of our friends became quite quiet, clearly troubled by what was witnessed. Then the tears began to flow – clearly this had touched a very raw nerve. Admittedly moved and concerned it hit me……a victim of domestic violence. I didn’t know what to say or do. This person got up and left the area to collect themselves. I couldn’t breathe. I imagined the worse. What had happened in their past? What humiliation had been suffered at the hands of a bully? Did it come to blows? Was it strictly violent words? As if words don’t leave a scar. Actually, I think the scars left by words last much longer and are more difficult to overcome.

We talked about the situation. Feeling helpless, stupid words came out of my mouth – well, she has options, she puts up with it, she could leave….. Even I thought it was stupid, not thinking that she may not have any options. She probably has no self-esteem. I can’t imagine what she has had to endure over the years. Clearly, he feels emboldened enough to humiliate her in public with no regard for her feelings or how he looks to others. This is not a first time offender. Our friend decided they couldn’t remain silent any longer. The Bar Manager was notified. Our server was notified. The couple had left the bar. I don’t know what I’ll do if I see them again. I can’t forget his snarling face. It’s an image I’d rather not see again.

We went to dinner. The tone of the evening changed precipitously. We chose to put the events of the cocktail hour behind us and move on to brighter subjects. We laughed, we chatted and ate a delightful meal. After dinner we went to see the end of a show in the Riviera Lounge – nice jazz standards. The show over each of us exhausted, we decided to end the evening.

We all stumbled back to our room. Not because of alcohol consumed, but because of the pitch and roll of the ship. WOW!! This boat is rocking. The captain warned us that the ship would be rocking quite a lot given the winds. Oh well. On more than one occasion, it felt like an earthquake! Silly thought.

We rocked and rolled all night long. These winds are strong at 30 knots. Waves are estimated at 8 feet (according to the Captain’s announcements). Lots of activities on the ship today, but we’ve contented ourselves with reading and chatting with new found friends. We’re meeting people left and right, and receiving invitations for dinner and drinks on a daily basis!

We found a chaise on deck 14 forward and are sheltered from the wind, YAY!! The pool is sloshing about and making a lovely soothing beach sound. We shall be off to tea shortly, then a late dinner at Toscana. Must say our Butler, Antony, outdid himself with the additional reservations at the specialty restaurants!! He is taking very good care of us!!

I shall try to keep a lighter tone with these posts, but after events last night, I just had to purge the feelings. Thanks for indulging me. Stay with it, I promise more fun stuff. I’ve been saving a few characters and situations for these days at sea. Hang in there!! We have a while to go before we reach The Madeira Islands.

Before we go……WHALES!! We saw breaching whales! An amazing sight to behold. SO COOL!

Tignanello & Toscana



Funchal, Madeira Islands, Portugal
Monday, April 18, 2016

Here it is, Monday, one week into our two-week adventure across the Atlantic. Full relaxation has commenced. Recreating the feeling immediately after the massage on day two of the cruise. What's not to like about relaxing??

Dinner last night was at Toscana, one of our favorite on board restaurants. We had a wonderful meal which we enhanced with a bottle of Tignanello!! Life is good. Seated next to us was a cute couple, of a certain age, who met on a cruise and travel together. She lives in Seattle, and he lives in Pelican Bay, Naples, FL. He’s a recent retiree from the NIH and FDA – another DC transplant!! I just love that these two widowers found one another aboard ship from a brief ship board romance which has blossomed into "something" giving them exactly what they need without sacrificing their independence.

We lost yet another hour to our eastward migration! We woke up around 10 am…..missed breakfast. Not like we’d ever go hungry on this tug. We ambled over to Barista’s for a double espresso and a few mini pastries. We’ll make up for our misfortune at lunch…which was set to begin in a matter of minutes.

Rather than lunch immediately after pastries, we headed off to the Executive Lounge, located on 11 and part of our class of service…which we failed to recognize until now. DUH!! While there, we read news from around the world, better not to know. Christopher got on line with hopes of a faster connection to the internet. No such luck! Evidently people have been hoarding the bandwidth by NOT logging off!! UGH!! A little consideration people.

Lunch was on the Terrace at the fantail. Somewhat windy, but not too bad. We were on the lookout for more whales, but they eluded us. After lunch, we decided to don our swimsuits and go to the Spa Deck, forward on 14. Great Choice! Practically empty…a little wind but nothing obnoxious, and access to the huge hot tub. We both read and used the spa facilities available to us – which means the thermal hot tub and the steam or sauna. The spa tub on Riviera is QUITE different from the ones on Marina. Here the tub is long, almost as long as the pool with a bulbous out crop at one end. On board Marina the Spa deck has two round tubs. The seas were nothing like the day before, significantly calmer, but still a rolling. This rolling was amplified SIGNIFICANTLY given the deck height and narrowness of the tub. While in the tub it felt as if we were being carried away on waves. One had to be mindful of one’s head and whether one had their moth open from laughter. Just saying.

I went into the steam and sat for a while. Felt so good to sweat – maybe give my liver a chance to regroup…poor organ, I’m taking full advantage of its usefulness. Best not to abuse it. Christopher went is as I was leaving. I went back to reading. When Christopher finished his steam, we headed back to the room to change for cocktails and an early dinner.

Dinner tonight was in Red Ginger. LOVE this place!! We each had the Sea Bass….AMAZING. Nemo….look out Red Ginger is hot on your tail!! (for the Naples, FL clan). I had the fried calamari appetizer, Christopher had the spring rolls. Each so very good and we pared it perfectly with a Spanish Albarino. JUST YUM!!!

After dinner we did a little shopping. We found a nice Tissot automatic watch for an excellent price. A dressier watch with a large round face. We both quite like it. It shall be ready tomorrow as they have to remove a few links to fit our wrists. YAY!! This ship board credit thing is really, REALLY NICE!!!

Tonight’s entertainment is up in Horizons lounge on deck 15. At that level one feels the motion of the ocean. No, we weren’t drunk! We ran into Susan and Diedre, sat down and waited for the show. While waiting for the show we make plans for dinner on Tuesday. Wherever we can get it or the Grand Dining room. We shall engage Antony and have him weave his magic.

The singer, is a young guy from Oklahoma. He studied voice, but in my estimation he was either singing out of his range or he was nervous – his throat was doing all the work which is a no-no when singing. We didn’t last long. Back to the room and time for bed. OH CRAP….another hour shall be lost tonight!

When we got back to our room we noticed a note on our door inviting us to lunch in the Grand Dining room at noon. We accepted the invitation!! Graham and his wife Marie invited us to join them along with their friends Greg & Debbie. First…..Lunch in the grand Dining room?? Who knew?? Neither of us had contemplated the notion nor even considered that the Grand Dining room was open for lunch! OK…we’re ON!

If it's Tuesday...oh never mind.....



Funchal, Madeira Islands, Portugal
Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Well, we woke up late again. 10am breakfast is done. Well, we are lunching in a few hours, so Barista's it is! While there we chatted with a number of people. Christopher and I, who are perennial wallflowers, rarely engage in conversation with "strangers" – but on board ship it is quite a different story. We’ve met SO MANY wonderful people. We chatted again with the couple we met at Toscana. She was in love with my shirt, so very colorful….she wanted to use the shirt as a model for her iris painting. I’m guessing she likes color as much as I. We met another gentleman, a doctor from Kansas. He is retired, but decided to get certified in obesity treatment, and is considering a part time consult practice in weight management. We took his card!!

We received a call from Antony. Dinner reservations for Toscana tonight for 4. We notified the ladies, brushed our teeth and left for lunch. It’s a tough life, but someone has to do it…might as well be us.

We met Marie & Graham and Greg & Debbie at the Grand Dining room. We were seated at a table for six in the back of the restaurant with an amazing view. Meals ordered, Christopher and I had an AMAZING tortellini dish, rich and satisfying. Graham asked Christopher to select a wine – we had been discussing wines etc…SO…he ordered a Joseph Phelps ’12 Cabernet. To our horror they were out of the 12, would a 13 do? Would it do….DAMNED RIGHT IT WILL DO!! Such a luscious wine. Graham surprised us by treating all to the wine. Everyone loved it. YAY…..we learned that Canada has a very industrious wine region near them in the Niagara area. Who knew? Might have to check it out one of these days. Let’s see we have invitations to: Niagra, Southern California, The Lake Country in England, Seattle and Pelican Bay…… Well, we know we can get to Pelican Bay, but we also know where we’ll be staying! Right?

After our 2+ hour lunch we part ways. We pick up the watch, which fits perfectly, go back to the room, change and head out to the pool deck for a little R&R. Why must life be so hard?!

On the deck, we arrange to meet our dinner guests for cocktails. Christopher heads off to the gym (good boy) and I’m off for a stretch and a steam. Back in the room, we realize the Captain’s cocktail party invitation is for tonight (OOPS)….someone (who shall remain nameless CTP) read the invitation wrong. The cocktail party is for tonight, and it starts in five minutes. I don’t think I’ve ever seen Christopher get ready so fast! We arrive oat Horizons for the party, find Graham and Marie sit and visit long enough to make our way through most of the champagne in our glasses and head downstairs to meet the ladies for dinner.

Dinner, once again, was OUTSTANDING! I tried all new things on the menu as did Christopher. Dinner, conversation and company were sublime. I started with the fried calamari – not the least bit greasy, then had the spinach linguini with duck ragu, for my main, I had the Veal Scaloppini al limone…a little tough, but good. Dessert was panna cotta – not as good as Christopher’s. We finished the Tignanello and I moved on to a Sangiovese which was quite nice. Finished the dinner with a grappa – OH…my poor liver.

The show tonight was Broadway Bound…show tunes!! BUT….they selected the most obscure show tunes out there! I, who knows music theater, knew only one song….and they ruined it!! AHHHHH. I’ve said this before – one doesn’t cruise on Oceania for the entertainment. Food, yes, entertainment, not so much. I’ll go with the food any day.

After the show, which we all stayed for until the bitter end, we waited for the elevators to “calm down” the theater was packed!! We ended up talking about all kind of diverse subjects….and made every effort to solve the world’s problems. If ONLY they’d listen to us.

Time for bed. Oh, and in case you’re interested…..we lose another damned hour tonight!

Age & Glasses of Wine Should Never be Counted!



Funchal, Madeira Islands, Portugal
Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Um….we woke up at 10:30am. That's all I have to say about that.

Today, we have scheduled Italian Wine tasting at 1:30 in Toscana. We were advised not to eat lunch as there would be food to accompany the wines. Hmmmm dilemma, no breakfast, no lunch and then wine….might prove to be a little dicey. We finally rolled out of the cabin between 11:30 and noon and discussed our options. Executive lounge might have something for us to nosh on before we tipple some Italian wines. Um….not so much. Just cookies. Yogurt removed. Up to Barista’s we go.

Barista’s had a selection of cold mini sandwiches, so we selected a protein rich roast beef sandwich to go with our double espresso and canelés. Good choice. We went for a walk around the deck and decided to go down to the Ambassador Lounge to book our next cruise. Yes…we’re hooked! We’ve drunk the Kool-Aid – and we LIKE IT! Closed, opens again at 3 – we shall return.

We returned to the room, did a few maintenance things and opened our books, as we had an hour until our tour of Italian wines. I’m reading "The Woman from Rome" by Moravia – and loving it. What an interesting point of view, the story of a woman written expertly by a man, not unlike Memoirs of a Geisha (only YEARS before hand). Highly recommend it.

OK…time has come to get ourselves to Toscana for our tasting. We are greeted with a glass of Prosecco. The tables are set up with 5 glasses of wine at each setting. Christopher and I find a spot behind the “gang” from lunch yesterday and are READY to start our experience. The five wines selected for us are:

1. Nipozzano Riserva, Chianti Classico DOCG

2. Alfredo Prunotto, Barbaresco DOCG (100%!N(MISSING)ebbiolo)

3. Silvio Nardi, Brunello di Montalcino, 2008 (100%!S(MISSING)angiovese)

4. Magari IGT Super Tuscan 2011 (50%!M(MISSING)erlot, 25%!C(MISSING)abernet, 25%!C(MISSING)ab Franc)

5. Bolla Valpolicella, Amarone DOCG 2011 (60%!C(MISSING)orvina, 35%!R(MISSING)ondinella, 15%!M(MISSING)olvina)

LOVED the Brunello. The super Tuscan need more time, the Amarone was delightful. The Nebbiolo was a little light, but nice a good table wine perhaps, and the Chianti, is well, Chianti. I learned that a Nebbiolo can lay down for about 50 years and still be a drinkable beautiful wine. Who has that kind of time?? Thought of the D6PSG while we were sipping the various wines; oh how they all would have LOVED this experience!!

The nibbles were an excellent pairing, but hardly enough to substitute for lunch. I’d rather not eat at the moment, so we shall instead settle for Tea later in the day. At this point it is well after 3, and the Ambassador Lounge is open, so we decide to book our next cruise. We are booked and saved a bit of money as well as earning a BUNCH of extra perks!! LOVE the incentives. Smart business. Caribbean, here we come.

Time for Tea. Horizons is nearly empty. I’ve not seen it this empty at Tea Time. Did we miss something? Not like anyone can get off the ship. Oh well – less competition for us. A few savory sandwiches and a scone should suffice. I added a Victoria Sponge – but didn’t finish – I like mine better. Mary Berry would be quite displeased with the Oceania version!!

Tea done, back to the room for a respite before our 7:00 wine pairing dinner at La Reserve. Now – STOP counting the wine glasses!!!

Dinner….WELL! DINNER!!! OMFG….What a dinner!!

We were escorted to tonight’s dinner by Antony, our Butler. He insisted on taking us upstairs and introducing us to our hosts. He’s done a wonderful job throughout the cruise. Upon checking in, we were given a glass of champagne and shown to seats on the deck outside La Reserve. This is our “cocktail” greeting. We sat and immediately introduced ourselves to Carol and Jim (easy to remember his name)! Then Tony and Carole joined us. They arrived from the Captain’s party, which we attended last night. Tony was a little worse for drink. Loud, perhaps hard of hearing, but the slurring of his speech on occasion led me to believe he’d had one more of his Vodka & Tonic’s than he should have consumed. Other guests joined and we were all chatting with one another, even good old Tony.

The glass doors parted, and we were encouraged to take our seats at assigned tables. We sat at the opposite end from Tony & Carol (not that it made any difference). Carol & Jim sat next to us…thank goodness! Let the meal begin….

Our Chef (Italian) introduced himself to us and reviewed the menu course by course and our Sommelier reviewed each wine paired with each course. What follows is the meal in order with each wine:

1. Perlita Caviar d’Aquitaine with Cream of Sea Urchin, Paired with Domm Ruinart Brut Rose, Reims, France 2002.

Notes: a fresh, elegant rose with just a hint of strawberry and cherry flavors, while the citrus and smoke notes dominate. Very refined and well integrated, with a firm aftertaste of cherry and spice. A delicate champagne that pairs perfectly with the Caviar and Urchin Coral (oh…and the urchin was topped with 24 karat gold leaf)!

2. Hoisin Sauteed Duck Foie Gras with Pecan and Cucumber Salad over Riesling infused Watermelon, Paired with Donnhoff Tonschiefer Trocken QBA Riesling, Nahe, Germany 2012

Notes: Full-bodied, mineral Riesling wine with a fruit nose of great finesse and classic acidity. An elegant match that enhance the sophisticated Watermelon salad together with the Foir Gras. Must admit – I really LOVED this wine, and I’m not a Riesling fan.

3. Culatello Gran Riserva and Smoked Ricotta in Tricorne Ravioli with Pumpkin Veloute, Paired with Albarino Valdamor Barrica, Rias Baixas, Spain 2010

Notes: A crisp and refreshing wine with citrus fruit, pear, and peach flavors. It has a medium-body, bright fruit character and subtle floral aroma. This was the BOMB!!!! This was a lick you plate clean dish, but we just used our lovely bread to soak up every last drop of the pumpkin veloute. The wine was a perfect accompaniment.

4. Butter Poached Brittany Blue Lobster with Vegetable Nage and Beetroot Cress, paired with Shafer Chardonnay Red Shoulder Ranch, Carneros, Napa Valley, California, USA 2012

Notes: Clean, crisp and flinty, with green apple, lime, quince and spicy hazelnut notes that are pure and focused, gaining depth on the finish. Good…not knock my socks off – but good.

5. Seared Kobe Beef Sous Vide with Valrhona Sauce, Franck’s Mashed Potatoes and Edamame Beans, paired with Amarone della Valpolicella Fumanelli DOC Classico 2008

Notes: Intense garnet red. Perfume of ripe fruits with a hint of small red berries blending into each other in a sweet vanilla flavored note, lightly spicy with nutmeg. Full bodied and warm on the palate, soft and perfectly balanced. OK….THIS WAS OFF THE HOOK!!! Had a second glass of this wine. AMAZING!!! The beef was cooked to perfection, and the potatoes are 75%!b(MISSING)utter and 25%!p(MISSING)otato! Didn’t eat the edamame…probably a GMO product!

6. Roasted Vacherin Mont d’Or with Grape and Truffle salad, paired with Delas Freres, Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette, Northern Rhone, France 2012

Notes: Silky and alluring, with lovely mocha and espresso aromatics followed by lush black cherry, fig paste and crushed currant notes. Fleshy and pure on the finish, with solid underlying minerality; It will accompany the Vacherin Mont d’Or with elegance. This was quite good, the cheese was baked into a puff pastry shell; soft, creamy and crispy. Nice pairing. Didn’t eat the salad – all I smelled was raw garlic. Pass.

7. Berry Consommé with Lime Ginger Mascarpone Ice Cream and Sesame Crisp, paired with Moscato di Trani, Puglia Italu 2008

Notes: This exquisite and rare Moscato takes its name from Trani, a truly exceptional vinicultural zone in the provence of Bari. The Moscato di Trani is made almost exclusively from Moscato Bianco grapes. That variety is extremely ancient and originated in the eastern half of the Mediterranean basin. Moscato di Trani is wine of intense amber golden color, aromas of apricot, honey, quince apple and toasted hazelnuts; balsamic notes at the end. Vitrating taste of citrus fruits and their corresponding acidity. Liked the ice cream – took one sip of the vine and passed. WAAAAYYYY to sweet for me.

For the finale they brought a tray of Marzipan covered Amarena Cherries, one per person…could have eaten a pound! So good, but really sweet. OK….maybe not a pound.

And that, my friends, was our dinner at La Reserve! I must saw we had excellent dining partners at our end of the table, met some interesting people and had a wonderful meal. If you plan a trip on the larger ships of Oceania, you MUST promise me you’ll do this dinner. We had the Connoisseur Menu, there are three. I have NO idea what’s on the other two – might be available on their website.

Oh, yes….Dinner lasted over 3 hours!

Rain, Rain GO AWAY!



Funchal, Madeira Islands, Portugal
Thursday, April 21, 2016

Funchal, Madeira Islands, Portugal

Last night was NOT a good one for me. Maybe it was the 3 hour meal, or the wine, or eating so late. Not positive, but I had one restless night, and did Christopher. When I was asleep, he was awake and vice versa. The alarm was set for 8am, so we would be able to hit the ground running, get breakfast, novel concept, and see the City and partake of its charms.

I got in the shower, did my morning ablutions and while drying off noticed my torso was completely covered in red spots. Big, not painful raised red blotches. My arms, back, chest, neck and chin were ablaze in red spots. CORTISONE CREAM!!! Where are you????? Christopher has a prescription cream for a skin condition, which helped somewhat. We decided when we go into town, we'll pick up some cortisone cream.

I threw the drapes open. Overcast. Dark…..it is going to rain. No doubt. The room has no umbrella, but we hate to carry them anyway. A little rain never hurt anyone, and how long would it last. It wasn’t raining yet. We walked across the pool deck, it started to sprinkle. Breakfast at Terraces, and the rain stopped. YAY!!!

Within 10 minutes of leaving the ship, it started to rain. We decided to keep on with our plans: visit old town, the market and go for a long needed walk. Just as we arrived at the Mercado, the heavens opened their flood gates and it began to pour. I couldn’t see 5 inches in front of me. We ran into the market, along with thousands of our closest friends to get out of the storm. No one at the front of the crowd was smart enough to filter into the market. WTF PEOPLE!! MOVE! Some German tourists from the ship docked next to us were admiring the flowers while the hoards of people trying to get in were stuck in a downpour – being the gentleman I am, I used my best German and PUSHED my way through….as they do. Done. Don’t mess with me, particularly when I’m wet and cold. I was wet and cold.

We wandered around the market, quite impressive. A variety of unusual fruits, lots of lace and embroidery shops, a beautiful fish market, spices, and the requisite tchotchkes no one needs but EVERYONE, but us, stops to view! We stayed in as long as possible. The rain cleared somewhat, so since we were already wet, we pressed on towards old town.

Walking along the narrow cobbled streets of Old Town reminded me a lot of Lisbon. I have a thing for doors, and many of the doors were painted uniquely; various themes, styles etc. I didn’t take any pictures as they weren’t my style, but very interesting to see. We walked up to the fort and beyond where we found a church. We entered the church to avoid another downpour which only lasted a minute. The church was quite dark – we really couldn’t see anything, so after the downpour stopped, we left. We decided to head back to the ship. Had to make a pit stop back at the Mercado, THEN head back to the ship. It never stopped raining.

Walking back to the ship, we decided to take a different route, through the "new town" wherein is located the Cathedral. Didn’t go in. There was a mall across the street – we went in. Not much of a mall, I must say, but we weren’t getting wet, so a plus in my book.

Back on the streets and walking into the wind with the rain beating on our faces was no fun at all. At this point my shoes, socks and feet are soaked, my jacket is soaked as it my shirt and undershirt. No part of me is dry. I’m in shorts. Smart? Well, yes actually because pants would have been soaked, heavy and taken forever to dry – at least when I get back on board the ship, I can dry my legs; and try to get warm. I’m shaking as is Christopher. This stopped being fun about an hour ago.

FINALLY…back on ship. We practically run to the stateroom, well we run as fast as any drowned human soaked through to the skin can move – which actually isn’t all that fast…but we are trying. Clothes off, hung to dry. Christopher rubs me down with cortisone cream, the blotches are still there.

Dry clothes at last. Beginning to get the feeling back in my fingers and toes we head off to lunch. Terraces. Back to the room, where Christopher is now reading, and I’m writing. The clouds have now moved down the mountain and have completely enshrouded the city in a blanket of white. We literally can’t see much beyond our veranda. We had hoped to get up the funicular – what’s the point – nothing to see. Oh well, next time. The city of Funchal is quite charming.

How much relaxation, can one person take?



Funchal, Madeira Islands, Portugal
Friday, April 22, 2016

Yet another late morning; hey why not? We're on vacation, and have no schedule….and we’re at sea. I must say, these sea days are QUITE enjoyable; so relaxing. I think I could do a crossing/repositioning cruise every year, as long as there are diverse stops. I truly enjoy cruising, and we have met SO MANY wonderful people this time out.

Today we spent most of the day at the pool. I even went swimming – I was surprised by my range of motion with my left shoulder. Maybe the exercises are helping. The pain comes and goes, and will take time – but my patience is wearing thin. Big Surprise!! Me and the "P" word- not an easy match!!

I finished the Moravia book, which I enjoyed immensely. Why do Italian narratives typically end badly? The idea of a happy ending in Italian literature is a myth, perhaps?? Triste!! Christopher is currently reading the book and also likes very much. I think my next book, after returning home, will be the Moravia that my cousin Norma gave me – in Italian!! We shall see….

Not much to report today – didn’t really do all that much, because the cruise is winding down and we tend to become a bit pensive as the trip comes to an end.

We ate at the Grand Dining Room at a table for two with the MOST amazing view!! We were at the back in a corner with the entire dining room to my right, and a picture window to my left. What could be better – perfect for people watching. We made our selections, and began indulging in yet another wonderful meal. Shortly after we began eating, a nice couple were seated next to us. They are both from California, Carmel & Monterey to be exact!! Bert & Marie are charming and so nice. Easy to chat with and quite interesting. Marie is a retired school teacher, Bert is a Real Estate Broker, and works when he desires…..must be nice! I get the feeling they’re not married! I’m finding a trend here – unmarried couples who travel together and may or may not have a relationship. I’m guessing they don’t marry because of social security and pension considerations. Good for them!!!

With dinner finished, we decide to “go for a walk”. It’s a beautiful evening and the sun is starting a dramatic descent into the Atlantic. The sky is crimson, with hints of grey and pink – so dramatic. The crimson turns orange then yellow as the sun continues its descent. No green flash tonight, oh well!

While watching the sun fall into the ocean, we noticed Nigel & Don also out for a walk. We chatted a bit, then noticed the moon rising over the bow of the ship. The moon seemed HUGE from our perspective, shining bright orange as it began its ascent in the vast navy blue sky. From time to time the moon was hidden by clouds and then would peek through wisps and finally made its appearance big and bright in the sky. Just beautiful.

The seas were smooth as glass. The cool air of the evening turning into the chill of night was a bit too much for us, so we decided to retire early. Tomorrow is a BIG day! BUCKET LIST Item number 3!! GIBRALTAR!

Bucket, Schmucket.....WE'RE HERE!!!!!



Gibraltar, United Kingdom
Saturday, April 23, 2016

We woke up early this morning, to take advantage of the ENTIRE day!! We weren't going to let a minute pass without doing exactly what we wanted, when we wanted. We have NO idea what awaits us, but the anticipation is almost too much to bear.

I threw open the drapes, hoping to see "the rock". Imagine my disappointment, when all I saw was a petroleum plant! Africa or Spain? I don’t know! HEY…we’re on the PORT side which, by definition, means we should be facing the port…RIGHT? Guess not. UGH…not only are we looking onto a petroleum plant, but the ship is bunkering, so I have to close the veranda door to avoid the fumes. Oh well, I’ll get to the bottom of this….

Up to breakfast we go. Terraces. AND….there it is!! With the sun rising behind it? WTF??? I’m SO CONFUSED by this point. Clearly, we are turned around. We ate our breakfast with a view of the rock and planned our day. I got a chocolate covered doughnut, and eagerly bit into it with anticipation only to almost spit it out in the same moment. INEDIBLE! The damned doughnut was fried in oil previously used to fry onions!! ROOKIE MISTAKE!!! I expect more from Oceania! This WILL be documented in my comment card! I had to get some more fruit to get the onion and oil taste out of my mouth. SO GROSS!

OK…here we go. It’s a beautiful day. Nice sun about 70 degrees and no breeze. Perfect. I have NO idea what to expect, but what I see is beyond my understanding of Gibraltar. I thought this was strictly a defense point for the UK. There’s a city, more of a village actually. The “high” street runs through the center of town and leads to the cable car which will take us up to the rock. Our route through town leads us past many, MANY cabbies vying for our attention and negotiating for a ride up the mountain. We decide to take the cable car and do it on our own. We really only want to be on the rock, and see the monkeys. The stores are starting to open, and all have signs welcoming RIVIERA, reminding us of the “tax free” status of Gibraltar. We decide to do any “shopping” after we see the rock!! We have our priorities!!

We have arrived at the cable car. Purchase our tickets and chat with another couple from the ship. He has the most interesting sun glasses!! We’ve both commented on them and decide to share our feeling with him. He bought them on eBay – copies of a French design, paid next to nothing. Hmmmmmmm. Perhaps not – he mentioned he’s had to get a few as they break easily. At which point does one realize cheap knockoffs or counterfeit merchandise isn’t worth it?? AND…..these counterfeiters use slave labor!! No thank you!!

Siamo arrivati!!! We have arrived! THIS IS IT! As soon as we exit the car, we see the “apes”. So cute. So fast. So mean, if you’re not careful. These animals have absolutely NO FEAR! They are quite comical and bold as they go about their “morning ablutions” and eat their breakfast!! Amusing.

We climb to the top using some stairs which remain from a former garrison of some kind. At the top, with NO RAIL, I must admit it feels a little “much” – one wrong step, and one of us is a widower!! I remove my prescription sun glasses because I have to move my head rather than my eyes to get around. I’m a little unsure of my footing, so better safe than sorry! It is all so beautiful. The view is SPECTACULAR. One side is the Mediterranean, the other is the Atlantic. Behind us is Africa, in front of us is Spain. SO COOL!!! This is why we choose THIS crossing……and well because it was on one of the larger ships!!

We take a bunch of pictures. We visit with a few of the “apes”, and decide it’s time to descend the rock. We spent well over an hour on top taking it all in. We have to admit, this is truly a once in a lifetime experience.

On our way back to the ship we run into Marie & Bert, who are contemplating their next move. We URGE them to go to the top. They weren’t convinced, but when we tell them how easy it is via cable car, they decide to go. I hope they really do!!!

Back on the ship, we have a little lunch and change into our bathing suits for yet another relaxing day at the pool. A little swimming, a little reading, a little hot tub never hurt anyone, right?!

This day…THIS DAY… I just can’t get any higher.

The End is Nigh



Gibraltar, United Kingdom
Sunday, April 24, 2016

No change in time. No more losing an hour's sleep…..SO…..why did we sleep until 10am once again?? I’m guessing it’s because we are relaxed and just making the most of it – why not? This, of course, means we’ve missed breakfast. Oh well. Lunch it is!! First we’ll get our kick from the double Illy espresso as pulled by the most capable of Baristas, so much fun using our Italian on board ship. Even better – they understand us!!

Sipping our espresso at the bar with a view of the pool and the sea – it really, REALLY doesn’t get much better than this; pinching myself and thinking how very fortunate I am to be able to take this journey with Christopher. I can’t fathom how our ancestors made this same crossing on their way to "the new world’ with little to nothing in their pockets, and if they were lucky a suitcase. Here we are sleeping in a comfortable bed, sipping espresso and dining on the most magnificent food at sea. This is a piece of cake compared to their crossing!

We leave Baristas and run into Nigel & Don. We chat for a while….I mean a while…..like maybe an hour or more. So, we haven’t eaten anything, have had 2 double espressos – oh, did I forget to mention that? And we are HUNGRY! When Nigel suggests going down for luncheon, we jump at the opportunity.

Strolling through The Terraces, we review the lunch offerings and find a table on the fantail – might as well enjoy the view while dining, no? Yes. Since this is the last day, we best finish our open bottle of wine. Summoning the sommelier we give her our cabin number and request the red wine we opened last evening in the Grand Dining room. She returns with 2 open bottles with our room number. Odd. THIS explains what happened the other night in Toscana….Our bottle of Sicilian white had a LOT more wine in it than we got from Toscana – I’m guessing the sommelier couldn’t find our original bottle and just put our cabin number on an open bottle of wine. Didn’t cost us anything extra, so no big deal – but now 2 bottles of wine for lunch? I don’t think so….but guess what......

This is our last day on board Riviera. I’m sad. I’m excited to see Barcelona, one of my favorite cities, but I’m sad that we’re disembarking tomorrow. I’m rather used to the size of our cabin, I’m rather used to not having to clean or cook anything. I’m even used to the whole “butler" thing. I’m telling you – my goal for our first year of retirement – an around the world cruise!! HAHA….like we’ll ever have an opportunity to retire….maybe I should start playing the lottery. Heavy sigh.

Back in the room, we change for a day at the pool. As we get on the pool deck, whom do we run into but Graham and Greg. OK….this is IT. If we are all going to get together, it is today or nothing! SO, we settle on cocktails at 5:00 in Martini’s for all eight of us. Done. Now we need to get the plans to Susan and Deirdre. Done. FINALLY…..we can get to our usual spot on deck, in the shade, open our eReaders and get to reading – I’m on a new book – Pulitzer prize winner from 2012 – loving it. Christopher is enjoying reading the Moravia. We switch back and forth between reading, swimming and relaxing in the hot tub.

While in the tub, who should show up but Marie (of Bert & Marie). She is so excited to share her joy with their experience of Gibraltar. She thanks us profusely for suggesting they go to the top, and is so grateful, she and Bert would like to invite us to dinner in the Grand Dining room. Oh – we need another week on this ship!! Expressing our deep thanks and gratitude with their offer, we explain that we have both cocktail and dinner plans for the evening. Guess we’ll have to sail with them again at some other time!! Disappointed, Marie thanks us again and wishes us well. She and Bert have decided to remain on board; the deal is just TOO GOOD to pass up! DAMN…..we have GOT to figure this out!!

If poolside reading were ever an Olympic sport, I’d be a gold medal winner! I have it DOWN! Read, swim, read, hot tub, sip a milkshake (only did this twice: today: strawberry…..pistachio was better) read some more all while remaining in as much shade as possible. Well, all but the pool and tub excursions – no shade available there. I’ve read two books, finished one more and started another. Do I like to read…you betcha!! Am I doing my best to avoid the sun? You betcha. One problem – I’ve focused on my face, while ignoring the rest of my body. I’m in the shade….does that help?? I’m thinking it doesn’t but hoping for the best.

Cocktails!!!!!!

When we arrive in Martini’s, Graham has assembled a table with a sofa and several chairs around a large ovoid table. Excellent. We are joined by everyone in a matter of minutes – gotta love a prompt group!! We all place our Happy Hour orders and get to chatting. Boy…can we talk….about anything and everything. From Trump to sexual attraction – no subject is taboo; all as we get to know one another better. We clearly all get along and it is quite a nice way to spend an evening, too bad it all ends so soon. Ugh….I HATE the last day on ship, at least we are making the most of this day.

Deirdre, Susan, Christopher and I say our goodbyes to Graham, Marie, Debbie & Greg and head off to dinner at Red Ginger. SEA BASS!!!!!!! Dinner was made all the better by wonderful conversation; I think we sat at our table for a few hours – as it should be.

Sadly, we say our goodbyes with plans to meet in the morning, and maybe share a cab to our respective hotels. Back to the room to pack….at least it is easier to pack when going home than leaving home. Either way, packing sucks – just saying.

Time for bed as we have an EARLY morning. The luggage is out in the hall. Cabin looks empty. My heart is full but slowly breaking; goodbyes suck.

The Charm and Beauty of Barcelona is Intoxicating


Where we stayed



Hotel Ohla Barcelona - Via Laietana 49, Barcelona, SpainI rated this place 5/5 - World Class Hotel!This is, without question, one of my FAVORITE world hotels!
Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain and Canary Islands
Monday, April 25, 2016

Dear LORD it is early!! We have to be off the ship by 8:45am. Oh, if only we could continue. I'm thinking since Oceania had to re-route Riveria, many people cancelled their voyage. The original itinerary was for Riviera to sail from Barcelona to Istanbul. With the situation in Turkey as it is Oceania, in their wisdom, chose to eliminate Turkey from all itineraries going forward – so very, VERY sad. I’m SO glad we went last year. With the change and cancellations, Oceania was offering current cruisers a HUGE savings to continue on to Athens. I know they shall have a wonderful time, but find it sad that they’ll miss Ephesus and Istanbul.

Breakfast is fast, at least we made it!! Can’t find the ladies anywhere. Oh well, we’ll wait and see. We decide to wait for our exit time in Martinis. While there, we overhear a conversation had with two couples seated across from us. They were, in fact, seated where we were last night with the gang of eight. One couple, married for over 60 years, were chatting with a younger couple – both couples from New Jersey and just meeting one another at the last minutes of the cruise….happens every time! The wife of the older gentleman was in a wheelchair. They shared that in the middle of the Atlantic, she suffered total kidney failure!! OMG! She lost a kidney years ago in an automobile accident, was feeling fine before the trip and BAM….total failure between Bermuda and Funchal! How frightening is that?? He said, laughingly, that he’d have to get a job as a Wal-Mart greeter to pay the bill, but he was so grateful that the ships doctor was able to save his wife. She looked a little puffy, but other than that, I would have thought she had a problem with mobility as so many other guests on board ship. Good to know there’s a great medical team on board ready for many different emergencies!!!

Still can’t find Deirdre nor Susan – oh well. Time to exit and there’s NO waiting any longer. Off the ship we get some cash, gather our luggage and hail a cab. Hotel OhLa here we come!!

Arriving at the hotel, giddy with anticipation, we’re in Barcelona once again! I love this city. I love this Hotel. I can’t WAIT to get out and about. We register, get luggage receipts, settle everything and learn the room won’t be available for a while. No big deal. We decide to take a chance and head over to the hotel where Deidre and Susan have booked their stay. Directions. Map. Off we go!

The walk to the hotel took almost an hour. Never got lost, it was just a little farther than we anticipated. It feels SO GOOD to walk!! After 2 weeks of walking in circles on the deck this is a welcomed change. We make it to the hotel, check with the front desk, call the room and surprise them both. We’re HERE!! Can’t avoid us!! We go to the room and all decide to visit at a local coffee shop so they can get a bite – they didn’t make it to breakfast on the ship. After a brief tour of the hotel – nice. We find a coffee shop at the corner. Located across the street from the University, the place is PACKED with young computer toting students between class. We locate a table, stake our claim as they cue up for some sustenance and caffeine.

We chat some more – you’d think we’d have run out of things to say by now…but no! Not us. We end up chatting for a while longer, their meal finished they head off to the hotel to await their friends arrival from England – longtime friends of Deirdre’s. We decide to grab a tapas lunch ourselves and make our way to our favorite location – Cuidad Condal – or Cuitat Comtal – depending upon your language of choice, Spanish or Catalan.

We found this place on our first visit to Barcelona, and just fell in love with their menu and service. We arrived at noon the bar was empty. By 12:15, the place was PACKED – and most of the clientele was Spanish (or Catalan) – this is a VERY good sign. We’d only been here for dinner, lunch here is a first. Oh, we’ll be back – no question!!

We were overwhelmed with choices. Everything looked so fresh and inviting. The octopus caught my eye. Christopher wanted the Patatas bravas – fine with me. Some jamon and that should be enough for a light lunch. We selected a very dry chardonnay and ate every bite. We forgot that the patatass bravas comes doused in a garlic aioli! UGH! We’re going to suffer for that mistake!!

Sated, the room not yet ready we decide to go up to the hotel roof and wait the last few minutes for our room to be available. FINALLY, around 2pm (which was the same time as last visit) our room was ready. Room 114, back of the hotel off the main street (YAY) and quite nice, as expected. We unpack, freshen up, brush our teeth, gargle to get the garlic taste out of our mouth and hit the pavement.

We walked through the Gothic quarter towards the Yacht Harbor, along the beach through Barceloneta almost as far at the Frank Gehry fish. Deciding to turn around, we headed towards the W Hotel. Along the way, we pass many people enjoying the strand. Some have built sand castles with working fountains…NO REALLY! Windsurfers catching the breeze while surfers ride the waves caused by these same winds – no matter the activity, everyone both young and old are thrilled to be outdoors enjoying the sun and sand. It isn’t hot and the wind isn’t too strong. UNTIL….we arrive at the W. GOOD GRIEF! We can barely walk as the winds slip down the sleek side of the hotel and confront us head on. There’s a ship shaped building in front of the hotel – turns our it is the World HQ of Desigual. I don’t understand that brand – but I like the architectural design of their headquarters.

Tapas are Freedom



Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain and Canary Islands
Tuesday, April 26, 2016

We are SO Excited!! Dinner tonight – TICKETS! Each and every time we've been to Barcelona we've not been able to enjoy this restaurant. The first three times we were in Barcelona on the day they were closed, or we were overbooked and unavailable….this time we PLANNED!! The fourth time is the charm. We specifically extended our stay so we could finally enjoy the dining experience. More on that later!

A restful night's sleep was most welcomed, didn’t have any reentry issues…yet. There is a rather interesting noise I’m hearing…it’s a three note string. Same three notes in succession. I ask Christopher who in the HELL is practicing a trumpet at this hour…after he recovers from his hysterical laughter (dude…I am Serious) – he tells me it’s probably the freight elevator, located across the hall behind a door, which really, REALLY needs some WD40!! Well…maybe….he might have a point. Still sounds to me like a really bad trumpet player practicing. I’m reminded of my eldest brother practicing the same guitar riff from Cream’s It’s Getting Near Dawn…..OH MY GOD JUST PLEASE STOP!!! I can’t take it any longer. I digress.

Calm now, we remove ourselves from the room to get some breakfast, because one can’t last too long without eating when in Barcelona! The hotel breakfast buffet is typically European. A lovely selection of Jamon Iberico, cheeses, breads, yogurt, cereal, granola, fresh fruit and pastries – we make our selection and order coffee. The coffee here is to DIE FOR!!!! So rich and full bodied. I love a good coffee – as long as it isn’t bitter. I don’t do bitter or burnt, are you listening Starbucks??? Well – I don’t frequent that despicable place which has destroyed the coffee industry worldwide in any event. I LOVE that in Italy if you order a latte, you get milk. Bitch, you deserve it!! People…not every coffee house uses the same "language" as Starbucks. GET OVER IT! I digress.

Time to get out and EXPLORE. Are we going to Girona? Are we going to take a wine tour? Are we going to wander around Barcelona and just see what happens? BINGO!! We haven’t been to the Boqueria as of yet – so off we go, avoiding the Rambla – so as to avoid the THRONGS of people. The Boqueria is PACKED. We wander a bit, feeling overwhelmed, we leave. We have been by the same shoe store – whose name I can’t recall – but we BOTH love their shoes and know they have a presence on line…and I STILL can’t remember their name! Damn.

While walking along towards the shoe store we are distracted by a window display of leather coats and jackets. NICE! Solsona Pell 1932. We enter. HUGE mistake! I mean HUGE MISTAKE! He saw us coming, and we must have had "we will buy" clearly emblazoned on our foreheads. We didn’t get out of there for HOURS!!!! We settled on 2 coats each, both made to measure. Both custom. Both GORGEOUS and not in the least bit overpriced. SO EXCITED….um, what did we just do?? The Split hide (NOT Shearling – weighs less than half of a shearling coat) was made for Brioni Winter 2017 – believe me when I tell you we didn’t pay a Brioni price. Not even CLOSE! In fact, we got all 4 for less than the price of one. And we got some cherry liquor and nuts to boot. The cherry liquor was rather nice, I must say. The gentleman who helped us was so cute and helpful. I just couldn’t say no….and we’ll need the coats for our new life in Chicago. The tailor came down, took some measurements and said the coats would be ready tomorrow at 7pm. WOW!!! SO EXCITED!!!

Well…no more shopping for us. No way, no how. So…more walking. We don’t want to do too much so we stopped at a little place and grabbed a sandwich and some sangria – don’t want to overeat as we have BIG plans for dinner!!

Returning to the hotel for a rest and relaxation before dinner. I think we both fell asleep for a while. Must have been the Sangria at lunch! Haha. I wonder how long it will take for my liver to recover from this holiday!! Worth it. We shower, get dressed and decide to walk to the restaurant.

The Restaurant is located at Av. del Parallel, 164, not too far from the hotel on the other side of the Rambla. We decide to walk to work up an appetite…and maybe go into calorie deficit before dinner (does that even exist??). We have arrived after a brisk walk of about 30 minutes. See, told you it wasn’t that far. Our reservation is for 7pm, we arrive on time and are seated promptly.

Tickets is a circus themed restaurant. We are seated at the bar where sous chefs prepare "Pizza". It resembles pizza in that it is round and made of flour – other than that…..nada! One chef is grooming some kind of herb plant. Using micro scissors, he carefully, purposefully and ever so gently selects the proper sized herb. It is a painstaking process of careful consideration. Snip. It falls into a receptacle specifically used for this one herb. Using surgical forceps (really long offset tweezers) and equally surgical precision he places the herb leaf atop a green dot placed earlier on the “slice of pizza”. The herb leaf placed, he then adds roe both orange and yellow in color – each placed with careful precision and equidistantly apart from each other. It takes this surgical chef less time to place everything on the slice even with such careful precision, then a regular pizzaiolo making a combo pizza. There are few ingredients all selected with color, taste and presentation in mind. This is a work of art.

Behind the bar is a wall of waving Japanese cats – you know the ones in the sushi restaurants for good luck? All waving, out of unison. Amusing. A huge TV fills the center of the wall with a video loop of all the Adria brothers’ restaurants. We take mental notes.

Our server introduced herself and asked if we’d ever been to Tickets before. No. She presented the menu, and she mentioned there are multiple options available…..she asked if we are adventuresome, confirmed our allergies and then presented us with an option. Would we be interested in a Chefs menu? Yes. We gladly put ourselves in your capable hands. What would we like to drink? Bring on the sommelier!! A charming woman arrives introducing herself as our sommelier. She indicates that they do a course pairing differently here. OH GOOD!! This just adds to our excitement. In for a penny, in for a pound! Let’s get this party started. We’ve waited so long to finally get here, we can’t stand the anticipation any longer. We’re hungry!!

What follows is the list of items from our bill….If I can attempt a description, I shall. I apologize if some items are confusing…I don’t speak Spanish or Catalan. I can tell you this was a most enjoyable, delicious perfect meal and well worth the wait to for the reservation:

We start with a 225 Torello Cava, which is paired with an olive, which isn’t actually an olive. Through the miracle of molecular gastronomy, they have created an item in the shape of a Spanish olive, its color matched perfectly, but its texture removed. The “olive” if filled with olive oil. Slurp it into your mouth and bite down. When it explodes, you experience OLIVE! AMAZING. It is called Olivas Gordal Adobad – we were lucky to get two each. I could eat a jar.

The media tarta remolach is a pear macerated in sake and St. Germain liquor topped with caviar, and resting atop the caviar is a square of gold leaf. SO GOOD

Next, a purple floral disk arrives, light as a feather. It is beet but looks NOTHING like a beet. Tastes like beets though! This is the beetroot cake with yogurt and mustard ice cream. We slice it in quarters and enjoy. It melts in your mouth. I mean it LITERALLY melts in your mouth.

A sesame strawberry curry cookie arrived next. A simple bite. Oh SO GOOD!

Simple consome – like you’ve never EVER had in your life!

The cloud of parmesan and hazelnut arrived next (nube de parmesano). You pick up the cloud, with fingers, pop it into your mouth and it begins to melt. Parmesan with hazelnut essence – AMAZING. No crunch, just an explosion of parmesan in your mouth. I want more!!

The Tickets Pizza, which isn’t really a pizza at all is a thin cracker wedge topped with stracciatella and all those herbs and roe I mentioned earlier. Perfection in a bite.

Next arrives two corncobs on a bed of “dirt”. The dirt is chocolate cookie crushed and piled into a box. The corncobs look real, but I can’t be positive. One doesn’t eat the corn cob, but the four puffed corn kernels which look like popcorn. They have a texture of popcorn, but are NOT popcorn…but they taste like a real corn kernel. I’m completely blown away by their creativity, and palate!

A green waffle is next. Remember these are all small bites not much more than a single item, so the waffle is about 2 inches square, is green…, and tastes of the most AMAZING fresh basil! This is the basil air waffle! Melt in the mouth basil.

The server brings a tall spiderlike device on top of which is chopped tuna tartar and sea urchin. Now, I’m hesitant to try the urchin, based on a bad experience at Morimoto in NYC. BUT this. THIS. This is FRESH. I taste the ocean. So wonderful. I could eat more of this as well. This place ROCKS.

Crunchy Nigiri tuna is next – I’m in heaven!

Eel….now….I’m hesitant with the eel as well, but…in for a penny….I said I’d try anything (be careful what you say)….once again HOMERUN!!!!!

Next a raw oyster with a chip of jamon iberico on top. A little crunch, a little ocean a ton of flavor. Still wondering if we’re going to run into an issue…thus far perfection.

Codium Seaweed tempura in a vinaigrette. Simple, clean on the palate and an excellent transition.

Still enjoying everything and not at all stuffed. BRING IT ON!!!

Roasted asparagus. Simple, tasty.

A roasted shrimp elegantly presented in its simplicity and perfectly prepared.

Viaje Nordico is a work of art. We’ve been watching them make it all night long and finally it is our turn. The platter arrives dusted with a powered surface. Atop the platter are two simple crackers with Waygu beef and some lovely hers, which include dill, I think. Simple, no? Sublime, yes.

Almejas Jamon. Seriously…how can ham be this good?

The pulpo crujiente arrives next. The octopus tentacle is arranged neatly on the plate. Sliced perfectly, topped with sesame and a simple sauce (right, simple). It is tender. It is fresh. It is simply perfection.

The king Crab in chili sauce arrives. The crab is tender, served in its “body” (not really, I think they are manufactured). The sauce has a real spicy kick at the finish and is so wonderful to consume.

Fresh peas. Crunchy, green and glorious, with caper butter and pancetta.

Fideos de campo are their version of noodles. These “noodles” are perfectly cut to exacting lengths. No one noodle is longer than the other. They look beautiful floating with vegetables and a little sour cream. The server challenges me to determine what the noodles are: MUSHROOMS!!! These are perfectly sliced mushrooms, which look like noodles. Molecular gastronomy? I don’t know, but however prepared, they are wonderful.

Canape pollo a l’Ast is fried chicken skin…who doesn’t love that? So good with a perfect crunch.

We finish with Pato con peras, which is a pear poached in red wine. LOVE!

I failed to mention our accompanying wines which are: Sake Sohomare (best sake ever); Manzanilla Pasada, a lovely white wine, Cervoles Blanco, also a wonderful white wine; Fredi Torres a red.

Do we have room for dessert? Um, YES!!! Evidently, we have to wait our turn in the Dessert room! YES, you read that right, a separate room just for dessert. As it should be!!

The room is over the top. Hanging from the ceiling are oversized plastic cherries, blackberries and blueberries. The room resembles a film…and wouldn’t you know it – some clips of famous “food movies” – think Ratatouille, and the like. Too funny!!

Once again we are seated at a bar in the dessert room. Shortly after arriving we receive a rose, situated atop the real fresh rose is a red orb. We are to lift the rose and suck in the orb. Bite down and a rose flavored juicy sweet nectar explodes in your mouth. I love it.

Next a waffle cone perched in chocolate crumb “dirt”. The waffle cone if filled with cooked apple and topped with crème fraiche and a caramel sauce. This is their version of a tart tatin. THE BEST EVER!

After the tatin, arrives a pancake. Of course, not just any pancake – it is filled and the sauce is heated maple syrup. Not too sweet, and really good. A butter cookie comes next then we finish with a chocolate éclair….which as you may have guessed isn’t REALLY an éclair at all. It is crunchy and melts in your mouth.

OK…NOW….we are DONE. Only four hours have elapsed since our arrival in this gastronomical heaven. This evening goes down as one of our favorite meals, and has impressed us both. Tickets is worth the trouble of a reservation, you will not be disappointed. Trust me!!

We walk home at 11pm feeling sated and safe. As we walk, we notice people sleeping in various places along the streets. I guess the homeless situation is just as bad here, which is a surprise. We then notice some people asleep in the ATM room at one of the banks. So sad. Feeling a bit odd after the evening we just had. Once again thankful for our good fortune taking nothing for granted.

Time for bed!!!


Our last full day



Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain and Canary Islands
Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Woke up this morning with food on my mind. Not hungry, but still celebrating a most wonderful meal. Was last night real? A dream, perhaps…..no….my big belly is proof that the most memorable of meals did in fact really happen.

We have overslept….again! Surprised, maybe even shocked I'm sure. Our plans to go to Girona or maybe even wine tasting tour are scrapped entirely at this point – oh well. I’s SURE we’ll make do. Barcelona has much to offer.

The Miro museum sounds like an idea, but we just can’t seem to get it together….I think reality is beginning to set in. The trip is ending. We have an enormous task facing us when we return to San Francisco. Daunting, in fact. Oh, fiddle dee dee….after all tomorrow is another day. SO…we walk.

Breakfast done, we decide to take a nice long walk – and this time we’ll take the road less travelled. Rather than going through the Gothic quarter, we take a right as we exit the hotel, then cross the street and wander.

Not long into our walk, we find ourselves in front of the Arch. Looks familiar. We’ve been here before. SO, time to make another decision, which we’ve been loath to do recently – do we go left or to we take a right. Right it is. Low and behold, in front of us are the remains of a Convent, which has been restored, and converted into a restaurant and event space. The restaurant is closed, but we ignore the signs, and proceed into the courtyard. I love the incorporation of the ancient with the modern. Glass, ancient brick, steel and concrete not in competition with one another but complementary elements which, when unified create an incredible new structure embracing the past and looking forward to the future. A few pictures and we move along.

Now walking west, I think we find ourselves in the neighborhood known as the Born. Looking to the left, we see what looks to be a former Market. Upon closer inspection, we find it is indeed a former market space, restored to its beautiful glory and now finds new life as a museum. Curiosity get the best of us, we HAVE to explore this space. Inside, we find the ruins of an ancient city. Barcelona as it was – perhaps several hundred years ago. Truly fascinating, we read our way through the space stopping at each sign to learn more about this ancient fortress found under the Born Market. One museum down, so to speak.

Wandering once again, we see a park. Yet another structure draws us in, this time with the façade of a church. When is a church not a church – when it is not consecrated and when it finds life as a garden conservatory! I don’t think it was ever a church, given its location – but one never knows, and I’ve not read anything about it. The roof structure is wooden slats, which allows air and light into the space. The conservatory is small but interesting. A lot of birds have made their home here – I’m on the watch for dropping objects, if you get my meaning!!

Outside, the street on one side and the park on the other flank the conservatory; the park is home to hundreds of orange trees thick with fruit. Alas, the fruit is too high for my reach. Oh, and the mounted park police seem to frown on picking the fruit. It IS a public space, right?? Guess it only goes so far, and I’m not interested in spending any time as guests of the Barcelona police.

Across the park we see the Parliament Building. Still in use. Police everywhere. Maybe someone important is around – I have absolutely no clue who they may or may not be. We move along. The park is clearly a major draw for locals. Four times in this city and we’ve never seen this before – how is that possible? Meh….at least we’ve seen it now.

The park is home to more than just fruit trees. It is alive with people. Lunching, school field trips, gentlemen creating HUGE bubbles with soapy water and string – most wonderful to behold. I’m fascinated by the life we find here. Off in the distance, in front of us the Zoo. No, we don’t go in. Zoos depress me; the animals always seem so forlorn.

We walk on. Now, through the gothic quarter we are surprised to find ourselves in front of the Picasso Museum. Oh HELL no! I’m NOT standing in that line for any reason. No way. Pass. Amazingly, my stomach tells me it’s time to eat. SO…we find a quick place to sit and eat a little something. Perhaps we go back to "our regular" tapas place?? Seems like a great idea. MORE WALKING! Well, we’ll work up an appetite at this pace, so why not.

We seat ourselves at the bar and order up! Anchovies on toast with tomato, croquetas – SO GOOD, a glass of chardonnay and we’re off to a great start. I’m so HAPPY now.

Our jackets are just across the street, I wonder if they are ready. It is probably too early, so we avoid the temptation and head back to the hotel to relax a bit. We’ve been walking for six hours and the feet are done. DONE.

Ah…..relaxation. WiFi. Maybe a little writing, nah maybe not. Christopher grabs some shut eye, I on the other hand am watching the TV because Pennsylvania and a few other states just had their primary, and the votes are coming in. I can’t BELIEVE he’s getting so many votes! The Donald? REALLY? Seriously? How is this possible?? TV must be turned off. A nap is in order, if I can get the image of President Trump out of my mind.

Clearly, I got the image of that buffoon out of my mind. Even if it was just a few minutes, the nap feels wonderful and I’m restored….somewhat. Really, DONALD TRUMP? We get the government we deserve. People – WAKE UP!! I think I need a cocktail, so I make the suggestion to Christopher. In a few minutes we’re downstairs washing away the memory of the previous day’s primary and contemplating our options should “he” win!!

OK…NOW it’s closer to the time when we can pick up our coats. Three are done one more to go. SO…we walk. More walking. We decide to stroll along the Barcelona version of Rodeo Drive, Paseo de Gracia. We wander into a few stores – we are smitten by the Massimo Dutti stores – their men’s fashion is spot on, and the prices are reasonable. Not now. Not now! A quick glance at the watch and bingo. They should be ready.

The coats exceed our expectations. Three made to order coats and one alteration in 24 hours. Now, that’s SERVICE! The quality is wonderful and the leather so soft and smooth. We are VERY HAPPY!!!

Not cool enough to wear the coats….darn it.

Back to the hotel to contemplate packing and dinner. We don’t want to leave.

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