Carrion to Moratinos

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Europe » Spain
September 24th 2016
Published: October 22nd 2017
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Geo: 42.3865, -5.07881

Only three of us in the room and the 3rd was a woman; what are the odds of a heavy snorer, on the Camino, pretty high?! She snored lik a sailor! Dave was stirring about 6:30 and turned the light on about 6:45. After breakfast of yogurt, peach and granola bar, we were on the Camino by 7:30.

We had a coffee at the last bar/restaurant in town and began the long 17 kilometer trek to the first town. It was flat as a table, very little change in scenery with one oasis stop in the middle, which we passed by.

The significant event is that we passed the half way point of our Camino!!! There were not bells or marching bands, but a big psychological lift that it was downhill the rest of the way. Our spirits were lowered by the boredom of the hike and that Dave was again feeling his shin splint.

We could see our lunch town of Calzadilla for several kilometers, but it seemed to take forever to get there! All the outside tables were packed at the 1st bar/restaurant so we opted for the 2nd, which was also the last. We had crackers, ham and cheese that we bought last night at the market. It was hot, we were tired and the cold beers tasted especially good! Inside, the lobby of the attached albergue, had a dozen backpacks/luggage all labeled and ready for transport. Met and had a nice conversation with Matt from Vancouver, BC.

From here, it would be about 13 kilometers to our overnight village of Moratinos. We had moved from flat to rolling and always surrounded by miles and miles of harvested wheat.

We took an alternate route that actually added a 1/2 kilometer, mistake, it was isolated, unmarked, lasted several kilometers and we both had fears we may be lost and were very happy when it converged back onto the main route.

The only other standout event was that when we passed through Terradillos de los Templarios which was our first choice as an overnight, but had no vacancy, had a tour bus out front. We had passed and been passed by the 40 day hikers who the bus had sagged. So much for "pilgrims" having dibs on albergue beds!

It turned out for the better because that albergue was full, via e-mail, we had booked a double room at Albergue San Bruno in Moratinos, only 3 kilometers further. We were greeted by friendly staff and a glass of ice water.

There were familiar faces but more new ones, our pilgrim families keep growing and shrinking. We were shown our private room, with shower and a DOUBLE bed! For 32 euro, we thought we were in a 4 star hotel.

There was a well fed, stone spa with ice cold water. About 8 people could soak their aching feet. Dave found a spot and the cold water was a perfect treatment for his shin.

After cleaning up and hand washing a few clothes, we sat around sipping wine and hobnobbing with our fellow pilgrims. We opted for the 9.50 euro pilgrim meal at 7:00. The village offered few, if any, alternatives.

Though the meal seemed to lack a main course, we had delicious pasta with diced pork, and a lettuce/cabbage/tomato salad. The highlight of the dinner was the comraderie of the pilgrims. Tables were set up in a long row outside. The 40 of us hailed from over a dozen countries.

The six or eight on either side or across from us were Austrian, Australian, Irish, Israeli, Canadian and German. We had lively discussions about the Camino, politics and life.

Next to Sue was a very nice German woman named Gudren. Sue was talking about not having a reservation for tomorrow. Gudren immediately offered to phone some places for us. Sue and Gudren went to a quiet area and after about six calls, found a place but only 15 kms up the road. It is about 8 kms short of the "stage" end but will keep us on schedule for Leon on Tuesday.

Gudren was a really lovely person who was doing the Camino on her own. She asked her husband, who said, "yes, but don't expect me to do it" and asked her company who had never had anyone do it. She trained by hiking the 11 kilometers to work and back each day with a full pack. She is strong and is doing 30 kms each day. She started somewhere in France which she said was really great compared to the busy Camino Frances. She was right down our alley since she saw the "commune" the night before in Boadillo and said, "These are not people I want to share my life with" and we agree!

We retreated to the dining room and had a good FaceTime with Bligh, Brennan and Dan. By 10:00 all had headed for their beds.

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