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Published: October 22nd 2017
Geo: 42.5709, -2.19321
Estella to Torres de Rio
We were up at the agreed hour of 7:00 and packed out in the hallway so we wouldn't disturb Charlotte or the Spainard too much. We said auf wiedersehen to Charlotte, and were off by 7:30.
We passed through the village of Irachi and it's monastery and winery. Here we drank wine from the famous Irachi wine fountain at 8:00, seemed a little early. Our first cafe con leche stop was in Azqueta; we are sure every pilgrim stops here. The coffee actually went very well with leftover pizza and an apple. We had a great outdoor table and watched a shepherd and his dog herd a flock of several hundred sheep.
Castillo de San Esteban, looms over the village of Villamayor as it sits on a mountain top and can seen from 360 degrees for miles around.
Except for the initial climb out of Estella, the route was pretty easy through rolling hills of grain, vineyards and olive orchards. From Villamayor de Monjardin to Los Argos is about 8 miles with no villages along the way - just putting one foot in front of the other!
Los Argos is where most pilgrims on our planned
itinerary would lay over. We did stop for a beer and our leftover chorizo sandwich and went in it's beautiful church.
Our destination was Torres de Rio, nearly 8 kilometers further. We wanted to make tomorrow a little shorter so we could spend more time in Logrono. It was a long 8k! We only saw 6 other pilgrims and were walking into a 25 mph headwind. An actual mini tornado came rushing down our gravel road trail; we saw it coming for 50 yards and turned our backs to it as it passed by.
Torres de Rio has several albergues, a small market, its 16th century octagonal church and not much else. Like all these villages and city centers of the bigger towns, the streets are 10 feet wide with flower boxes in the windows, most filled with geraniums. It is a town featured in "The Way".
We checked into Albergue La Pata de Oca about 4:00pm. The courtyard was full of pilgrims enjoying a coffee, beer or wine. Because we were so late arriving, we ended up with two top bunks in a 20 bed dorm.
We hand washed a few clothes -
Dave lost a pair of socks and underwear,
so this has become an everyday ritual. Because the village offered no other alternatives, we did the pilgrim meal at 7:00pm.
We ate with Helen and Paul from Cambridge, Massachusetts. A very interesting retired couple who have traveled the world and were on the first leg of spending a year in Europe.
The good company was matched with an equally good meal. We both got the roasted drunken chicken with frites and salad; Sue opted for a chocolate custard and Dave went with a bowl of ice cream. Halfway through dinner, our server told us that it was raining and if we had clothes hanging out that we better go save. Dave raced up, but it was too late, the fatalities would be hanging on the outside of the pack tomorrow!
It was about 9:30pm when we headed up to the dorm and the lights were turned out and all the pilgrims tucked in.
Tot: 3.458s; Tpl: 0.047s; cc: 6; qc: 52; dbt: 0.1456s; 3; m:saturn w:www (18.104.22.168); sld: 2;
; mem: 1.4mb