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May 4th 2010
Published: May 4th 2010
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Resting in RoncesvallesResting in RoncesvallesResting in Roncesvalles

The pilgrim's hostel in Roncesvalles
The first day of the Camino was the most difficult - walking across the Pyrenees from St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. It was drizzling rain, when Ben, a pilgrim from Los Angeles, and I set out from St. Jean. The initial trek was steep and long and Ben was not acclimated to the altitiude and had trouble catching a breath. My lungs felt fine but I was dreading the downhill into Roncesvalles which has always been hell on my knees.

The scenery was amazing! There was a mist that lifted from the valley floor and hung in the air before dematerializing like a ghost. The sounds of cow bells were everywhere.

As we gained altitude the rain turned into sleet and soon we were trekking through matted leaves and mud. When we got to the top of the mountain pass, which was an alpine meadow, it got very cold.

The last 3.8 K downhill was as I expected, torture on my knees and all I could think about was getting a hot shower and a hot cup of coffee. We finally reached Roncesvalles after nine hours of walking. We were lucky compared to the Pilgrims who
BrasileirosBrasileirosBrasileiros

Fellow pilgrims Jose and Hozhangela from Sao Paolo
started later in the day and ran into a blizzard on top of the pass - they had to be rescued by Spanish firefighters and carted down by vehicle to Roncesvalles.

That night my legs felt like jelly and I could tell that walking the next day would not be a good idea, so I decided to pickup the Camino again in Pamplona. The first time I walked the Camino, I was a purist and walked every step of the way. This time I wasn´t going to be shy about taking public transport if necessary. I purposely missed the only bus to Pamplona because I wanted to check out the museum and church. Rather than stay another night in Roncesvalles, I took a taxi to Pamplona. I am waiting to find a Wi-Fi hotspot to upload photos so bear with me.


Additional photos below
Photos: 13, Displayed: 13


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Collegiate ChurchCollegiate Church
Collegiate Church

This is wher the special Pilghrim's mass is held and a special blessing given to pilgrims.
St. Jean Pied de PortSt. Jean Pied de Port
St. Jean Pied de Port

The bridge that all pilgrims leave St. Jean by.
The Famino StartsThe Famino Starts
The Famino Starts

Open countryside
Fresh FeetFresh Feet
Fresh Feet

Before the reality of the journey's difficulty hit me...
Fellow PilgrimsFellow Pilgrims
Fellow Pilgrims

Suzana and Marie from Denmark
On the WayOn the Way
On the Way

Ben from Los Angeles
The Valley is on FireThe Valley is on Fire
The Valley is on Fire

Amazing mist that snaked through the valley
First AlbuergueFirst Albuergue
First Albuergue

Orisson on the way to Roncesvalles
Refuge from the MountainRefuge from the Mountain
Refuge from the Mountain

Some Canadian Pilgrims had to hunker down here during the night after getting caught in a blizzard
Many Miles to GoMany Miles to Go
Many Miles to Go

Santiago is very far ... but spirits are very high
Worse Cold in 130 YearsWorse Cold in 130 Years
Worse Cold in 130 Years

Ben walked from post to post


5th May 2010

YAY pictures!
Glad to hear you're taking it a bit easier (you do not have anything to prove anyway)! What interesting things did you find in the church and museum??

Tot: 0.088s; Tpl: 0.012s; cc: 10; qc: 49; dbt: 0.0368s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.2mb