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Published: September 26th 2015
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Cross as waymark along the Camino
Our guide book gives many different markers with distances to help keep us on the path. This was one just out of Puenta la Reina 28 August 2015, Friday Stage 5
15.36 miles, Left at 0811 and arrived at 1630 after 8 hours 20 minutes. 6 hours of underway time.
A warm day. An understatement!
Friday, August 28. Estella - GPS said 18 miles but went nuts when we stopped for lunch and I recharged watch.
Fitbit: Steps : 35168, Stairs: 133, Miles: 15.36
It is more than 1.25 miles from our hotel to the bridge, so last night our walk through Puente de la Reina covered more than 2.5 miles beyond the day's walk. But the photos we took of the old bridge, in the late afternoon early evening light, we are happy to have.
We all have those days in our lives--the ones that you ask a person where they were on that particular date. On the camino one of those days occurred, and not just for me! You meet a new person on the camino--you ask them when they started--they reply with a timeline that would include August 28 in the eastern part of the French Way. You quickly ask where they were on that date and when your suspicion is confirmed you immediately form a bond.
Another Camino waymarker
Note the subcaption below the shell symbol I have never been so HOT--HOT--HOT and neither had they.
We left Punta de la Reina, over the lovely, lovely bridge. There is a nice level path to limber up sore muscles for a short distance. A beautiful morning with birdsong and a nice path.
But then we come to an ascent and strike uphill, along a steep ravine. There are fine views back over the Rio Arga valley. Leveling off to catch our breath we pass through the slumbering village of Maneru, historically linked with the Knights Templar and Order of St. John. We are now passing through vineyards and olive trees and amazing colonies of snails on the plants along the path.
In about eight kilometers we come to the charming village of Cirauqui Plaza. It is a medieval hilltop village and we are headed for one of the best examples of Roman road on the camino. But before that occurs we are surprised by a green plant interpretation of the world, Mercator map style, on a hillside. Superb idea and execution!
Wow, those Roman roads were tough on the feet--or, at least they are tough 2,000 years later! It seemed as if all
The camino path and the fields
Olive and Almond groves along the path the stones were set in vertically and really cut into the boots. But it is amazing when you think they were put in place so many centuries ago. Over the Roman bridge we go.
We are now seeing many olive trees and stop to watch a gentleman, in a blue smock, cutting off the suckers at the base of the tree. Sunflowers also brighten the landscape.
Today is 85% on natural paths with few trees and little shelter. It is so warm. A rather amusing incident happens on a hill after we have blessedly left the Roman road behind. Two cyclists zoom by us at the bottom of another hill. Young men displaying their prowess. Then the hill ascent really begins and they start to lag. The leader is in better shape, and although huffing and puffing, manages to disappear over the ridge crest. His more 'solid' companion is having trouble pushing his bike up the incline and I am slowly gaining on him. He is really struggling but I sense he really does not want to be passed by this more 'senior' pilgrim! I am within a few yards of him, just proceeding at the same, slow,
A view of Maneru
At the top of the first of four climbs for the day steady pace when he makes a supreme effort to heave his cycle over the rocky path, up the final yards. He now heaves his body onto the bike and rides off while I chuckle.
We pass through the little villages of Lorca and Villatuerta Puente.
One of the most enduring images of the trail so far was the ruins of the ancient hermitage of St. Michael (Ermita de San Miguel arcangel) The ruins are all that remain of an extensive pilgrim hospital. Its artifacts date back to XIthC (11th century) and are now in a museum. It is a most quiet and serene spot, time standing still. Old olive trees still stand guard outside the door.
Estrella is now within our sights but seems to stubbornly remain out of reach. It certainly feels as if we are entering through the back door. We are near the Rio Ega and a riverside park. People are enjoying the water and all one can think of in the heat is how nice it would be frolicking in the pools of coolness also!
Finally I can take no more, fall onto a bench in the park and tell Harlan to
The old wall and gate
Most of the villages were on hills and had walls from medieval days. A gate the camino passes through find our hostel and come back, hopefully, to retrieve me! Endless time goes by and I see our Calgary, Canadian friends drag by but am too tired to hail them. At last Harlan returns and informs me I have chosen the furthest bench in the furthest reaches of the park at least 3/4 of a mile from our Hospederia! We return to the hotel, a very modern and upscale lodging and I immediately take a nap. Hospederia Chapitel.
Refreshed, we set out to explore. There is the magnificent Iglesia San Pedro with its impressive flight of stairs but mass is in progress. We wander down the street beside the church and discover the ascensor that lifts one to the upper level where we find a beautiful little 12thc. cloister attached to the church. Here is where the kings of Navarre took their oaths. The Palace of the Kings, Palacio de Los Reyes de Navarra is now the Information Center.
We are looking for one establishment, in particular, for dining and pass through a quiet plaza. We decide it is not the place to eat and return to the main square, Plaza Fueros, where all the activity is. Families
Design of plants showing the world
Very innovative use of the mercator projection on the hillside as we start down the old roman road are on benches and the restaurant tables are filled with groups of ladies. We find an empty table near a group and ask for a dinner menu. It is clear that this is the ladies daily gossip meeting. We ask if they allow a photo. Then one lady starts to tell Karen her family history and has photos from the 1930s to show. We have a nice dinner and watch the kids play soccer and run and ride scooters and look to wave to their grandmothers. This is the classic setting for so many squares or plazas we have seen in Spain and Italy. The people can sit and just enjoy being outside with friends and family as the time passes. There is no sense of the need to do anything but enjoy the present moment.
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