Creep

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Geo: 42.4658, -2.45

Last day in San Sebastian ... sigh ... all that know me well, and even those that have only met me in passing while traveling, can tell that Spain holds a special place in my heart. It's a country that represents so many things for me - so many emotions, so many epiphanies, so many memories ... though I've tried so many times over the years, I can't even begin to describe all that it means to me. There are so many places in Spain that I love ... but San Sebastian might be at the very top of my list. Five times I have been here, and five times I leave with an incredible feeling of happiness and great satisfaction, despite the emotion being tinged with a touch of sorrow at the prospect of leaving.

A bit of a funny conversation with Julia this morning over pastries in the hostel's kitchen - my many travels to Spain were discussed and of course, the subject of Spanish senoritas came up. She laughed "If I didn't know you, I might think you were a bit of a creep." My reply was "Well ... those that know me well ... know I probably am a bit of a creep ..."

Though I have been in Spain for six days, I would say that the Spanish segment of the trip officially starts today. With the exception of the picnic and beach day at Zumaia, I've barely had to speak any Spanish so far in Spain - now that I am back on my own, I will have as many opportunities as I would like. Full immersion in this beautiful language ... just one of the many great reasons to keep returning here.

After one last coffee, it was off to Logrono, the biggest city in La Rioja, Spain's famous wine-producing region. First impressions - snore ... I didn't expect much of Logrono, having spoken with a girl from here when I was in Zaragoza last year. She wasn't a big fan of it, as it wasn't the most lively Spanish town. But lacking a car, this was the most convenient spot to stay if I wanted to visit a couple of bodegas in La Rioja.

On the way to the pension, I stopped at a grocery store to pick up some fruit, juice, and water - out of the corner of my eye, I saw a security guard slowly sidle up to me. Great ... he was going to tell hassle me about going back upstairs to drop off my big backpack, for fear of me knocking something over. Or so I thought ... turns out he was just offering some advice on the various types of peaches and nectarines they have here. "Do you know what you are looking for?", he asked, and gave me a quick rundown on which ones were sweeter, and which ones had a softer or firmer texture.

Logrono's Casco Antiguo (old town) is ... a bit odd, slightly claustrophobic in some areas. I can't really say why this is, because I have been in medieval Spanish towns that have narrower streets and smaller plazas ... but here, it just has a feeling of being closed in, for some strange reason. That's not to say that it isn't a beautiful place, since there is some truly elegant architecture around the old town.

Though not the most beautiful river, Logrono is nicely situated along the Ebro, with many nice picnic spots along its banks. Spanish restaurants can be funny some times - I ended up spending about 12 Euros on a really nice picnic tonight, but there are tons restaurants around town where you can get a three course meal including wine for less than that. But honestly ... for both the taste and the experience, I'd rather have my little picnic along the river.

Munching on fine Spanish jamon serrano and manchego cheese, looking out at the river ... you can't beat that experience, especially when accompanied with a tiny little bottle of Rioja. You know those epiphanies while traveling that I always talk about? Well, tonight I had another one as I sipped my Rioja ... I should come to Spain and become a wino! The wine is cheap, the weather is nice ... there's no better place to become one!

Late Night You-Tubing Moment: Creep by Radiohead. Quite fitting, after my conversation this morning with Julia, don't you think? And ... it's a version with Spanish subtitles! How cool is that?

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Photos

g
Plaza in front of Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda, in Logrono.

A
Breakfast - a custard-filled Napolitana with nuts on top, pretty average stuff. While bread in the Basque Country rivals that of France, its pastries, while still a huge step up over every other place in Spain, still can't touch the French goods.

b
What better way to say goodbye to Tri than to have one last cafe con leche together?

c
Finally - a Spanish girl to marry!

j
Logrono has a science centre right along the banks of the Ebro River - this was a chamber where you could stick your head in, and the resonance created by any sound you made while inside would transmit vibration through your body. I thought it was funny because ...

k
... I imagined this would be a good place for Tri to puke, since he's been having troubles keeping his cookies down recently.

l
As much as I mock Spanish food, there are some truly delicious items available in this country. The jamon serrano was from Teruel, an excellent recommendation from the lady who worked the deli counter, and always delicious with some fine Spanish tomatoes. Whoever came up with a pre-packaged assortment of four cheeses is brilliant! Manchego is some of the finest cheese you can have, the Curado was a softer cheese, the Semi-Curado was too soft, and the Tierno was the softest of them all. Neither of the other three types could match the Manchego for taste and texture. A little dark chocolate with almonds and a palmeira (butterfly cookie) were some yummy desserts. I love Palmeiras, but I think not so much for the taste as for the memories of eating them as a kid. I haven't had a really good Palmeira in a long time, but still will get them just because.

o
The lowlight of the meal was some truly bad bread - dry and hard, I worried about choking on it. I ended up ripping up into little bits and throwing them in the Ebro River for the fish to eat, but even they wouldn't touch it! I should've brought some tasty bread with me from San Sebastian.

n
I popped into a little wine shop to pick up some vino to go with the picnic - it was great that they had tiny little bottles like this that contained not much more than a glass. I briefly considered getting a half bottle instead, but given what a lightweight I am, I didn't want to be found floating face down in the Ebro River. I felt so classy, drinking my wine directly out of the bottle ...

q
The Ebro River is much nicer at night, it's pretty muddy-looking during the day.

s
Why I love Spain - they'll make any excuse to throw a big party. A festival dedicated to chorizo???

zj
Who knew? Spaniards are into roller hockey!!!

Comments

[greg]

I'm a few blocks away from the sites of your pics, on the banks of the Ebro, and feeling similarly tonight. Vivan los amantes del vino!