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Published: October 2nd 2017
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Raresh and a few of the others left before I was ready, saying I'd catch up soon enough. Before leaving Arzua, I couldn't resist stopping at a cafeteria/panaderia for coffee and a chocolate croissant. It wasn't any better than other places, but hit the spot. I walked alone for about 7 kilometers, through several small towns, before stopping for breakfast in A Calzada, having caught up with Raresh. I spotted a bag of toasted snap pea just like the ones I enjoyed in the states and convinced Raresh to buy a bag at 2 euros. He really liked them too. When we left, I guess I sort of stepped out again and left the others behind. When I stopped for lunch at the Restaurante O Cedreiro, 6 or 7 kilometers later, apparently they passed me up while I was inside ordering. After eating some delicious homemade croquetas, I hit the Camino again.
I didn't catch up with Raresh for another 11 kilometers, when I reached the Hotel Parrajada Amenal. After a coffee, we all started the last 6 kilometers together, pretty uphill the whole way. Again, everyone was chatting, and without thinking about it, I must have stepped out again.
Next I knew I was entering our little destination town of Lavacolla. I sort of panicked for a minute because I knew we had reservations, but didn't know where or in whose name. I asked a lady at a B&B about albergues, and she pointed me towards the only one in town. When I told the receptionist that I thought we had reservations, either in Silvia or Jude's name, thank heavens she said yes, for 8 people, in both names. It had been a long and grueling 30 kilometer day.
The albergue was pretty decent, with Wi-Fi, a nice kitchen, and a bathroom inside our room. I made a cup of coffee and kicked back to rest and wait for the others. They showed up about 20 minutes later, and Silvia and her group about an hour after that. We checked out the supermarket and asked about places to eat dinner. The supermarket had the usual, one restaurant was a Michelin restaurant with a 22 euros pilgrim menu (it's usually 9 to 12), and we found a place that would deliver a variety of inexpensive fare. We ended up walking down to the Hotel Restaurant San Paio. Even though
they have a Michelin sticker on the door, they had a 10 euro pilgrim's dinner. Raresh treated me since he still owed me some from previous meals. I had ensaladilla Russo and stewed pork. Both were delicious and were served in giant portions.
Tomorrow we are doing the last 10 kilometers to Santiago de Compostella. We hope to get there before 10am so Raresh can attend the mass on his 38th birthday. We both have train tickets for the same train from Santiago de Compostella to Madrid. I will try to come up with some good final thoughts and insights on the Camino for tomorrow's blog.
***the Wi-Fi connection is very slow and it's after 10pm so I'll finish tomorrow.
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
Ensaladilla Russo was one of my favorite selections...
I got tired of the tortillas after awhile. I look forward to reading your final observations.