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Published: September 19th 2012
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We set off, originally for Portomarin, a 24km stretch with a bit of a climb ..........for the previous almost 700km we had spent time with and passing/being passed by folk who seemed to be of like mind........we'd been in numerous Albergues which were all physically quite different to each other, yet their inhabitants whatever their country of origin were universally the same............ people talked quietly to each other in the sleeping areas, lights went out at 10.30 each night, fellow pilgrims were helpful and respectful - for instance people took short showers - ensuring hot water left for the next person - meals and resources (eg for footcare etc ) were shared sometimes. There was a camaraderie built on the toil of walking the shared path , on the amused and rueful recognition of the aching limp/walk we all did when arising from being seated ( the pilgrim shuffle). We would recognise familiar faces from 'back there' - back there in both time and location as neither seemed to have any measure when we were living so much in the moment ...... and as we all walked people were friendly, interactive, and conversational on the Way.
Suddenly - after Sarria
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I saw immediately this fallen tree in a field with its amazing resemblance to a 'cat/tiger' .....the new pilgrims didnt seem to even notice it - all rushing past , boisterously shoving/playfighting.......I know..... I'm judging...... - the Camino changed!...... we had been warned about this happening in John Brierley's guidebook....I quote ' Beware for any signs of resentment at intrusion on 'MY' Camino- remember that many of the new arrivals may be nervous starting out and the last thing such a person needs is aloofness built on a false sense of superiority. A loving pilgrim welcomes all they meet along the path - without judgement' When I read this a little ahead of our reaching the point where we were joined by all the 'newbies I thought 'Of course- that's the right thing to do - I can be gracious and welcoming'
but THEN we were suddenly amongst them.... they of the clean clean boots, carrying tiny little day backpacks, OR ridiculous overstuffed ones - the females wearing makeup and carrying hairdryers - all wearing fresh ironed bright looking clothing including WHITE (!) tops - travelling in noisy loud groups, blocking the path from those who wished to pass..... they didnt speak to others outside of their travel groups in the albergues, were noisy and just generally intrusive without being interactive...... we nicknamed them pilgrim want-to-be's - and I'm sad to say I was
not one ounce gracious and welcoming.... I was crabby and resentful to be truthful. They seemed to pass us in such volumes we were, for the first time, worried we wouldnt be able to get a bed at an albergue - another reason for resentment! We caught up at a bar with an American couple we had seen intermittently since we began, and they also felt the same as Diane and I ... and after meeting others we had previously come to know - Aussie sisters Carol and Margaret - it seemed ALL the long time Camino walkers felt the same way.............
Diane and I stopped for morning tea in bar.... and to discuss the situation because really -the whole morning had been a horrible horrible walk - we both felt angry and resentful - we ALLOWED the 'wannabes ' to affect the joy and pleasure we felt as we walked.....even the beautiful woodlands scenery wasn't adequate distraction or recompense for our ugly seething........ SO we made the decision to a/ NOT feel resentful as we were being passed and to
trust that there would be a bed somewhere ahead - that a 'wannabe' was NOT going to do
either of us out of somewhere to sleep b/ as it was Monday many of the new pilgrims were Spanish, on a weeks holiday and would plan to reach Santiago for the following weekend THEREFORE we decided to go further that day than the 'set distances' suggested in the guidebook - so walk not to Portomarin - 24km but do 8km more and walk on to Gonzar ....thereby hopefully cutting down on the 'crowds' c/ walk for a while with music ( normally we'd save that for later in the day) as a soothing/distracting tool.
And the 3 step strategy worked...... it was such a relief to release those horrible feelings and just get back to walking, in peace............ we stopped at Portomarin for soup and slice of Tarte de Santiago for lunch - then we set off for another 8km - to the amazement of the 20 yrs younger than us Americans ...........
We had SUCH a hassle getting the correct route out of town though... I'm sure we added another 3km onto our 24km + 8km day.........It was getting quite late - about 5-30 or 6pm when we FINALLY found a bed for the night in
Casa Garcia - a private Albergue - we seemed to have the last 2 beds - both top bunks and when unpacked/showered and went to sit at the bar for a drink..... It had a lovely open fire, was quite full of pilgrims . As we were waiting to use the shower we chatted with a young woman and felt an IMMEDIATE bond because she also had started in St jean Pied de Port 700km back.... We did have to be careful about not whinging loudly our concerns/resentments NOT because it would be the gracious and RIGHT thing to do but because we could have been
surrounded by ALL new 100km pilgrims as far as we knew. So we had a few drinks, wrote sketchily in journals, ate a pilgrim menu - and flaked out. I remember my legs were aching so badly they woke me up in the night and I'd press them against the ceiling ( yes - from the TOP bunk) to try ease the pain..... nurofen didnt seem to be doing much good!- My legs were 'talking to me' !
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Lee
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Wow
This journey is certainly not only physical, but mental also. Is the psychological stress bought on by the physicall stress on the body, i wonder. Still, lot's of beautiful memories!