THE LAST HUNDRED KILOMETER - Hiking the El Camino

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THE LAST HUNDRED KILOMETERS

I must apologize. I mix kilometers with miles, indiscriminately in this accounting of our walk to Santiago, Spain. Lauren took special interest in the signposts along the way, in kilometers, as they marked our progress. When we reached Sarria, we expected to encounter many more pilgrims because if you walk from here, the last 100 kilometers, you get the same certificate of completion as those of us who walked the 500 miles from St Jean Pied de Port. I was relieved to discover that after the first few days the trail really wasn’t that congested (especially since we were still starting very early in the morning). A few cafes were really hammered by large groups of people, but we tried to keep a pleasant demeanor and remember that everyone walking the Camino was a fellow pilgrim.

We continued to have special memorable days. One day we stopped to ask directions to an ATM, at a bar that was open early. It was crammed with pilgrims just wanting a bite to eat before continuing toward Santiago. I saw a clear plastic container on the countertop with a paddle stirring a thick brown mixture. I realized it must be the Spanish hot chocolate a friend suggested I should try, so despite the slow service (the bartender was the cook, and server) we sat and ate. The food came after the beverages and I found the chocolate was more like pudding, and I heartily wished for a cup of tea to wash it down, but it would have meant an even longer wait for our food. We were really happy to get on our way when we had finished our food. We discovered the ATM just a few feet up the street as we looked for the route through the city. It became harder to find the signs for the trail. We eventually crossed a highway and passed a bar with a pool table. We got almost to the wooded trail and Lauren said she thought we should go back and play some pool. We had only about an hour to go to our albergue and we both enjoy playing so we did turn back. We asked the bartender for drinks and asked if we could play. He said sure. After a few games the bartender, Luis, came in to watch the game. (I was doing very well…and then he explained the Spanish rules.) I sank the eight ball, in the proper pocket, and briefly I was the winner. Then the cue ball dropped into another pocket, and I lost! We were ready to go and asked Luis for a stamp for our compostela, and he signed it as well, with a flourish. So Lauren asked if he would like to play. “No, no…” he protested. Then he looked around and saw there were no customers, it was a quiet spell, and he gave a big grin and said, “Yes.” Lauren made a great break, then missed the next four shots in a row, unheard of for her. Luis made a couple of trick shots, then the game evened out. Lauren was back in great form; they were down to the eight ball. Back and forth, back and forth until finally Luis accidentally scratched. We all had a hearty laugh, and shook hands and took photos. It was such a great experience.

Then we made our first error on the trail, and hiked an extra 3.6 kilometers, winding up at a hotel with three other people who had also missed the turn. We all took a taxi back to our albergue, since my backpack was there we had no choice. The evening turned out to be a great one. We had dinner with three friends, including Howard who walked to Santiago.

On Sunday, June 25^th we walked into Santiago. There were no cheers, no drums or cannon blasts, but we had done it. It seemed like we would never get to the cathedral. There were so many statues and photographic moments. We found our hotel and dropped our packs. After lunch with Howard we met up with the ladies, Daphne and Liz. We parted with plans to meet at the cathedral for mass. Lauren and I decided to go to the Pilgrim’s office for our certificate. There were only five people ahead of us and four or five windows so we had our Compostela in five minutes or less.

In church we lost sight of each other, but eventually found a seat. After mass several altar boys swung the incense burner, which was not expected and quite thrilling. It arcs over the pews twenty feet or more. Cell phones flashed trying to catch the moment. Afterward we planned to meet for dinner, but when we went to the information booth to find out how to find the bus to Finisterre, by the sea we learned there was a bus strike scheduled for the next day, so we hurriedly packed, gave our apologies to Howard and rushed for the next bus. We splurged in Finisterre and got a hotel overlooking the sea. We walked the beach and ate at a nice restaurant. This was our reward for the long walk.

The following day I went diving off the Spanish coast. Lauren hiked to the lighthouse where many pilgrims finish their walk. Three days later we returned to Santiago and the next day caught a taxi to the airport for our flight to Madrid, and after a short layover, on to Seattle.

Keeping a journal of our trip was essential. What a blessing to relive our pilgrimage as I write these words.

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Photos

THE CRACK IN THE SKY
One of the blessings of rising before dawn.

THE CATHEDRAL
The Cathedral was being cleaned and repaired so we had to enter by the back door.

CHECKING OUT THE TABLE
Lauren and I played a couple games before the showdown with Luis.

LUIS, THE PROPRIETOR OF THE POOL HALL
We all enjoyed the pool game.

MORE PHOTO OPPS
Near the city limits of Santiago. There is still a lot more walking, but it is definitely on the home stretch.

SCULPTURE
This is on a slight hill overlooking the city of Santiago. It was built to commemorate a visit by the Pope.

ANOTHER PILGRIM SIGN
Leaving their boots, pilgrims announce they are finished with the Way.

THE CATHEDRAL
The incense burner is hanging in front of the altar. It is an important tradition to attend mass and watch it swing in a huge arc over the pilgrims' heads.

LEAVE-TAKING
We didn't have time to say goodbye to the ladies who also shared our last few days into Santiago, but Howard wished us well, and sent email addresses.

MAR DE FISTERRA
The blue building is our hotel...what a view! Finisterre means the end of the earth.

BRONZE SCULPTURE
This overlooks the sea. The hiking boot is a fitting symbol for the El Camino.

AFTER THE DIVE
It was really cold...even with a 7 ml suit. I had no gloves so it seemed even colder. The dive was so similar to the Seattle area...kelp and rocks, but there were sting rays instead of crabs.