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Published: October 22nd 2017
Geo: 42.8744, -8.54331
We again had a good nights sleep except Sue had developed a sore throat and had to take a couple of Tylenol to get her through the night. We were up about 7:15 and on the Camino about 8:00.
Sunrise wouldn't be for another 40 minutes but the city lights were all that was needed. We intended to have coffee and breakfast before leaving town but nothing was open.
There was no scenery the first hour to Boente, because of a pretty thick fog. There we had breakfast and were able to catch up with Lisa from Australia and Mark from ???
The fog lifted and we were in great rolling hills through pastures and large groves of chestnuts and eucalyptus, which smelled great and offered shade throughout the day.
We have befriended dozens and dozens of people over this past month and as we close in on these last days, sincerely regret not knowing many of their names and not having a photo of them. So many of them are now a day or two ahead of us or a day or two behind us, (or we pray not) injury has prevented them from completing their Camino. Through today, tomorrow
and while in Santiago, we hope to see and reacquaint with many of them.
On this theme, we finally introduced ourselves to Johanna from Germany who has the same name as both our Grandmothers!
In Arzua, the largest town of the day, we resupplied for lunch and breakfast and hit a farmacia to get some remedies for Sue's sore throat.
We have been blessed with incredible weather with temperatures rarely getting out of the 70's and no rain since the first week. Though today had lots of up and down, 80% was in the shade and we never saw 70 degrees.
Our big lunch stop was A Calle, about 20 kilometers. At the same stop was: Lisa, Mark, Bert, Renee, Johanna and Annette.
We had reservations at Pension The Way, in Brea. This would give us a 28 kilometer day. The Way is run by a couple of Brits, very nice place with a B&B atmosphere. Though they have had a very busy summer, there was only one other pilgrim staying today.
The dinner options were pizza delivered, a restaurant -- not recommended, or a bar that they would drive us to. We opted for the latter. We headed out about 6:30,
they dropped us off and came back an hour later to return us to The Way. However, we all had a beer together at the bar, talking about Santiago and them asking how 40+ percent of Americans could possibly be supporting Trump?!?!
We were told weeks ago that at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, they issued 700 credentials on September 8, the day we started. Today we ask, where is everyone? The Camino has been very quiet these past few days when we expected it to be overrun with all the "100 kilometer minimums" joining.
We obviously don't know the answer and can only speculate; are the people we have been hiking with speeding out so to arrive on a specific day, to meet travel plans?; are there fewer 100 kilometer pilgrims because it is well into October?; or have many pushed ahead to be in Santiago for the noon pilgrim mass?; we'll probably never know.
The Way offered beer and wine for a donation because they obviously can't sell liquor. We found out the very good vino blanco was 84 cents a bottle at the store so we did not have to donate much!
Early to bed before our final day of the Camino!!!
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