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Published: October 22nd 2017
Geo: 42.7723, -7.48136
We got up on our own about 7:00am, no other pilgrims sneaking around in the dark. Since their was no town for about 5.5 kms, we stopped for coffee at the hotel. Again, they were less than friendly. Had our usual breakfast purchased from the market and went back to the ominous steps where Sue fell.
We met Jo from Malaysia who was already in O Cebreiro from La Faba. We followed her out of town which was on the road and found out later we were not on the Camino. At the first town we saw pilgrims coming down on a dirt trail but we all ended in the same place. Linares had a beautiful little church but nothing else.
We climbed quite a lot and ended up at a spot 1250 meters high with a modern bronze statue of a windswept pilgrim.
We went through lots of small villages along the way which were mostly farm towns with few services but lots of cow pies on the streets and the smells to go with it.
We had a very steep climb up to Alto do Poio which was basically an Albergue and the high point of the day.
stopped in Fonfria, but definitely stopped at the wrong place. We had coffee and a packaged pastry. We met and shared stories with Alvimar from Brazil. He also started in St. Jean, about a week ahead of us, however due to injuries he had to layover and take a train.
We went through some more farm villages with cows being herded to pastures following the Camino. We had to follow them once and Dave prodded them with his trekking poles -- tried to be a real cow herder! There were some really huge bulls and with his red shirt on ... Big and little dogs were also herding the cows; the little ones were yappers and the big ones took care of business!
As we approached our overnight town, Dave started listing seriously. He could not stand straight. We don't know what caused this, but he adjusted his pack and he could just not stand straight.
We finally came to Triacastela and checked one pension and it was 30 euros for a double room. We remembered Carlos checking the reviews and saying that the Albergue starting with X was the best. We checked in there and got two lower bunks. Carlos, Amparo,
and Lisa were also staying there.
After dumping his pack and taking a shower, Dave was standing straight again. What gave us a scare was that the "listing" was a symptom he experience before his back issues and surgery a few years ago.
We were many days behind in our blog so we went far away from our Albergue to a restaurant and had a very good cabbage soup (they brought a huge bowl and ladle so it was really about 4 bowls) and a nice mixed salad. Very good.
After spending a couple of hours in the restaurant, we searched for a super market and met up with Alexandra and Lisa.
We went to dinner with Amparo, Carlos and Bert from the Netherlands. We had a very nice dinner and Sue tried the tripe soup (local specialty) but only made it through maybe a third! The grilled steak and lamb chops were very good.
Made it back to the albergue before curfew so we worked some more on the blog and got tucked in before 10:00.
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