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Published: April 30th 2010
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Leaving Lugo
Today I left Lugo and entered the last of the provinces/regions through which the Camino Frances passes, A Coruna. There was another small change to the style of the signposts and markings, such as the province name emblazoned on the concrete half-kilometre markings and more of the same style concrete posts appearing to mark different administrative boundaries.
The trail today was mostly just away from a couple of major roads, so while the views were delightfully rural, there was little of the birdsong in the morning that made it over the sounds of traffic. I was thinking that the time for reflection was over a couple of days ago, as a combination of the 100km pilgrims, trail conditions and the like made it important to focus on where one was walking.
Despite all the hurdles, there were delightful peaceful moments during the day, and long sections of the path where it was possible to walk and reflect at the same time. Leaving earlier was also an advantage, with fewer of the large family groups on the path.
Daypacking
There is clearly now a thriving trade in transporting big packs to the pilgrim´s evening destination, leaving the
individuals free to carry whatever they feel is needed for the day. This clearly varies, with some pilgrims looking like they are going for a Sunday stroll in casual shoes and carrying a small bottle of water, through to those that now appear over-equipped with a reasonable day-pack, rain jacket, water etc. What we long distance pilgrims with our large backpacks must look like to them is hard to tell.
The couple of German women in the albergue last night were impressed by the fact that I had come from St Jean Pied de Port, but neither they nor the other three at dinner were 100km pilgrims. The women had started at Burgos, so would have done a substantial distance, and the trio had started at Ponferrada, somewhat less but still a substantial distance already done.
The Camaraderie Returns
Having lamented the loss of the camaraderie of the Camino from Sarria, and its gradual return yesterday from Portomarin, I have to admit that today there was much more comradeship on the trail. One small example was coming into Furelos, where a man I had seen walking two days ago was coming up the hill towards me. He stopped
and asked if I was Australian, and made a joke about the direction of Santiago. He then told me about the Roman bridge that was just ahead. For the largely solo walker, such little contacts along the way are delightful.
Stopping early
My original plan for today was to walk to Arzua, but I by the time I reached Ribadiso, I was more in the mood to stay there at a slightly smaller albergue than push on to the larger ones. This albergue is a reconstruction of one of the oldest pilgrim hospitals that still exist on the Camino, next to a medieval bridge, so it has a wonderful atmosphere.
There are some familiar faces in the dormitory, but it is largely filled with new pilgrims, and there are a number who have all the hallmarks of the peligrino shuffle. I can still remember the slow, awkward gait as my sore feet and tired legs complained bitterly with each step that I took in the first few days on the Camino. They may not be the most wonderful memories, but it somehow made the sufferers part of my journey in a way that the lightweight walkers might never
Ribadiso
Medieval bridge over Rio Iso be.
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