Blown Away in Barcelona!

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Hi there,

We have entertained our first visitors from the US - My niece Katlin and my sister-in-law Julie from Maine. They came in through Barcelona since it is the closest and cheapest airport to our home in St Chinian. So we had the challenge of negotiating in a new country. We drove to get them, about 4 hours, on the French and Spanish superhighways. Feeling confident in our new ability to negotiate French ticket and toll gates, we set off to Spain.

But not so fast.... Turns out the Spanish have a different system to pay which involves either a prepaid card or your own VISA. It must be helpful to understand a bit of Spanish to negotiate the toll booth signs. Failing that, we were greeted at each toll booth by a Spaniard yelling "VISA, VISA". After relinquishing our card to this stranger, he disappeared behind the booth and reappeared presenting us with an open gate. On the way back, we were able to use cash, for reasons not yet understood.

After two weeks, enjoying life in Languedoc, we set off again to Barcelona but this time on the train. Katlin and Julie were in a separate car and were privileged to witness the Spanish police toss a fellow from the train for an unknown transgression. They were already concerned about the tales of pickpocketing and crime in Barcelona. But not to worry, we had a safe, spacious apartment in L'Example. Quite a change from our 300 year old house in France.

This neighborhood is quieter but only a few Metro stops from the Old City, La Rambla and Sagrada Familia. I was not anticipating the grandeur and beauty of the architecture in Barcelona. Get ready for a lot of pictures with this blog, because it was breathtaking.

First day, we went to the Sagrada Familia (Sacred Family) Church which was designed by Antonio Gaudi. The first stone was laid in March 1882 and the church is still under construction. It is MASSIVE and a jaw dropping beautiful spot. The serenity and sense of the divine can't be described in words. Gaudi observed nature and used it's forms to construct his buildings. He knew that the construction would take generations, so he planned for the nativity scene on the facade to be completed in his. You can see the progression of artistic styles through the decades as you move around the building. Early human figures are rounded and match human form, later figures are more angular and sharp.

The columns inside soar to the ceilings above. Gaudi constructed them of uneven height to bear the massive weight of the vault. He also intended this variation to feel like the trees in a forest. Christ is suspended beneath a massive canopy and the cross looks more like a parachute. The interior of the church uses light to change its appearance throughout each day. I want to go back at night to experience it's beauty in a different way.

We were so impressed with Sagrada Familia, we decided to go to Casa Mila, Gaudi's apartment building. We were not disappointed. The exterior of the building is covered with flowing balconies and his trademark mosaic stones. It is amazing that this building is still a functional apartment house. The rent depends on when you moved in. One family has rented a space since the building was opened. Believe me, I would happily work several jobs to afford to live in this space. There is an example apartment open on the tour, furnished from the turn of the century. It is my dream living space of Art Nouveau doorways and flowing rooms. Even the support space in the attic reflects Gaudi's organic sense. It seems as though you are standing in the thorax of a huge whale.

The roof looks like a playground and completes the fantasy of this building. Shapes swirl and twist, all the while providing structure and function to the building. With the city of Barcelona as it's backdrop and the Sagrada Familia in the distance, you can hardly imagine a more beautiful place to live.

Just down the street is the Casa Biltado. This was a private home designed into an existing structure for a private family. It's theme is the sea and the blues and greens and flowing shapes define it. In the interior courtyard, the tiles get lighter blue and the windows get larger as you move down the floors. This gives a feeling of space and light to the house. The courtyard is covered with crazy mosaic flower designs and faces a similar facade on the back of the house. I can't imagine actually living here but the family had several children that called this their home. What a treat! I can imagine the parties and dinners and Christmases in this fantastic space complete with the culture and dress of the 1900's. Can you?

Lots more to say about Barcelona and Gaudi. But I will save that for our next blog. We have two more chances to see more of Barcelona when our visitors come in. So stay tuned. All this and great French wine too! It seems to good to be true.

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Photos

Gaudi's Sagrada Familia

Change in Art form
Despair after the Crucifixion

These soldiers hide the chimneys

Casa Biltado
A family home

Interior corridor
Themes from the sea

The family who lived here

Comments

[Devera Metter]

Gorgeous Photos and Well Written and Informative Text
I very much enjoyed this blog entry....It was like a mini-tour of Gaudi's structures in Barcelona plus useful travel tips on getting there from France, etc.