Day24: 553 kms Walked, 236kms To Santiago. Foncebadón Today.


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Europe » Spain » Castile & León » León » Valdepielago
October 13th 2018
Published: October 13th 2018
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Looking Back To Astorga Looking Back To Astorga Looking Back To Astorga

The Cathedral can be seen , silhouetted on the horizon
Where do you find a dentist in Astorga at 3am in the morning?

I woke at 2.30 am this morning to loud pounding footsteps on a squeaky floor, and the slamming of our room door, compliments of an inconsiderate Australian returning from the bathroom. I listened to him, just before falling asleep, complaining that the food offered in Spain wasn’t the same as Australia; really! He needed his oats and toast for strength before heading out for the day, and he didn’t think it was too much to ask.

What a national embarrassment. I never talk when Australians are around until I suss them out. You never know what you’re getting, and nationality’s seem to be drawn to each other. If I wanted to hang out with aussies, I’d have gone to Bondi.

Anyway, when I woke up, I noticed a previously troublesome tooth had decided to become super sensitive, to the point where touching it was painful. I took out my night guard, (yes, I’m a grinder), and tried to sort out whether I’d nurse it and go to the dentist in Ponferrada, in 2 days time, or have a break in Astorga.

Judging from our
Don’t See This At HomeDon’t See This At HomeDon’t See This At Home

Every day is special. Rain tomorrow though.
previous encounter with the Spanish medical system in 2014, I was worried a visit to the dentist might involve a piece of string attached to my tooth, with the other end tied to a door knob. Slam! Successful extraction.

I tried to calm down , go back to sleep, and reassess it in the morning.

Luckily it had improved and I took some panadol, and set off for Foncebadón. It’s still tender, but I’m nursing it carefully. It calmed down last time; fingers crossed It will again.

I enjoyed todays walk. The paths were generally smooth and, wearing sandals, I set a comfortable pace, passing many people who had started 2 days ago in León. This is a popular starting point due to its proximity to Madrid, via public transport. These people were experiencing what I had 3 weeks ago, only on more forgiving paths.

I walked out of Astorga in the dark, as the tracks were easily visible, white gravel. It’s nice not having the torch beam in front all the time.

I passed through a few small villages on the way to Rabanal, stopping briefly for a quick coffee, wanting to keep up with the flow of walkers heading west.

I even saw a couple carrying a 6 month old baby in a carrier; crazy.

The grey clouds were constant companions and dulled the normally wonderful mountain views.

After Rabanal I left the traditional type of path, and you walk through narrow, waist high scrub, climbing gradually until you approach the road. The tracks are lined with dark mauve bushes and clusters of bright purple flowers. They brightened up the dirty green scrub and were a distraction from the climb. As I battled up a steep section of a hundred metres or so, I thought of the elderly Korean man, resplendent in compression stockings, struggling to negotiate the easy paths a little further back. I shouldn’t have worried; he’s here now. It’s all about pace.

The Cruz de Ferro is 2 kms further on in the morning. This is a cross , piled high with stones and offerings from around the world, and is a symbolic monument where you bring something from home, and leave it there as a way of leaving the past behind, ridding yourself of problems, or commemorating a loved one or cause. I have stones
Santa Catalina de SomozaSanta Catalina de SomozaSanta Catalina de Somoza

A charming stone village.
from the Werribee River , near my home, and I’ll leave the past at the Cross tomorrow and move on to the future.

It’s strange, but even though it’s only symbolic, the tooth incident had me worried it wouldn’t occur. I thought I would be carrying these stones forever, metaphorically speaking. It was a real consideration over something I know is not provable or even true, but I’ve now realised it’s important to me. I want to come home free of the past. To an extent.

Dinner is at the albergue tonight. It was nice last time, so I’m looking forward to OK food and good company. My washing will be done, and dry, but at €7, is a bit expensive. Travelling alone means it’s harder to pool the costs, but if that wash removes the Vaseline from my socks, it’s worth it. Besides, who can be bothered after a tiring day, when the service is offered.

Catch up tomorrow.


Additional photos below
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The Cowboy Bar, El Ganso The Cowboy Bar, El Ganso
The Cowboy Bar, El Ganso

No cowboy, but it’s a museum of western memorabilia
My BurdenMy Burden
My Burden

About 11kgs of stuff I need. Most people carry about 8kgs, so my pack must be heavy, empty. Still, I’ve carried it this far, so I will have to keep going. At the end of a big day, even my rib cage hurts. No one made me do it!
An Opportunity An Opportunity
An Opportunity

Many villages are strewn with these ‘doable ‘projects.
There’s A Crowd On The WayThere’s A Crowd On The Way
There’s A Crowd On The Way

I think it’s about 50/50 pack carriers to people getting them transported. It places many more on the Camino.
Just Before Rabanal Just Before Rabanal
Just Before Rabanal

It was rough for a while.
Crosses On FencesCrosses On Fences
Crosses On Fences

This went for a few hundred metres. Who has the energy for this. Not me.
RabanalRabanal
Rabanal

The steep hill out of town continues until Foncebadón.
The Mystical Benedictine Monastery The Mystical Benedictine Monastery
The Mystical Benedictine Monastery

They hold Vespers with Gregorian chants here nightly. No time this trip; I must keep going.
Looking Back Over SpainLooking Back Over Spain
Looking Back Over Spain

I started somewhere down there today.
Foncebadón Foncebadón
Foncebadón

An Abandoned Village, revived in the 1980’s to cater for pilgrims. It is now a unique experience, and I would encourage anyone to finish a day here.
This Place Needs WorkThis Place Needs Work
This Place Needs Work

It’s charm is in its rundown appearance
It’s Different.It’s Different.
It’s Different.

I’m staying in the Druids Albergue, one shower and one toilet for each sex. I now know how women feel lining up.


13th October 2018

Hi
We love reading about your adventure, can’t wait to hear more
14th October 2018

Thanks
It’s raining here so another long day in the poncho. Life could be worse I suppose. Meant to be dry for a week after that. Hopefully

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