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Published: October 3rd 2016
The paths after leaving Burgos
Quite flat with a gravel surface, pretty good. You were followed by the strong smell of pepper but I've no idea where it came from.
We are not really in Castrojeriz but the little village of Hornillos del Camino doesn't rate on this sites map. It has a population of 68, well , 70 if you include John and me, and a Main Street . I'm sure you could walk the length of town in 5 minutes.
We started walking at 6.35am and the first 3.9 kms were in fair light, passing through suburbs and parks until we reached tracks running along fields of sad looking sunflowers ready for harvesting, eventually leading to roads and underpasses with major highways overhead.
The first leg was 12 kms without a break to a village called Tarjados, where we had coffee and tortilla before heading to Rabé de las Calzados, 2 kms away. Up until now the walking was flat but we started climbing for the next 4 kms before starting a very steep and painful decline leading to Hornillos del Camino. I walked on the stubble in the paddock next to the track which was softer and reduced the downhill jarring effect.
Hornillos del Camino is one of the few medieval villages left intact on the Camino and we are staying at El Alfar Alburgue
, a very friendly family run establishment with a nice outdoor area, a great evening meal, and breakfast, all for €21. We are currently sitting outside in the yard with 4 Canadians, 2 Americans, a dutch lady, a young Englishman, and naturally 2 Australians. Most of these people are escaping the American elections and brexit. The topic naturally turned to Trump and the unanimous consensus is that he is a psychopath but they are not convinced he can't win. I informed them of his tax info that was leaked to the press and no one seemed to know; they are living in blissful ignorance, dreading when they have to go home. Apparently if America sneezes, Canada catches a cold. I might go for a walk, check out the town, and let some air get to my poor little toe, which now looks like it has been bleached. At least it's not infected; I hope!
Back from a walk through the village with some exciting news; nothing happens here. Most of the buildings must be empty, unless the entire population lives in one house each. The local church was closed and only a few people were sitting outside a bar
A typical scene as we walked.
Harvesting is over and this would be one of the smaller haystacks.
eating. No Camino, no Hornillos del Camino, I think. I stopped at a bar and shared a bocadillo with a Canadian lady,; she paid, I ate, and wandered back to the Alburgue. Dinner tonight is at 7pm and is paella, desert and drinks. It should be an early night and we've struck a deal with the Canadians to rise at 6am. Don't know who the other guy is in our room but he's outnumbered.
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