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Published: September 18th 2012
Hotel Via Gatica - my room 303
you can see why it is the best value in Spain, as some sayanother of those sort of whistle stops/one nighters in a town of interest. This time Burgos, and one would have to say there is one reason - yes, another Cathedral. But this is THE Cathedral in Spain I think I can say, and I am not just repeating the guide books (which do say just). Anyway got the train here from Valladolid - and am in fact writing this on the same train (number 4087 Alvia that is) as it runs from Madrid (via Burgos) to Bilbao.
I had heard from the Aussie couple from Melbourne I had spoken to that there was likely some sort of industrial action on the Monday. I did not mind, otherwise I would likely have just missed the train as I left my fast walk to the station a little tight. Instead sat on it while it "rested" at the platform for an extra 50 mins.
Anyway arrived at Burgos Rosa-Lima station and slowly realised (after a cafe solo and bocadillo de chorizo in the cafe there) that this was a completely new station and that it was miles to the north of town on the very fringe. Not a short walk on
from room 303 of Via Gatica
full frontal, not retouched in any way the south bank of the river to my hotel, near where the "old" station was, and presumably still the bus station. OK the Rough Guide is 2009 and that is what I have been mostly using for its generally very good and informed comment on sights etc. I also have a Lonely Planet older guide and Fodors/Frommers 2012 (all these in E form on my Toshiba tablet - thoroughly the modern traveller and have finally got the various features of the 2 softwares I have to use sussed out).
So worked out it was bus 43 from outside station to Plaza Espana downtown - fortunately I had messed around with coffee etc as they are only every hour but there was one in 7 mins. In the meantime spoke to an older couple from Denmark who had done the Camino pilgrimage/walk starting in France It was pretty impressive what they had done - walked 290kms in 14 days! - not sure I could manage that. They commented that they had done it before in month of May and it was much more relaxed - Sept. was too busy (and hot) and struggle to get a bed and too many
Burgos Museum of Human Evolution (??)
closed on Monday - but a good grab shot young people who were in their view "spoiling" it.
Anyway stroll to the hotel - Via Gatica. It was indeed as glorious as they all say. Drop dead designer glamorous, like a cheaper version of the Room-Mate chain where I stayed in Madrid. But at half the price - Burgos hotels are not that cheap, but this was only 50E (breakfast an extra 5E - call it 70AUD). Third floor looking directly across the river from my corner room at the Cathedral as you can see in pic. Nothing wrong with that at all!
Anyway the Cathedral was the main event. And 2 hours was not really quite enough. It has got more expensive, now 7E but you get free commentary audio. These tend to slow you down if you listen to all the commentary, which is why I generally do not like them that much. Also in the relatively low light for photography anyway (the chapels etc are of course lit) you can't really take a decent blur free pic while cradling the headset. The details of virtually all the chapels are stunning so I will let the pics speak to that. The golden staircase is a
beautiful folly and the simple tomb of El Cid, slayer of dusky Moors etc, lies under the dome. So I really had to race to finish as they were following me locking up chapels etc as we went.
After I left went up the hill a little and found San Nicholas still open - I think for a tour group - and was able to grab a snap of the altar piece before lights off and thrown out. Then wandered around town to see what I could see - often more impressive at night but Cathedrla did not seem to be lit up until later.
Dinner was at Casa Ojeda, mentioned by all 3 guidebooks so must have something going for it. It was a classic old woody Castillian room with good service. Had a simple bean soup with local morcilla (blood sausage) and chorizo in it. Then a pretty good sirloin steak with fried ham bits and a sherry sauce. Then their little lemon meringue tart with some lemon ice. Then a red tea (pu erh) - classier places do offer other than coffee fortunately. With a couple of glasses of wine this was one of the
more expensive meals at 56E-$75 but worth it. Mounts up when IVA/VAT/GST is not included in prices.
The couple on next table I finally made out were from Aussie - WA - as they were talking about getting back for the (AFL) Grand Final - I told them to make sure thay had their priorities right!
I wrote this, and edited pix, on the 2 1/2 hour train trip from Burgos to Bilbao so I got my priorities right too!
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Huddo
non-member comment
Burgos and Hotel.
Hi Mike, Wow that is some Hotel stay there, and good value. Take my hat off to the Denmark couple, some walk! The Cathedral photo's were brilliant, the ceiling ones was superb, plus El Cid flying into full battle as well. Love Huddo.