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Published: September 11th 2013
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Avila
The Walls zz
Segovia to Avila For those in the know Avila is famous for many things but one in particular the 1957 film The Pride and the Passion which starred a young Frank Sinatra, a pouting Sophia Loren, Cary Grant and a bloody big gun. The film was set at the time of the Napoleonic Era and the story centred around taking the cannon to the British forces in Avila . Having seen the film many times the walls held a certain sort of fascination and today was going to be our chance to see them.
The weekend had arrived and it was now Sunday morning. Our destination today Avila with its walled city. The journey was the usual ribbon straight roads with few cars on them. We got stuck at the first toll we came to. I pulled out the ticket and nothing happened. The barrier stayed firmly down. Backing up as there was nothing behind us I took a second ticket and this one opened the barrier much to our relief. We only travelled just round the corner and came to the toll booth which was manned and we parted with our 2 euros 35 cents. Mile after
Avila
One of the city gates mile of yellow fields passed by, a few cattle this time in them. The scenery can get a little monotonous at times as there is nothing for miles but the empty fields which stretch as far as the eye can see.
Our planned stop at Avila was on a large aire/rest area/ car park on the edge of the town. When we arrived it was almost empty with just a scattering of Spanish motorhomes who had either arrived at Avila early or had overnighted. There were no toilets there nor water facilities but it seemed peaceful and a safe place to stay particularly as it was next to the police station.
Avila is 3710 feet above sea level and is the highest provincial capital in Spain. We didn’t know that before we arrived. Our first site of the city was of its impressive walls which encircle the city and are said to be some of the finest in Europe. Having been to Carcasson, Aigues Morte, Dubrovnik and even our own Chester only time would tell if this boast rang true. We walked up the steps to the base of the walls and entered the city through one of
Avila
On the walls the gates. The city was empty, not a soul in site and we walked up hill entirely on our own. This seems a feature of Spanish towns where they don’t come to life until at least 10 in the mornings. Before that they are dead.
We spotted the main square and the cathedral. The cathedral is supposed to be unfinished. Its design unusual as it is decorated with strange beasts and scaly men. We could not comment on its state inside as the door was firmly shut. Despite much walking round it we found no way in and gave up as did others who had by now started to mill into the main square. Stallholders began to set up stalls. All dressed in medieval garb. Young maidens and men in costume making and baking bread. Pigs being cooked in readiness for pork sandwiches. Stalls selling jewellery, hand made cakes and biscuits and all manner of things I cannot remember. The smells and sounds were quite delicious. Later we were joined by crusader knights, musicians and Moorish dressed strangers – all adding to the charm of the place.
We paid 8 euros to walk the walls and managed half
Avila
The back of the cathedral of them before it got to hot to continue. The walls are divided into two areas. When you walk one half you get off and come back on yourselves to find the second entrance to the next set. They offered fabulous views over the valley beyond. Built in the 12
th century they are 1 km long and are punctuated by very unusual round barrel shaped towers on which storks nest. Memories of Alsace then with the storks.
We sat for a while with a coffee at a café yet again served without a smile or a thankyou. We think this part of Spain a touch inhospitable sometimes. Not sure why. A smile costs nothing.
There are other places to visit in Avila namely the other gates which enter the town, a couple of conventos and monasteries but we decided that we had to move on to reach our next destination Camping Regio in the university city of Salamanca.
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taracloud
Tara Cloud
Cary Grant and Sophia Loren--who'd have thought?
Wow--now I want to see the Pride and the Passion! I adore Avila and went there because of a couple of my favorites from the 16c--composer, Tomas Luis de Victoria, and writer/nun, St Teresa of Avila. I guess I'll need to come up a few centuries to catch up with you. Like you, though, I love walled cities--I guess I'll have to visit Chester now.