Day 27 Navia to Ribadero 31K

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Stayed in a Great B & B in Navia, it was a converted palace with a nice view of the river running thru the city. Traded dinner for lunch at a nice Restaurant in town and was back to the lodging by 5 P.M. ready to catch on some sleep, as the next days walk is long.

Today the weather has changed, it is already 80 degrees by 8:30 A.M. going to be a hot one today. The walk is uphill in the beginning but soon turns to flat ground. This is a first for me in Spain, I have never been able to see more than a 1/2 mile in front of me due to the constant ravines. I can see for miles, no more small farms and neat gardens, it is huge pastures or large crops of corn and wheat. A complete change from what I have seen the past 26 days. Its nice, but boring and hot, with the Camino on pavement 95% of the time no shade. Because its flat I can see lots of Pilgrims spread out over several miles. I opt for the costal route which is longer, but I am hoping cooler. Its pretty much a boring walk until the y in the Camino at Porcia, here the Camino turns toward Tapia de Casariego, it is 6K from the town from Porcia to the beach in Tapia de Casariego. The town is a small fishing village with a cute little port right in the center of town, well worth the extra miles. After a short stop for a cold drink its on to Ribadero. The Camino is well marked at this point a quite beautiful, it follows the coast line with great views a several gorgeous uninhabited playa's. I am truly amazed at the shear number of deserted playa's. Must be too early in the season, because the beaches are fantastic. About 3K out of Tapia the markings go cold again, no Camino signs. There are 3 roads that lead to Ribadero, a freeway which is fenced off, a main highway which is loaded with busy speeding traffic, and the original one lane road that the Camino follows. You can see and hear the other two roads so as long as you keep going the same direction you should be OK. The country road is a snake as opposed to the straight line offered by the freeway and the main artery. I am not liking the snaking back and forth of the one lane road adding miles, to an already long and hot day. I decide to out smart the Camino and get on the main artery which is much more direct. 40 minuets on this main artery and I know I made a mistake, its hotter, noisier, unsafe and not much straighter. So, I opt to head back to the one lane road, problem is there is no connecting road. OK, I will just walk thru the open field, the road can't be 1/4 mile toward the ocean according to my GPS. Over the field and thru the woods a shortcut I will find. Ahhh not so fast, the corn field was easy, but there is a small ravine between me and the road I want to be on, its covered in blackberry vines, no hacking my way thru this. So I turn left and follow the road expecting to find a spot to cross. My corn field turns into a fenced densely forested area. Undeterred I jump the fence and find my way thru the forest only to come to another fence, this on has barbed wire and an electrical wire indicating livestock inside. I have been observing these electric fences for 26 days, never seen one that was truly connected, always a break somewhere. I can see no animals inside and I can see a dirt road on the far side of the fenced area. Being educated about electric fences I know If you touch the fence with a long blade of grass you can feel if there is any current. I touch the fence with a VERY long grass stem, no current. OK, I jump the fence and start for the other side. Never see one critter, delighted I reach the other side and get ready to jump the fence again, all ready tested it so why do it again. 1/2 way over the fence one leg over, ZAP! Holy crap it hurt!!! It was just for a second but it stung my leg and almost stopped my heart! Dam that hurt. I limp away on the dirt road for about 100 feet only to find myself back on the busy artery. 45 minuets of hard work, the shock of my life and I am back where I started. What a dumbass. No, stopping and whining, keep walking and besides I am hearing thunder and the clouds are getting dark, it gonna rain. No Camino marking, I rely on GPS now, all roads lead to one bridge to crosses the river to Ribadero, just get to the bridge. The road winds around, under and over both the freeway and main artery, this is getting to me why can't they get the Camino marked! I finally make it to the bridge, but I cannot see a ped. walkway. I must walk the freeway over the bridge? How can that be? No time to waste, I jump the fence and start walking the bridge only to find the hidden Ped. crossing. Crap! Jump the fence again, cross a drainage ditch, what da ya know safely on the bridge. Arriving in the City I find my digs quickly, get checked in take a shower, get on clean cloths, tend to my electric fence wound and head out looking for a meal. I am somewhat disappointed that there was no opportunity to do my good deed for the day. I stop at a great Church and put all my coins in the candle lighting machines. I have been collecting coins for weeks and they were getting heavy, what better way to get rid of them than lighting candles for important people in my life. Satisfied I had done something good I leave the church and head for the city center. There is a huge park in the center of town with great stuff for kids to play on, even a baby zip line. As I am crossing the street I see a kid on a bike with training wheels heading for a parked car, I can see by the look on her face she has no idea how to stop or even turn she is frozen with fear. I run toward her, step aside and grab the seat and stop the bike. She was not going that fast, it was an easy grab. Just in the right spot, probably would not have hurt the girl or the car, but would have scared her. She jumps off the bike a runs to the now in sight Grandma. She is crying, very afraid. I sit with Grandma and the girl for a few minuets. She calms down, but vows to never ride that nasty bike again. I explained to her and Grandma, ride your bike across the park not up and down, then you can easily stop and start, stay on level ground until you get more practice. Takes a bit of coaching, but she is back riding the bike in no time, across not up and down. Lucky me, lit candles 2 minuets, later I get my chance to do something nice. Another great day in Spain!

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