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Published: September 23rd 2022
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This morning we are up with the lark. We have tickets to see the Alhambra but it’s possible there will be long queues to enter. Our time slot for the Nazarene Palace is 9.30am and we have been warned not to be late!
I am an avid reader of Philippa Gregory’s historical novels and the Alhambra has been on my wish list ever since I read ‘The Constant Princess’, which follows the life of Katherine of Aragon. Katherine, who grew up in the Alhambra, is sent to England to marry Arthur…and subsequently Henry VIII after Arthur’s death. After the sunshine of Spain, Katherine hates both the English climate and the heavy stewed food. She longs to eat salad again. There are vivid descriptions of her former life here.
It’s still cool, having only just got light, so we decide to walk. First down our very steep winding hill, then up and over to the Justice Gate.
We arrive around 8.15am. The free bits of the palace are open but none of the paid parts are…and there is no sign of any queue! Although there are people milling about. An attendant advises me that we have plenty of time
to visit the Alcazaba first - as queuing for the Nazarene Palace will be about 10 minutes only!
We are at the head of the queue for the Alcazaba which is about to open and therefore we are first in. We have the place to ourselves until a Korean tour group arrives. Even so, it hardly feels crowded. It’s still cool enough to enjoy as well.
Exiting the Alcazaba, it’s now time to join the queue for the main event, the Nazarene Palace, residence of the kings of Granada. We’re still too early so we stand aside as the 9am latecomers make their way in. One poor guy is being denied entry as he only has a photocopy of his passport and they want the real thing. He is sent off to the ticket office. Eventually he is back…it seems like permission has been granted.
Now we are through, tickets and passports all in order. The architecture is stunning. From brightly painted tiles on the walls to intricate stone carved fretwork. The complex comprises three palaces: Mexuar, Palace of Comares and Palace of the Lions, plus courtyards and gardens. The combination of marble, pools and bubbling fountains
gives it a cool feel throughout.
The gardens are filled with colour, a variety of sweet smelling roses and gardens of colourful herbs.
It’s starting to heat up as we make our way to General Life, formal gardens of the kings and added to in the early 20th century. The gardens are in the midst of restoration because the Cypress trees are getting out of control. Even so, it’s a pretty shaded walk beside troughs of water and tinkling fountains. Then, at the end, another palace of kinds. Oh, not another palace, groans an exhausted American tourist climbing in the staircase beside me!
Now we are almost done. I can hardly believe we have been here fir four hours. Time has flown! We make our way back towards the Justice Gate, stopping off at the church in the way back.
Outside the gates is a water fountain and a steep track down into Granada centre. Here we visit the Arab Quarter and find a restaurant fir a late lunch. The restaurants here do not open till 8pm so we decide to have our main meal now.
It’s getting in for 3pm and the shops are
all closing up for siesta. We locate the bus stop and take the bus back to our hotel.
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