Levoca and Spis Castle

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Monday July 8 – I am currently on the train to Spis Nova Ves, and from there I will take the bus to Levoca, if all goes well. My original plan consisted of me staying three nights here, because I thought it might take me a day to get to Levoca, then I wanted one day in that town and one day as a daytrip to visit Spis Castle, the real reason for coming. Now I think I may have enough time to see the town today and the castle tomorrow, so maybe I don’t need three days. Or maybe I can take another day trip to Kostice, the second city of Slovakia and one of the two European cities of Culture this year. Or maybe I can go and stay the night there and then go back to Bratislava the next day as planned. Or maybe I should go from Kostice to Budapest, an easier connection and stay one night and then go to Estergrom the next day. Or maybe I should spend three nights in Budapest and then take the next two cities as day trips from there. This might be a good time to mention that travel is a lot of work. There are so many choices to make and so many bookings to make for sleep, and this after all of the research of where to sleep based on time, location, price and reviews. There’s also the hassle of trying to work out the best way to get from here to there, both for time and money. I spent a lot of time making a schedule for this trip, and it is somewhat flexible but only within the reservations I’ve already made. So I try not to make them too far in advance, but there is also the possibility that there is nothing good left when I do book, especially in the summer. But in this case, I have a reservation made for three nights here and then one in Bratislava which I may or may not be able to change. So I can’t buy tickets at the train station for my next destination when I’m there today, because I am unclear of what that destination is. I have just spent an hour on the train trying to figure out the best way to do all of this for the next week. An advantage of going to Budapest is that the connections are easier, I’ve already been there, so I am familiar with it and won’t have to sight see there, and it will be my birthday so I can treat myself to a nice meal easier. Disadvantages include everything being a day trip to and from a big city, so that will take more time and money and I will have to find a new place to stay. So many choices.

I decided to get off the train in Poprad, one stop before my original destination. I thought the bus connections to Levoca might be easier from here. I arrived quite a bit later than I thought, and then got the bus at 1:30pm. I arrived in Levoca around 2pm and went off in search of the old town and my room for the night. I had to ask a few people to make sure I was going in the right direction to the center, but it was fairly easy and then obvious once I found it, as the old town of Levoca is still surrounded by the old city wall. I walked to my room and was shown in. It’s part of a large family home, with additions and another building connected by a large garden with fruit trees. It was a small room with shared bath and two beds for 10 euros a night for the one bed, or 12 euros for the room. I went for the whole room. Oh, the joys of not being poor. I can upgrade my budget bed to a budget room! Once I got settled, I started walking around the town to see the sights. It is quite a small town, so I was pretty sure that this day would be enough to see the sights, even though I was getting started so late. I bought a ticket to visit the cathedral, which was only available at certain times, with a max amount of time of 30 minutes. I waited outside with a handful of others and we were all let in together. I was given an info card in English and read about the church. Much of it, including the main alters, are from the 1400s. There is a really large alter, around 60 feet high, that everyone comes to see. Sadly, there is some reconstruction taking place, and the alter is not visible right now. No pictures were allowed inside the church, which seems a bit mean, since you have to pay to get in. But there is a 50 euro fine, so I was not about to take my chances. Next to the old town hall is (oddly) a cage for naughty children that was used some time ago. Hilarious, yet frightening. There is a church about 2 km from the town that you can see on a hill. It is a popular pilgrimage church, and I thought it would be nice to walk there. I started out on the sidewalk next to the road, but that ended at the cemetery. So instead I walked through the cemetery. I have always enjoyed walking and taking pictures in cemeteries, for some reason. I didn’t have a chance to eat breakfast before I left and I arrived too late to have lunch, so I just waited it out until dinner. I walked back to the bus station because that was the only place I had seen a grocery store, and I bought a few things for the next day, including a sandwich. That sandwich did not make it until the next day however, as I decided that I was far too hungry when I got back to my room and not so interested in a restaurant. So I skyped with my grandma and ate my sandwich and it was very delicious indeed. I also skyped with Jeroen and friends from Florida who had just arrived in Europe and would be staying in my apartment for the next three weeks. Originally the would have the place to themselves and look after the cats, but Jeroen will be home unexpectedly now, so they will be sharing the place. But luckily the cats still have him at home. J

I have also decided to sleep here two nights, sleep in Kosice one night, cancel my reservation for Bratislava, go to Budapest for three nights, and do day trips from there for a couple of days. (in case you were worried)

Tuesday July 9 – Today was a great day. I woke up early, hearing some of the other people in the building getting up early, but it was probably better for me timewise to get up a little earlier than planned. I was reading last night about the castle and was worried I would not have enough time there somehow. I love castle ruins and was really excited to see this one. It covers over 4 hectares and is the largest castle in Slovakia. Some of it has been reconstructed. Last night I bought 10 eggs, the smallest package available, but I only needed two to wash my hair (I know, I know). So today I boiled the others to make a portable lunch and some breakfast for the next couple of days. I took at the bus at 8am and it took about 25 minutes to get to Spis Podharie, the town that the castle is just outside of. It sits on a hill above the town, much like Trencin. It took me a few minutes to try to find the way to get there. I had to find the parking lot for the castle and then hike up from there. It was a great hike and took about 30 minutes. Another beautiful weather day, and no one really around, which felt special already. As I got close to the castle entrance, I could see (and hear) a German tour group. There is another parking lot without the hiking, and this is where the tour groups start from. But I was able to keep ahead of them most of the time, so I still had the castle to myself, for the most part. I walked around the castle, getting higher and higher, until I was at the top of the tower. From there, I went back down and headed out to the lower parts of the castle, the grounds. I sat down to eat a snack and watched the gopher like animals running around the yard, darting from place to place. I’m not sure what they are, as the sign called them “spermophiles”. Indeed. After that entertainment, I walked around on the castle walls that were accessible. There was only one couple out there, and the rest was just mine. Really amazing to be in such a special place, and be nearly alone. As I was walking around in the sunshine, I was struck by the question that a few of my students had asked me. They wondered where I was going for the summer, and when I said eastern Europe, they asked why I would go there. I wasn’t sure what to say. I mean, why would you go anywhere? To see it. And there was so much to see here.

After my wall walking feat, I decided to leave the castle. It was only 11:30am or so, which surprised me. On my way out, I peeked into the audio guide office. When I got to the castle, a guy told me that audio guides were 10 euros, which was a bit too much. But looking in, I saw that they had a 10 euro deposit, which you would get back if you returned it within 90 minutes. Bummer. Maybe I would have learned more. But, it was also nice to just walk around and enjoy as well. I walked back down to the town and explored there a little. There was a Luthern church that was closed but said to check at the information office to see about going in. So I did. And the woman just grabbed a big key and let me in right then. We were the only ones, and she gave me some background on the church and the organ. It does not use electricity. Instead, someone has to pump air into it while you play. Pretty cool. Next stop was the Spis chapter, a Catholic area that was a kilometer away, uphill. I got there around 12:30 and went to buy a ticket to the church, but the office was closed until 1pm. So I sat in the shade and ate my lunch. At 1pm I bought a ticket and was shown in. I was the only one this time, unlike in Levoca. I read about the church – from the 1400s – but it felt weird this time as she was just waiting for me. I took some pictures and then walked back to Spis Podradhie. There was a bus there for Levoca when I got there and off home I went. I stopped in the info office after an ice cream and asked about getting to the pilgrimage church. She showed me the path to get there on a map and I did that next. This time is was 2km uphill, but pretty steep. It was a beautiful walk, under trees, and again, I had it to myself. It took about 40 minutes to get there. The church itself was not as beautiful as I’d expected, but the views were great. I walked around the grounds and then laid down on the grass under some trees. It was such a nice day. A few minutes later there was this epic boom. I could feel it pass over. I have no idea what it was – a bomb? A cannon? But either way, life went on as normal afterwards. Strange. Back in town I stopped once more in the info office to ask about buses to Kosice. Good thing I did. It required a change at another town, and I would not have known that had I not asked. Back at my room, I paid and asked if she would call to reserve me a room in Kosice, at one of the cheaper places to stay that had no email address. She was able to do it for me and also asked if I’d like to upgrade my room for free, as a group of 9 were coming in and she expected them to be loud. She put me in a new room with my own bath that was in a different building from the others. That was great. I went a little early for dinner as I was starving from all the activity of the day. I had potato filled dumplings, like ravioli. Yum. But somehow I managed to splash one back on the plate, getting oil all over my shirt and shorts. Tried using corn flour to get the oil out, as suggested by some friends. I’ll have to see if that works*. If not, I also bought Eucalyptus oil to try. Shame – it was my first time wearing this shirt.

*Update - corn flour works!

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Photos

Cemetery
Do you see that church on the hill? That is where I went.