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Published: August 8th 2006
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Is this what I have to ride on?
There is a road on the east bank of the Volga - and it looks like this! Day 65, 4th August.
Kalac na Donu - Volgograd - Primorsk
Today was to be a day of great changes… We headed the 30 miles into Volgograd stopping for bread, cheese, eggs and milk on the way. Scott made a good roadside find; a Soviet passport complete with leather holder and 1,500 roubles! I don’t know what he’ll do with it. At the Volgograd sign we made a stop for photos, then headed for the centre, ending up right outside the Hotel Volgograd where we thought Toby may be. Rory checked, and he was there! Toby had had the chance to see some of the city yesterday and took us down to the steps overlooking the Volga river - it’s massive. There we had a beer and an unexpected round of decision making.
Toby had bought a train ticket to Ufa, then Rory admitted he couldn’t push 100 miles a day to Chelyabinsk, Scott agreed he couldn’t either, besides - he had his visa to sort out. They asked me if I’d consider taking the train to Ufa, then cycle as a group over the Urals to Chelyabinsk. This would mean missing out 500 miles, and more than
Oh my God!
If you think this was bad, you ought to try cycling on dust! This was one of the better roads on the east side of the Volga river. that, a defeat of what this trip is all about. My decision was absolute inasmuch as I was cycling the whole way, even alone if needs be. And so it was decided, I would be alone now until Chelyabinsk. Before I left the group, I had a look at the destroyed mill, all that is left of the devastation of world war two, a big Lenin, and a monolithic statue of Mother Russia. We all drank coffee, then I left, heading north over the Volga dam then to the east side of the river and on northwards through flat grasslands.
I managed to do a further 50 miles since leaving the guys, I had mixed feeling about being alone also. On the one hand, I felt sad that the others weren’t able to do the whole trip, and on the other a kind of release, I felt a bit guilty because of this feeling, but now I could do whatever I wanted to do without thinking of someone elses abilities and sensitivities. I found a good spot to pitch in the trees - and then was truly alone.
Total Miles: 3355.05 Todays Miles: 82.65 Average speed: 11.1 Time
Russian Market
Typical scene, where you can buy anything from Halva to Armaments. The AK47 was too big to conceal on a bike, however, I toyed with the idea of buying a pistol for US$80. on bike: 7:26
Day 66, 5th August.
Primorsk - Bykovo - Kurnaevka
Animals around my tent kept me alert last night. I packed up as the sun rose and found my first real puncture on the front tyre and quite easy to repair in-situ. The road was straight and the scenery was to remain the same throughout the day giving me the impression that I hadn’t covered any distance! There was one shop where I stocked up on chocolate and nuts. Other than that, there were the Asiatic-looking melon sellers, many from Kazakhstan - barely a hundred miles to the east. I was on the doorstep of Asia!
As I headed north I noticed that the west bank of the Volga consisted of hills and cliffs all the way - a kind of natural Euro / Asian boundary I thought. The wind still blew strong from the north, then the east, and at one point fro behind, but generally it kept alternating. I was making good time and mileage in the late afternoon until… the road ended at a ferry crossing, not listed on my map…. I had to wait for ages.The ferry was free…
Volga badlands
Typical of the scenery on the east side of the Volga. Taken south of Samara. and massive! I got into lots of conversations about where I was from, going to, etc..
On the other side I followed the road for a few miles until I clocked up 100 miles then found a place to camp in the bushes, a nice place. Being as the road was near the ferry port, it was so quiet. An eagle landed in a tree not 30 feet from me, and watched me curiously as I cooked. It was a bit spooky it not being afraid - an omen maybe? As it went dark around ten, I fell asleep.
Total Miles: 3455.72 Todays Miles: 100.66 Average speed: 11.6 Time on bike: 8:37
Day 67, 6th August.
Kurnaevka - Engels - Marx
The beginning of another week. I had a great sleep last night and was ready for a days cycling alone. I covered 118 miles today along what can only be described as ‘an interesting road’. At first it was lovely and smooth with a vehicle every 10 minutes. Then it turned into the worst road that I have ever cycled on! Not even dirt or sand… it was dust! Dust that covered every
Russian Roads
One in five cars are white Ladas. Is it any wonder I originally got paranoid that the same whit Lada was following me all the time! part of me and my bike. It was good that there had been a spot of rain, otherwise it would have been hell when vehicles passed. After 15 miles of this I was on bumpy roads, then a bit smoother, then pre-fab concrete slabs, bump, bump, bump! I made it safely to the town of Engels, after my paranoia about white Ladas following me earlier. I came to the conclusion that one in five cars are white Ladas. After finding the road to Marx, I stocked up at a ‘magazin’ and did another 20 miles before camping just off the busy main road.
It’s been interesting seeing the vegetation changing as I head northwards, the trees have grown taller from the scrubby grassland and bushes earlier today.
Total Miles: 3574.06 Todays Miles: 118.33 Average speed: 11.2 Time on bike: 10:29
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