Blogs from Siberia, Russia, Europe - page 9

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Europe » Russia » Siberia » Taltsy May 31st 2013

Awoke to my final day in Russia not feeling too well but was unable to contemplate spending my last day in Russia in bed, plus I had been saving Taltsy as I was so keen to go there. So set off for the marshrutka and was there by mid-afternoon. Taltsy is a small town between Irkutsk and Listvyanka, and the reason for my visit was the wooded village there. The website is entirely in Russian but from what I could gather it was created as a way of preserving traditional architecture for posterity, so many of the structures there actually used to elsewhere and were moved to Taltsy at various points in the past 40 years or so when they fell into disuse. Other buildings there, however, were just built new in the traditional style for ... read more
Taltsy
Taltsy church and chapel
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Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk May 30th 2013

Irkutsk is one of Russia's more attractive cities and felt more European than I had expected. It was pleasant just to walk around and appreciate the architecture and green spaces in the sunshine. They also have a fountain similar to the one in Piccadilly Gardens, that spurts out of the ground at intervals and with varying intensity, and with the same consequence as the one in Manchester: lots of children running through it and getting drenched. Irkutsk also has a famous example of the wooden house, the House of Europe, which is particularly elegant. Like most Russian cities it also has a promenade along the river (complete with a fairground), but Irkutsk's is again especially pleasant with lots of interesting churches, theatres and so on. I passed a very nice day just wandering around.... read more
Sights of Irkutsk
House of Europe
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Europe » Russia » Siberia » Listvyanka May 29th 2013

Today I travelled to Listvyanka, a small town on the shores of Lake Baikal, very geared to tourists (I saw my first coach party of the whole trip here!). Normally it would be beautiful, but unfortunately the weather was atrocious, probably the worst day of the whole trip so far - unremitting heavy rain and strong winds. Because of the weather and because the view was so limited, it felt like being by the sea rather than by a lake - there was no sign of the other side, just endless water, and typical seaside weather too. I am, however, staying in the best hostel I have been in the whole trip - the Baikaler, quite well known, many travellers I met along the route had either stayed or were planning to stay. It is new, ... read more
Rainy Listvyanka port
Banya (in sunnier weather!)

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Lake Baikal May 29th 2013

Thankfully the weather today was absolutely beautiful and there were stunning views over Lake Baikal. I was surprised to see snow-covered mountains on the other side! I hired a bike to explore. Overall it was a good way to see the shores of the lake, although there is no circular path to follow around Lake Baikal (yet - they apparently are gradually developing a single trail), so when you try to follow it around in either direction you eventually end up either at a dead end or on a very fast road that leads away from the lake, so I couldn't have a really long bike ride (probably for the best - it is some time since I last rode a bike). The best part of the day was finding a near-deserted cove on the shore ... read more
Views over Lake Baikal
Views over Lake Baikal
The road away from the lake

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk May 29th 2013

More beautiful weather by Lake Baikal, so I spent the morning walking up and down the shore and to the local market, where they sell omul, the famous local smoked fish, which I found absolutely delicious. I also saw many teenagers dressed up and wearing red sashes and posing for photographs - many of the girls looked like they were wearing a version of the French maid's outfit. I later discovered they are school leavers celebrating their final schoolday - in Russia this is the same date every year, and all across the country. It was impossible to tire of the beautiful views across the lake, but I had to return to Irkutsk, so set off mid-afternoon for the marshrutka.... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk May 28th 2013

Today I visited the preserved home of Prince Sergei Volkonsky, one of the Decemberist exiles. These were men and their families who were sent to Siberia as punishment for their involvement in the Decemberist plot to overthrow the Tsar in the late 1800s. The home very much focused on the experience of Volkonsky's wife Maria, who followed him into exile along with their children, and in fact petitioned the Russian royal family tirelessly to be allowed to live there privately with her husband and family. Maria was used to being a society lady in Moscow, but was banned from attending any society events elsewhere (even in Siberia), so consequently held many parties at her own home. As she was an accomplished and wealthy woman, the result was that her home became one of the centres of ... read more
Piano in office room
Maria's winter garden
monument to the Decemberist exiles' wives

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk May 28th 2013

My first task in Irkutsk was to pick up my ticket for onward travel to Mongolia from the travel agents I bought it from; unfortunately, this proved to be a much more complex task than I had anticipated, as the office was buried deep in the suburbs of Irkutsk, way off the tourist map. Russian addresses are notoriously difficult to find at the best of times because the address consists of a street, a corpus number, and an apartment number - sometimes a corpus that is listed as being on a particular street is quite a way back from the actual road, behind a number of other identical Soviet-style blocks. This was the case with this address, and after a couple of hours of searching and asking various locals who responded by saying that this particular ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Novosibirsk May 26th 2013

I was taking a 7pm train from Novosibirsk, so most of today was spent packing and preparing. I did squeeze in a visit to the art gallery, which was preparing for "Night Museum", an annual national event where many museums open at night and have extra events. Unfortunately I will miss it (and the Eurovision Song Contest, which no one in Russia seems very bothered about) as I will be on the train. The art gallery is not bad, but not one of the best Russia has to offer, and is dominated by a collection of strange, psychedelic paintings - lots of purple and orange - of landscapes, especially the desert. I have forgotten the name of the artist, as I was not that bowled over. The weather was absolutely atrocious - continuous heavy rain all ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk May 26th 2013

The train journey I took from Novosibirsk to Irkutsk was 32 hours long: a night, then a full day on the train, then another night and arrive in Irkutsk early morning. This was the longest train journey I plan to make, at least as far as I have planned ahead! Apart from sleeping, I occupied the day with reading, staring out of the window, eating and listening to music. I enjoyed it for the first few hours but then started getting a bit stir crazy around 4pm in the afternoon. There was only one other person in my kupe carriage, an older Russian lady who spoke no English, so we traveled along in comfortable silence, or so I thought, until she started playing "Troublemaker" by Taio Cruz on repeat on her phone. After 15 or so ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Novosibirsk May 26th 2013

Today was my last day of studying at the language school, and we were given a test, which I hadn't been looking forward to but was actually quite good for seeing progression. Then we had a small presentation with a certificate, present and recommendations for how to improve in future, and a short round of applause, which was nice. In celebration one of the fellow students, who is Spanish, offered to cook us paella. Eating it made me realise how lucky I am at home to have access to so many different cuisines. I feel like I have exhausted Russian food and in Russia there is not a lot else available. There's pizza and pasta (though it tends to be a Russian take on it), sushi (there are many sushi restaurants in Russia and it is ... read more




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