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Published: November 17th 2014
Today we slept in as my phone did not adjust it's time, and and the alarm was hours away from going off; I think it was a soviet plot personally. We had breakfast at Zoom Zoom, an interesting little cafe just around the corner from us. It was actually about 15 minutes away but I think I'm adjusting to the Tim and Natalia Timezone where everything is underestimated, to lull you into a false sense of security.
After breakfast we walked through a few backstreets and went to a local market which no tourist would normally visit. It sold all the things real Russians needed at the right price. It was like busy Asian market meets mafia sort of tone and I'm sure the roaming security guards were there for a purpose. This was a very old market and due to be renovated next year. Come back in two years and it will be on the tourist trail. I do worry a bit for the current stall holders, as they will probably be moved out with no compensation, and then invited back at a new rental system. I've read where in Moscow once, people were given a fortnight's notice to
relocate (with no alternative) as their apartment block was being levelled. If you chose not to move, you were levelled too, or thrown out in the street and only your possessions levelled. It was worth a look and as it was a rare glimpse at Russian reality for us 'palace' dwellers.
One of Tim's hangouts from his study time in St Petersburg was next on the agenda so we crossed a couple of canals, strolled along the edge of one, and before long ( T&N Timezone) we were standing in front of the Galitzine Palace. This now houses the library for foreign languages and Tim used it as a reference library during his time here over 10 years ago. It is a beautiful building and we were allowed into a room where some young girls were having a lesson. There is a family connection to the British Royal Family and the Galitzine's and there is a plaque and picture commemorating a visit and donation by Prince Charles proudly displayed. It was a room from another time and these students looked nothing like uni students you see in Melbourne. Their casual is almost our formal and it looks very impressive.
The Bank Bridge
It's meant to bring luck if you rub the wings.This was also an opportunity for a bathroom visit, as St Petersburg has no free public toilets, and paying at a cafe for coffee each time you need a bathroom just seems too me to be replenishing the problem. It's a vicious cycle!
We visited the Cathedral of the Icon of Our Lady.of Kazan, as seen from our table in the Singer Cafe picture, and watched as people queued to pray at and kiss this revered icon. It is modelled on St Peter's of Rome and was built in 1811. During the Communist era it was used as a Museum of Atheism but was returned to its religious purpose in 1999.
Next was a much anticipated visit to the Church On Spilt Blood, built to commemorate Alexander the Second's assassination at the hands of the Revolutionaries on March 1, 1881, on this very spot. His carriage was blown up after two failed earlier attempts on his life. He had become very unpopular due to reforms his government had introduced and well, revolutionaries don't muck around.
Th Church On Spilt Blood is said to have the most mosaics of any church in the world. Largely funded by the
The Bank Bridge
Crosses one of the many canals Aristocracy, it was commenced in 1883 and is completely mosaic inside, in a colour palate which defines description. The floors and alter pieces are an amazing hand selected range of marble and rare stones and the external domes, all 1000 sqm of them, are coated with jewellers enamel. it is also decorated with plaques depicting the 25 years of Alexander's reign. This church is a highlight of our visit to St Petersburg and has to be seen to be appreciated.
That evening we had a light dinner at a local cafeteria where the main food is various types of pastry filled squares, very cheap and filling. I had a mushroom one and shared a local berry one for dessert. This really was just around the corner, so when we finished we hurried back to our rooms to get ready to see the St Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra at the Bolshoi Zal Theatre.
I was a little dubious about this, and was hoping the building and wonderful spectacle of it all would balance out my disinterest in this style of music. This is your champagne and caviar style and I am prepared to go public that I am a 'meat
The Prince George Galitzine Library
Located in the Countess Carlow Mansion, started in 1994, it's for foreign language students. These girls are having a class. and three veg' type of guy when it comes to music.....not too complicated please. I do have an open mind however, and as it was Tim's shout, I have nothing to lose but sleep.
When we arrived food was available, yes, champagne and caviar but also the local version of meat and veg, and the crowd was a very mixed group. In Russia, this is not a common treat but it is far more viewed than in Australia. This is general entertainment. These are not rock stars on big money but rather, entertainers just doing their chosen work. And the crowd is a little similar. We were seated 3 rows back, in the centre, and the stage floor is at head height, so you can imagine it's right in the thick of the action. The musicians came out, to applause, and we had the full string section in front of us. The wind instruments, harpist, and drums were not really in our vision. The conductor arrived, checked our tickets......sorry, that's a tram,......tapped his baton, and we were away.
It was absolutely mesmerising. To watch how certain instruments are introduced, at times hitting just one note, stopping and starting
Prince George Galitzine Library
Housed in the old Galitzine Palace shortly after, and seeing the emotion, or lack of it, on the performers had me enthralled. These really are just ordinary people, passionate about their chosen profession, doing their best for us, the audience, and themselves. Their was a short intermission and they returned to finish the evening to a strong applause from a grateful crowd. The clapping continued to the chant, "More! More!" But the conductor was having none of it. The performance was over and we all spilled out into Art's Square, much the richer for having been there. For me, it is refreshing to see people who are genuinely passionate about what their life's work is; not because of financial rewards or what it can do for them, but just because it's their dream to create this music, and you could really see it in them. We went for a coffee and I spotted one of the violinists climbing on a bus, probably going home. It was a busy, but great day and we ticked off a couple of major things on the St Petersburg To Do list and look forward to more tomorrow .
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