Idyllic St. Pete's

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RUSSIA

Russia for me conjures up images of grayness, of communism, and thoughts of the Cold War. I guess more recently I think of the Yukos Oil debacle (whose head is now entertaining the idea of running for Parliament from jail) or of the war in Chechnya. None of these things painted a particularly rosy picture in my mind, and additionally I had heard that Russian people were generally quite rude. But there is a mystique about Russia, something that was drawing me there, and fortunately the negative has turned out to be entirely unfounded.

I arrived in St. Petersburg on a gray day, just like many of the others that followed; that did little to diminish the grandeur and beauty of this former capital tsarist city. When I first stepped out of the subway on my way to my hostel, I literally couldn’t help but release an awe-struck “Whoa” as I was greeted with the spectacular image of the Kazan Cathedral, and since it was early Sunday morning when I arrived the streets were nearly deserted giving St. Petersburg’s long and impressive avenue Nevsky Prospect an even more dramatic feel. In reality, the entire city is a joy in which to walk around and discover. The architecture, which is definitely European, breathes a freshness that you many times don’t get in Western Europe, but it is interspersed with more traditional architecture of Russia as is illustrated in the Church of Spilled Blood with its spiraling, multi-colored, candy-cane-striped domes. Then if that wasn’t enough to impress me, there are canals and rivers slicing through the city and the islands that compose it adding some Venetian flavor. Of course, the world famous Hermitage art museum should not be forgotten; it is flanked on either side by impressive governmental building and is accentuated by the large square which in the middle has the giant Alexander column jutting impressively into the sky directly in the center—the entire atmosphere is supremely Imperial. And, amid all of this great imperial ambience, I discovered a great ex-pat bar run by Aileen, a former New Yorker who I can only describe as a crazy hybrid of bar owner and mad scientist with wide, piercing, darting eyes. For some reason that combination works well for her when it comes to whipping up a mean burger and fries with homemade apple pie for dessert, and in American-size portions of course. I know, I gave in, my willpower wavered, and I wanted a little taste of home, but I think I’ve been gone long enough to allow myself a few guilty pleasures, especially since Russian food is nothing to write home about (no pun intended).

Maybe you’re curious about the Russian people; they are rather a curiosity in themselves. Here is St. Petersburg you see a spectrum of all types of people. There are people here that have, and have a lot, driving their black Mercedes or BMW, parking wherever they please, flashing their money wherever possible, and who seem to constantly be accompanied by their anorexic, high-cheekboned model girlfriend. And right next to them you have the hunched grandmother begging for Rubles, or the struggling student playing her violin illegally on the street for money hoping the police don’t come and run her off. (I came to find out this is very much the case in Moscow as well except to a greater extent.) In this sense, St. Petersburg is an intriguing and diverse people aquarium, where sitting back and watching the interactions around you can be as interesting as looking at the spectacular selections of art in the Hermitage.

So once again I found a place where I would like to stay a little bit longer, a place to return to, and see again with new eyes, but as my friend Dilyara is becoming impatient with me for delaying my trip to Moscow, I will get on yet another train and move to the next destination.

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Photos

First Look at St. Pete's
This was a part of the view I received when I stepped off the metro onto Nevsky Prospect. Not a bad first glimpse of the city.

The Church on Spilled Blood
This is a fascinating and opulent place that is situated almost on top of a canal just down the street from the previous picure.

720 hours
This was a really cool installation of Tea Bags that was on display at a comtemporary art museum. Titled 720 hours because that's the total amount of time it would take to brew that many cups of tea.

IMPERIAL
This is a small, and I stress small, taste of Peterhof where Peter I had his summer or vacation palace. It's huge and it's Gold and Green.

This is a bit of the top really
So what do you think old Peter would think about when he took in this view of his palace when he woke up in the morning and took a stroll in the gardens?

Garden View
At Peterhof again!

Comments

[Vicky]

Great pics
There's nothing like a hamburger when you're that far from home. I'm really enjoying your blog. Isn't it great to have that technology? And your writing style is so vivid and readable. I'm always happy to see your blog entry pop up on my email list.

[Pete]

Yeah, went to that bar and met Aileen there too. Had a great time. Nice bar, nice people. I think the name is City Bar if I'm not mistaken.