One night in Moscow


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Europe » Russia » Northwest » Moscow
June 30th 2012
Published: June 30th 2012
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After pulling off the near miracle and arriving into Moscow last night, I made my way over to the hotel to meet up with Jenn and my colleagues, Sergey and Tatiana for dinner. Sergey is well versed in my affinity for Georgian food, so he chose a traditional Georgian spot nearby. Sadly, we don’t have any Georgian restaurants in Houston (to my knowledge). Of all the former Soviet republic cuisines that I’ve tried, this is my favorite. We had a feast of red beans (lobio), chicken in walnut sauce (satsivi), grilled meats (shashlyk), cheese bread (khachapuri), salads and desserts that I can't rememer the name of. Many people are familiar that Georgia is well-renowned for their high quality red wine. You can easily find it good liquor stores back home (e.g., Spec’s), but NOT in Russia. Due to political tensions between the two neighbors, Georgian wine is banned within Russia. So instead, we opted for the Azerbaijani kind that also comes in a clay bottle, rather than glass. After sufficiently satisfying our Georgian food cravings, we bid our friends adieu and headed over to the Kremlin and Red Square just after midnight.

Any visit to this oldest part of Moscow is incredible, but seeing everything illuminated under the spotlights is even more surreal. As you approach through Alexander gardens, the massive, impenetrable surrounding walls of the Kremlin remind you of the mystery and might of this former super-power during the Cold War. The towering smooth red stone walls of this fortress give way to a series of uniquely designed towers; some adorned with massive glowing red stars. You pass by the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and its lonely, eternally burning flame before turning right toward Red Square.

Nothing really prepares you for what awaits at the top of a slight incline once you enter the massive square. Next to you on the west edge is the atypically and simply named Historical Museum. Considered alone, this giant construction of red-brick with dual spires would be easily photo worthy. But here it grounds you as your eyes take in the twinkling adornments of the opulently designed GUM or State Department Store on the North side and then the Kremlin walls to the South, along with Lenin’s pyramid-like mausoleum where he lies in state. These two longer sides of the square focus your eyes on the real treasure, St. Basil’s cathedral. Perhaps the world’s most iconic onion dome topped structure, the color and detail of the nearly 500 year old sanctuary are awe-inspiring. You never want to look away.

But then you find yourself standing in center of the square with conflicting emotions. To the south, the Kremlin walls and Lenin stand looming, reminding you of the State’s power and control. It’s cold and intimidating. Behind you at GUM you see excess wealth in the form of ultra-high end shopping while the adjacent museum surely (read: maybe) addresses some of the poorer times in Russian history. And then there is the whimsical, St. Basil’s cathedral which appears to be on loan from Disneyland. It’s a strange mix. But it works. Because like many countries, Russia’s history is a strange mix, and here at the heart of the city, a mosaic of the times has developed over the years and adjusted to fit modern day needs.

Perhaps that’s why Moscow is such an incredible place for foreigners to visit. Prior to arriving, there is definitely an antiquated misconception formed by years of being taught the Soviets were the evil empire, then watching the collapse and subsequent restructuring of the former Soviet republics. Compound all of that with the steely and imposing persona of the country’s leader over the last decade, Vladimir Putin, and one has no clue what to expect.

But the reality is this is a place where new opportunities are continually emerging and people are pursuing them with unrelenting focus. My Russian colleagues are some of the hardest working, intelligent people I know. They are the most gracious hosts, who are eager to show you their country and dispel any dated inaccuracies that might be lingering. That said, it’s a busy place, and people are in a hurry to get on with their lives. Combine that with the over-generalized (but still relevant) assessment that strangers in Moscow are not quick to smile at you, and it can seem like a cold city. But get over that, learn some Russian phrases, and realize Muscovites are just as curious as about you as you are about them. It makes for a great place to visit, and I can’t wait to come back. Perhaps next time, I’ll show up with a valid visa so I get to enjoy the full duration on my trip. But for now it’s off to St. Petersburg. Bolshoi spasiba, Moscva.

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30th June 2012

Mmmmmm
Yuuuummmmy cheeesy bread. Can never go wrong with that. Seems like almost every cuisine has something similar!

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