Put Your Hands Up For Moscow

---

They say that Moscow never sleeps. There is a popular Russian song “Ya lyublyu tebja, Moskvaaaa”. Moscow is the capital of the Russian Federation, by the way. They also say that Moscow is not swayed by tears and that Moscow was not built in a day.

I’ve never been for more than one day in Moscow. This is of course a city which needs no introduction and no advertising, so my story will be just an account of what and when I saw there, and my emotions. It’s too overwhelming and big a city for me to feel comfortable there. In St. Petersburg I feel much more comfortable and there were times when I felt St. Petersburg to be my second home.

No doubt, I like Moscow’s sights, but generally the city looks very disordered, it does not have any harmony in its layout, as the St. Petersburg’s centre definitely does, and its large size and the immense population make it a hard city for me to live in. I would lie if I say that I dislike Moscow, but my general view is that the bigger a city is, the more people there are, and the more potential violence and evil it has. I might be mistaken of course.

I usually use Moscow as a transport hub for my visits to the hometown and abroad. It’s very convenient.

The first decision to visit it came in August 2008, when I was heading for my hometown by plane and decided to go to Moscow from St. Petersburg by train, devote a whole day to sightseeing, and in the night I would fly to Ufa. The first trip took place on August 20, 2008. I had the intention of visiting Red Square and Kremlin in the first place.

Though, actually, I first saw Moscow (its train stations only) in July 2007, when I went from Ufa to Moscow and then to St. Petersburg by train. Already then I was astonished by its greatness, mainly the size of the buildings.

I very clearly remember my coming to the metro station close to the Red Square and getting a bit lost – I didn’t see the square itself. So, I had the map and tried to determine my position. Finally, I found my way and had the first glimpse at the Red Square. I did not go there at once, I went first to the fountains in front of the Manezh.

Being in Red Square for the first time is a most exciting thing. I’ve heard some people telling me they disliked the Red Square because it was too small and too narrow. I completely disagree with them. Red Square is like a heart of Russia, and does it really need to be wide and big to carry that connotation for the Russian people? Anyone with a historic background knows that Red Square saw many important events in Russian history. It’s not the size that matters in this case.

Kremlin is a must-see for anyone visiting Russia. I’ve seen several Kremlins in Russian cities, but none is as impressive as Moscow’s Kremlin. There are some churches inside the Kremlin. Its walls and high towers really show the might of the Russian Empire. Russia has had many bitter moments in its history like the law of serfdom, uprisings, wars and revolutions... Well, I’m digressing. There is no country with a perfect history.

On the Red Square, I was simply shocked to see the large and luxurious-looking buildings of the Russian Museum, the Gum, and the Spasskaya Tower. I have some goose bumps recalling those first views. Back then, I was not yet accustomed to the large-scale architecture and sights. I’m lying now, because I was a bit accustomed, having spent more than a year in St. Petersburg. I find St. Petersburg remarkably different from Moscow. Actually, it is different.

I walked inside Kremlin for less than an hour. I saw the Czar Pushka and the Czar Kolokol and was glad to find some shady areas under the trees with flowers and a small fountain. In Kremlin, a very interesting thing happened in my mind. I saw a tall building looking exactly like the Moscow State University building and decided that it was close to the Kremlin (be careful, now you are reading about a person’s most stupid behaviour) and that after Kremlin I would go and find the Moscow State University. Ha-ha… It’s a bid sad to recall this stupidity. I, certainly, knew that Moscow University was located on the Vorobyovy Gory and I knew that Vorobyovy Gory were not in the centre of Moscow. How strange my then behaviour seems to me now… In the map, there were marked some Moscow University-related buildings (like a separate department, I suppose), so that’s might have confused me. I agree that it was the highest degree of stupidity on my behalf.

Well, today I’ve spent one and a half hour together with my future girl friend and am in a very happy state of mind. You see, I have to go to my hometown to do some things related to my translation activities and then I’m planning a huge trip. I simply want to note these emotions and feelings now, so that in future I could read about them. It does not have any relation to Moscow whatsoever. Yesterday we went to the cinema and I felt her to be such a dear, lovely, and immensely tender girl… I am realizing now the magic and the greatness of the moments and events, and I’m looking forward to my coming back to St. Petersburg after the trip. I feel such warmth inside my heart and soul. Skip this paragraph, will you, if you’re bored with such romantic stuff. (I leave this piece unedited for the final version of the story).

Back to Moscow. Having decided to find Moscow State University (I am silently laughing at myself), I went in search of it. I was really serious and passionate about it and was very disappointed and bewildered on having found no Moscow State University near Kremlin. How come, thought I and looked a billion times on the map. Finally, I got tired and decided to go to Arbat. Or, perhaps, I have realized my mistake.

I’ve forgotten to say that before searching for the University, I went to see the (my choice of adjectives leaves much to be desired) magnificent Temple of Christ the Savior. I’ve never been to Taj Majal, but the view of the temple evoked this association within me. The temple stands on the river bank and there is a pedestrian bridge from the temple to the other bank. Quite a romantic and inspiring spot.

A sight which I remember from school history textbooks – the Pashkov’s House; I saw it while searching. Next was Arbat, to which I went by metro and it turned out that I actually did not go by train, but had to make lots of crosses to reach the desired station. It was a four-station junction there, and one of them led to Arbat. I walked on Arbat and had a meal. I’ve heard people telling about high prices in Moscow, but that turned out to be less serious than I imagined (concerning the simple food and simple drinks, certainly).

Oh, next I found myself in front of that very building which I mistook for the University. They look very alike in appearance. It was some Russian Ministry, I remember.

Walking in this big city consumes your time and efforts very, very quickly. It has also to be noted that the first experience of a huge subway is also sort of test of the physique and orientation in space.

After Arbat, which is not surprising, I went to Vorobyovy Gory by metro, hoping to see the University at last. I did not know anything actually about Vorobyovy Gory that time and went out at a wrong station and saw no University again. I gave up the idea and ate some watermelon. You might suppose that I did not enjoy the stay in Moscow because of all this, but actually I was very pleased by what I saw. It is Moscow, and I presume it can offer any attractions for people with different tastes. I still had many hours before the flight and no batteries, and no money for new batteries, and almost no strength in my legs so I just went near the forest and sat there musing and ICQ-ing. I felt tired but satisfied.

My second visit to Moscow was in autumn 2008, when I decided to walk from the Red Square to the Three Railway Stations Square. It would just fit the time between the trains.

I came to the Red Square and walked round the Kremlin enjoying its walls and towers. That was a period of virtual sympathy to a girl in Krasnoyarsk, so I felt very romantic. I saw several parks and monuments (the Chistyye Ponds, for examples). Now I remember the people I saw in the park – they all hurried somewhere, definitely not enjoying the park. On the whole, the walk took about 4-5 hours. I noted the Moscow’s complete mixing of modern and old buildings in that area. In St. Petersburg, for example, they try to preserve the historic centre unaltered, and it turns out well, while in Moscow they build anything wherever they want. Such was my impression.

The third visit to Moscow, 31.12.2008, was completely different from the first one. In end of November or beginning of December, a girl of my acquaintance suggested meeting in Moscow and having a walk there on 31 December. She lived in Krasnodar and wanted to come to Moscow to see the rock band BI-2. I never say that I dislike this or that style of music, but there are some styles to which I listen less often, than to electronic music, for example. So the idea was that we would walk and eat, then she goes to the concert and I just stay in that club. However, things turned out such that I bought the ticket and visited the concert as well. Later the girl said she was very happy about that New Year. I should warn you readers that it was no love affair and there was no intimate connection between us.

I came to meet the girl at the airport; her flight was delayed by some thirty minutes. I was rather sleepy because I came to Moscow at about 8 o’clock in the morning and the flight arrived only at about 12 or so. I had a pizza at the airport while waiting. The prices there shocked me, but now I’m completely accustomed. It was our first meeting in real life, so I felt a bit embarrassed, but we got along well and talked much.

Well, there seem to be so many memories connected with my travels. I would like to refer you to the narrative about Krasnoyarsk, for you to have an idea of my mental state during that time. On December 24, that protagonist girl of the Krasnoyarsk story gave me the fluff and found a different man for herself. Gee, I was so stupid back then. I would advise people not to try to find love via the web. No doubt, good persons are everywhere, but bad and stupid ones are also not uncommon. I tell this, so that you could imagine my turbulent state of mind during the walks in Moscow on the New Year’s Eve. I’m such a mess, I’ve started disliking any holidays and feasts now. The girl with whom I walked in Moscow was a psychologist by education and so, I poured my story all over her ears and got some good advice. Though, details escape me now.

We had a walk round the Red Square, and then a meal in Okhotny Ryad. I remember taking the spaghettis. This is the most important thing in writing all this – I’m remembering so many details of my past. The concert was to start at 24-00, just as the clock strikes the New Year, and it would last for 2 hours.

They did not let us enter the club so early before the concert, so we had to walk a bit. It was the Sadovoye Ring. The venue was a small club. The group performed live, and for me it was an unforgettable experience: the guitars, the drums, the vocalists, etc. The girl is a fan of that group and also Mylene Farmer. I mean the girl is a fan of Mylene Farmer, and I like her stories about her going to Farmer’s concerts in Paris (twice).

The band performed successfully. The concert over, we had nothing to do but to sit in the club and wait until the metro opening hour. The girl slept, her head on the table; I sort of watched for any male beasts not to disturb her. It’s not that I want to offend anybody, it’s just the fact that there may be male beasts in a club searching for females you know for what purpose.

At five in the morning, it was time to leave the club for the subway. I saw a male beast trying to touch girl’s asses. Such shit, all this. I was very worried about my companion. It’s no good fighting, let peace and love rule on this planet.

We went to the hotel. I didn’t book a room in the hotel, but the girl invited me to be her guest. Those were hard times. It was about 7 o’clock in the morning when we entered the hotel, but check-in was at 12. We drank some coffee and had some salad. Then, the waiting began. It was hard because we didn’t sleep the whole night. I felt awful, something inside my stomach was wrong; but then, fortunately, I managed to fall asleep for a short while. Finally, we went to the room and I slept there. It was the 14th floor and I made a remark that it was a perfect floor for suicide. Joking, sort of.

In the evening, I took the train to St. Petersburg. I bade farewell to the girl and we parted. After some time, I thanked her for the experience and she said I was ‘a splendid man, so tall and with brains’. It was sort of consolation for me. That’s a remark which pleases one’s pride. Call it amour-propre, if you want.

This girl is also mentioned, I suppose, in the story about Abkhazia where we tried to see the mountains but failed. So, there really is friendship between man and woman, no doubt. Sexual lust of one of the parties is what spoils the friendship.

The next visit to Moscow was very short, just spending several hours before the train. It was January 13, 2009, shortly after the New Year’s visit. I was going to my hometown. Since I had little time, I only walked in the vicinity of the railway station, to the Sokolniki Park, and then came back and sat in the train and slept.

The next visit was rather a long walk, though the time of waiting between the trains was the same 5 hours. On March 15, me and my friend (we rented a flat together in St. Petersburg) left St. Petersburg for a long period. We went to Sadovoye Ring and had breakfast in a small café. Do you like Russian borsch? It’s one of my favourites. I took many photos of my friend.

All in all, we saw Lubyanka, China Town walls, Gostiny Dvor, and then crossed the Moskva River Bridge and went along Yauza River. The Kremlin looks so … … … … (insert the necessary superlatives here) when seen from the bridge.

Gee, I am having so much to remember about Moscow! It’s five pages in the text editor already, fine!

17 April 2009
Walking before the train to Sochi. Nothing special, just a short walk on Sadovoye Ring. I saw some interesting buildings and churches. It was cold in the morning.

On May 12, 2009, I again came to Moscow. It was part of the Kazan-Moscow-Kursk itinerary. I went to Kazan for sightseeing, and to Kursk – to attend a conference on Russian literature where I delivered a report concerning gender-related issues in literature.

In Moscow, I went first of all to see the Moscow State University. Finally! It is such a great building! I only saw it from a distance, because my time was limited and also wanted to see some other sights. The scientific heart of Russia, where many a young mind becomes full-fledged scientists.

To a park along the Moscow River I went, but I did not understand, on seeing its guarded entrance, whether it was free of charge or not. So, I did not enter the park.

There were stormy clouds and rain was about to fall very soon. I took the metro to another station to see the Poklonnaya Gora. Indeed, when I went out of the metro, the traces of the fallen rain were seen everywhere. Fortunately, I wasn’t caught in the rain – I had no umbrella. Poklonnaya Gora is one of the most impressive and greatest monuments I have seen so far. There is a tall stela, the height of which in meters equals the number of the days of the Great Patriotic War. There is a chapel, many fountains surrounded by tulip flowerbeds. The whole complex is rather large in size.

Next, I went to the open air museum of war vehicles and equipment, to see some tanks, aircraft, the famous Katyusha, etc. From there, I could also have a glance at the Moscow City skyscraper complex being built, which is supposed to be, if I have the right information, the tallest skyscraper in Europe.

My next intention was to walk the Boulevard Ring, but first I had to find an umbrella because it rained. I saw some umbrellas on sale in the undercrossing and had to find a cash dispenser, which took me a while. Here is your umbrella, please. It was lovely in the rain. I like rains when my feet are not wet and I have an umbrella.

I went to Kursk in the night.

Just yesterday night I completely cancelled my next big trip, and no one will ever know what I planned. There was nothing quite special, of course. There is so much trouble cancelling one’s air tickets. Why don’t they just return the money? Aeroflot Russian Airlines yesterday cancelled my booking very quickly, but I’ve lost about 60% of the initial sum. Another airline, today, asked me to send them copies of my passport and the card. I will do it later, because today I am leaving for my hometown. Back to the point, I thought about the relationship and decided that it is not the wisest decision to leave my girlfriend now. However, we decided, and she suggested that I really should realize my plan. I myself decided to cancel the visit to several capitals I wanted, and maybe, funds permitting, I will still go to my favourite destination. I want immensely to please the girl. I don’t want to go mad and crazy missing her. That trip was planned for at least 5 weeks, and back then I did not believe in happiness, now I do.(written on March 9, left unedited).

On May 16, I returned from Kursk and walked in the Moscow centre. This time I took a map and tried to see almost all the churches within the Sadovoye Ring. I was pleased with the result. They are rather old churches.

After seeing a number of religious sites, I decided to go and see the Ostankino Tower and VDNH (Exhibition of the achievements of natural economy, now perhaps called the Exhibition Centre). The Ostankino Tower was not seen to its full height because of the rainy clouds. Then I had a unique experience of my whole life – going by monorail to the Exhibition Centre. The centre is very large and it takes time to walk there. I also thought of walking straight to Sokolniki Park, but thought better of it.

Random thoughts: If this is not LOVE, so what’s LOVE then? It’s very interesting how people can distinguish between the real love and the non-real love, and how professional they are in speaking about sympathy vs. love, etc, etc. And how do we call it when a man thinks about the girl all the time and need her badly? An open question for me now, but time will tell. I am going to St. Petersburg again on March 28 for rather a long period this time. I’ll most likely not travel abroad during the next months, but I certainly plan to see some of Russia. I have also cancelled some of my other plans.

Speaking of Moscow, by way of conclusion, I would like to say that my own overall impression of it is a mixed one, awe with the uncomfortable feeling. Will I feel uncomfortable in such a great city as New York or Mexico? We’ll see it in the future.

---

Photos

S7301136
Many Different Churches