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May 10th 2006
Published: May 10th 2006
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Hello

I found a driver in UB, Mongolia. Muj was his name and he, I a guy from France, and two girls from Switzerland hit the road for 10 days. We explored central Mongolia and most of the Gobi desert.
Muj had a Soviet jeep/van type 4-wheel drive type vehicle. It fit us all plus our packs and food for part of each day. Muj knew nomads and families along our way so we would sleep in Gers or camp each night and sometimes they had extra food. We gave them some money which was much needed.

I loved this trip. We had such a good time. We all were great friends by the end of our time. That many days and nights together. So many great things to see and do. I don't have the time to write it all down here.
Mongolia is the least densly populated country in the world. I thought the U.S. had the most wide open spaces where nobody dwelled but no, Mongolia takes the cake for the last frontier in Asia.
The country and its people and culture just made sense and felt really good to exist in. I love their ways.

The country is beautiful and vast. Only the mountain regions have any sort of real trees/vegetation.

Only a small bit of the Gobi is actually sand dunes although what does exist is impressive.
We hit a small town four days into the trip to find petrol and some water. Then the last day we spent in Karakorum, the ancient capital of Mongolia (under Chinggis Khaan).

We got back to UB and my russian visa had already started but i didn't expect to find a ticket for the Trans-Siberian railroad that soon but i got one a day after getting back. So i took it.
I got all Muj's info and took his advice and will head back to Mongolia during the perfect time and he will take me and whomever is with me or i meet in UB and is interested to the west near the Kazak/Chinese/Russian border lands. That is where he grew up and can take us to the real deal. All this after the festival. A month total. Next year or so.
It was so sad to leave me friends. Even Muj. Like a dad to us he was. Partied with us.
Leaving Mongolia was sad but i know i will be back.

I traveled the 5 days by train across Siberian Russia. Fascinating. Remnants of the Soviet past still stink and much is left in decay. Siberia is a forsaken wasteland. A vast amount of natural resources. Timber and oil. The stockpiled remains of what was to be used if the cold war ever came to be. Now just rusting away. Industry burns progressively as you move west. The people are weathered and winter lasts a long time out here.
Your life becomes the train and all the people on it become entertainment. You meet so many people and very few speak English. In my cabin (4 per) there was a man in his 30's and his daughter and a professional trap shooting Mongolian who could speak perfect German and russian. So i could communicate through him speaking german. I met another american on board and we hung out a lot. Noah, from austin but lives in Santa Cruz (in a bus) among the tree people. Very cool guy. In his cabin was Jim, a veteran of many wars and spends his life wandering the Earth. And i mean wandering. He just drifts and hasn't been back to the states in over 2 decades. No ties to keep him from doing anything. He has done and seen it all. Almost 80, he had many stories. I'll tell you one quick one. While walking across Africa (took him 3 years) he was almost executed twice. Chained up and about to be burned alive by natives he talked his way out of it. How?? i asked the same thing. But some tears rolled down his cheeks and through his long white beard so i left it alone. He spoke when he wanted and was warmed by food and beer offerings. He told me much about Turkey which is where i head to this next week.
He has been everywhere and has seen it all.

The trip seemed to go by so quickly. I heard of people saying it was boring. ??????? Never. Never. Old Mongolian families feeding you biscuits and tea and russians pouring you vodka like its water. I did meet one Russian guy, a soldier in the russian army. Yeah, after showing him the pictures i had, he says Hi Jill.
I learned a lot from him. He was on leave for a month to mourn the death of his mother. I learned what that age/generation thinks. Interesting insight into that life.

I got into Moscow. A huge city, rich in history which now gorges on capitalism. I like this place. For the few days i will be here. Much to see and do. People watching takes on a new definition here. Brother, Colten you wouldn't believe it so i won't even explain.
Yesterday was Victory Day. The national holiday.

I will head south by train in a day or two. I need to get to the Black Sea coast. From there i can catch a boat to Turkey. So i will talk to you there i guess.


I hope you are doing well.

Love Jonathan









































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