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Published: October 9th 2007
Nyhavn
Picturesque harbourside promenade seen on many Copenhagen postcards.Denmark - famous for Hans Christian Andersen, as being the setting of Hamlet, and err....emo band, The Rasmus. Ok, we'll forgive them for that...maybe.
We were not originally planning to go to Denmark, or indeed even Scandinavia at all - so our last minute decision to travel to the first of four new countries we have never been to before left myself and Davies with a strong sense of anticipation.
We had heard so much about how expensive things are in Scandinavia - so back in Hamburg, we bought two six packs of beers and a bottle of vodka to take with us over the border in preparation, which cost us about 20 euros. It meant that my bag was heavy as though, as I struggled to lift it on to the luggage shelves inside the train.
The first thing I discovered when plugging in my iPod for another long train journey was that in the process of offloading some songs on to Albina's laptop, I had managed to wipe my entire iPod. Gutted. Luckily though, I was to be in London in just 10 days time where I can reload it, so I wouldn't be without music for
Kongens Nytorv
Main square (or circle) next to Nyhavn. too long. It was still a pain though as there is absolutely nothing to do when you sit on a train.
Fortunately though, this train ride had a bit of variety, as it involved a short ferry ride across the sea from Germany to Denmark. We weren't exactly sure what this involved and whether we had to take all our stuff off the train and onto the ferry, but our questions were soon answered.
At Puttgarden, on the northern coast of Germany, our entire train boarded the ferry. Handy!
We then got off the train and went up to the main floor of the ferry, where there were a variety of shops, an outdoor observation deck and a gazillion geriatrics. I know they really like boat cruises, but this was still a little peculiar, as this cruise was only 45 minutes long.
Of particular interest on board was the duty free shop which was absolutely crawling with people desperately stocking up on wine, cigarettes, liquor and beer by the caseload, before landing in one of the most expensive countries on the planet bar the UK and Monaco (and as we were to find out later, Sweden). The prices weren't particularly
Radhaus
Copenhagen's town hall. cheap either, so we were happy we had stocked up beforehand in Germany.
When we landed in Denmark, it was simply a case of getting back on our train carriage and continuing on to Copenhagen. All very efficient.
When we arrived in Copenhagen, the first thing we noticed was that it was at least a couple of degrees colder here than in Hamburg - about 10-12 degrees.
Another thing I noticed were the number of guys with shaved heads - let's hope they aren't skinheads! There are also quite a few Asians - albeit most of them are tourists, but there are quite a few of them who are locals, although Denmark doesn't seem to be the most cosmopoiltan place.
Our hostel was about a 10-minute walk from the train station, which was nice and handy.
The Danhostel was pretty easy to find as well, as it is a massive 15 story apartment building converted into a hostel. A self-proclaimed "designer superhostel", the place can sleep 1020 people, and is Europe's largest youth hostel. On entry though, perhaps we could take the "youth" out of "youth hostel", as all the folks enjoying a very expensive Carlsberg in the super-swanky
View From Our Dorm
The Danhostel did have a good view of central Copenhagen. The tall tower on the right is the Radhaus, and the second block up is the old and famous amusement park, Tivoli. hostel bar were well into their 50s.
The place was pretty flash, and had even had it's own buffet cafeteria.
Our first time in Denmark, we were expecting things to be pricey - and with our first exposure to Danish prices being this hostel, we were freaking out. We had already determined that we would be paying 135DKK (Danish Kroner - the Danish, although part of the EU, have chosen not to switch to the Euro. 1€ is roughly 7.45DKK) a night for our dorm (roughly 22 euros) which was OK, but the prices they were charging for everything else was quite simply, exorbitant. Sheets for your bed were an additional 60DKK (8€ - sheets are free anywhere else in Europe), breakfast was the same, and the buffet was at least 100DKK (14€) and internet was roughly 6€ an hour. We didn't dare find out how much a beer at the bar would've cost.
Our room was the 14th floor and was very nice, with it's own clean and modern bathroom. The view was pretty good too, as it looked out over a couple of the main sights in Copenhagen, namely the amusement park Tivoli (which costs 40€ at least
Tivoli
Entrance to the famous old amusement park. to have a decent time at - so we passed on it) and the Town Hall (Radhaus). Thankfully the hostel had a kitchen so we could self-cater to save some cash.
So the place was nice and comfortable - but we resented the pricing in particular, and the corporate fashion in which the place was run. Most of the guests were older, and were staying in many of the private rooms here (hotels are probably too expensive in Copenhagen) that it felt like a hotel (please note that I don't hold anything against old people, I am mentioning them simply as an observation ;-)). This is supposed to be a youth hostel, but yet they were charging you prices that most "youths" can't really afford for things that are provided free at most other hostels around Europe. It felt like they were trying to suck the money out of their older clientele. The hostel, though part of HI (YHA), is owned by corporate hotel firm DGI-Byen, which may explain part of it.
Needless to say, all these factors didn't help to create a cool hostel atmosphere at all.
Our first trip to the supermarket revealed the true extent of
Sydhavnen
The biggest canal going through Copenhagen right next to our hostel. On the left is a big, black, glass building which is the Royal Library. Nicknamed "The Black Diamond", the building also houses a concert hall, bookshop, cafe, exhibition space and a restaurant. Danish prices. I would describe the pricing here as being at the top-end of what you would expect to pay for basic items, but not over-the-top. But yes, it is slightly more expensive when compared to the rest of Europe. The exchange rate is much the same as the Croatian Kuna - except the price labels here had many more "kunas" here it did in Croatia.
We had no Danish kroners, and the supermarket didn't take credit cards so we had to make a mad dash to the ATM. It's the first time I was using a currency other than the Euro since I left Croatia, so converting prices in my head was a bit taxing at first.
After setting off a couple of smoke alarms at the hostel while cooking dinner, we settled for a early night after our exploits in Bremen and Hamburg, despite the fact it was a Friday night.
After our usual late start the next day, we did a bit of a walking tour in a bitterly cold Arctic wind. I was really wishing we hadn't left Spain now.
In saying that though, I mean no disrespect whatsoever to Copenhagen. In fact the place
The Royal Theatre
Opposite Kongens Nytorv Square. The "bubbles" in front of it were part of an exhibition going on at the time. is gorgeous, and is probably on my top five list of most beautiful cities that I have visited.
As mentioned in earlier blog entries, cities with canals have that much more character and Copenhagen is no different. The area around Slotsholmen is beautiful with it's stately royal government buildings surrounded by elegant canals and your classic cobblestoned streets.
We then went onto picturesque Nyhavn, a street lined with many cafes and restaurants right on the edge of a canal from which many tourist cruises and excursions leave. It is definitely a nice area, and although the wind was cool, the sun was out, so many people were enjoying a beer and an open sandwich outside under the umbrellas with cafe-provided blankets wrapped over their legs.
Was a bit too pricey for us modest travellers though, so we instead grabbed a "Bofsandwich", a small Danish-style hamburger from a street vendor in the neighbouring main square (shaped more like a circle) Kongens Nytorv. The square, like most of Copenhagen is elegant, dominated by a well kept garden in the middle where a statue of Christian V stands. Also around the square were heaps of big plastic "thought" bubbles with resource-saving ideas inside
Stroget
The longest pedestrian shopping promenade in Europe, apparently. them as part of an conservation exhibit. We then walked down the flash, main pedestrian shopping street Stroget, to the Radhaus Square before heading home.
It was Saturday night so of course we had to sample Copenhagen's famed nightlife, so in our dorm room which was completely empty, we started warming up (because it's so cold here) with our pre-bought vodka (because it's so expensive here). After almost finishing the the entire bottle between us, we felt we were warmed up enough to tackle the town.
We walked back to the Radhaus Square as it serves as a central bus station of sorts and hopped onto the bus to take us to Rust, one of the big nightclubs here in Copenhagen. Unfortunately, none of the clubs here are centrally located. About five minutes into the bus journey, we realised we were going the wrong way, so we hopped off and caught the next bus back to Radhaus Square. We were then able to catch the correct bus and drunkenly got off at the correct stop. Perfect. Only to find out Rust was closed. Great. So our next desination was Vega, the other big club here in Copenhagen, also away
Radhaus Square
Main square in central Copenhagen where the town hall is. from the centre of town.
Somehow, we managed to work out which number bus to catch from Rust, the right direction, the closest bus stop for this bus, before catching it and getting out 50m from Vega. The fact we managed to do this while almost completely off our face, in a city we have never been to before without getting lost in any way, has convinced me that there is no way anyone can beat us in The Amazing Race ;-)
Once inside the nightclub, we were absolutely blown away. Never before have we seen so many beautiful girls inside a club. Guys were outnumbered almost two to one, and every single girl in here was simply gorgeous. We have been told that Danish girls are hot, and now we can definitely confirm that ;-)
Guys - I wish I had got some photos for you, but I was too busy trying to stop myself from drooling - it's not a good look ;-) We still must've looked pretty dopey though, like kids in a candy store.
Not only were the girls here hot, they were also very friendly. I would just go over and approach a posse
The Little Mermaid
This small bronze statue is way overrated. of girls (of which there were so many I had trouble deciding which posse to go and talk to) and they would have no problem having a chat, a dance or drink with me - and they all spoke English too. One of the best nights out on this trip.
I thought there would be a little bad blood between the Danes and the Swedes but it appears that this is just a myth.
The DJ played "Silent Shout" and "We Share Our Mother's Health" from Swedish band The Knife, among the heady mix of retro, house/dance and motown that was being played that night, and I was talking to a Swedish girl (who needless to say, was also hot) who had come over the water from Malmo, (which is so close to Copenhagen, that a bridge actually connects the two cities and countries) who said she comes over all the time for the great nightlife and to visit her many Danish friends here. In fact she said can still get home to Malmo when the night has finished.
When the club closed we managed to walk our way home, but not before grabbing a kebab from "Azad's Kebabs" and
Amaliensborg Slot
The Royal Palace. asking directions from yet another hot, friendly Danish girl ;-)
I didn't wake till 3pm the next day, but had no problems chomping down cheap cornflakes a few hours before dinner time.
We then decided to hire a bike to do a quickstop tour of the city's main sights.
We were hoping to find a couple of council funded bikes that are found at many of the millions of bike stands around the city, but couldn't find any as they were all in use. I guess renting a bike all day for 20DKK that is refunded once you re-park the bike is a good deal. The cheap bike rental place at the main train station was closed, so our only option was to rent a bike from our "designer hostel". With only three hours of light remaining, you would've thought that we might have got a discount off the all-day price, but no, the place has to make a profit you know, so we handed over 100DKK (15 euros) plus a 400DKK deposit for use of the bikes.
The first stop on our cycle tour was Christiania, the famous lawless and "self-governed" commune that was set up by
Christiania
Entrance to the commune of Christiania. I had to respect the residents' wishes of taking no photos, thus this is the only one I could take. a bunch of hippies in the 70s. In fact at it's peak the police would not even dare to venture in there, despite the roaring and well-known drug trade that was taking place inside. Since then the police have cracked down hard on the area and numerous raids have been made, meaning that Christiania is no longer what it was.
Inside, the place is almost like a shanty-town, full of old, almost derelict huts that house shops and cafes. Graffiti art is plentiful as are "no photo" signs, meaning I had to keep my camera firmly in pocket. Needless to say, the crowd that hangs out here are alternative to say the least, but the place really has a unique, cool, chilled-out flavour to it, and I can imagine a lot of friends back home who would find this place really cool, much as I did.
Next stop was the royal palace Amalienborg Slot, where Australian woman cum Danish princess Mary Donaldson and her husband Prince Frederik, live.
After that, we hit the Gestion Fountain and The Little Mermaid statue. Because of Hans Christian Andersen's famous fairytale, this is one of Copenhagen most visited sights, but it's all a
Christianshavn Canal
Christianshavn is the very nice, upmarket neighbourhood where Christiania resides - total contrast outside to what is inside the commune. bit ridiculous as the statue is tiny and is probably the most unremarkable sight in Copenhagen.
We then stopped by the imacculate grounds of The King's Gardens, where Rosenborg Slot, an old royal palace is situated.
Finally, we headed back into town to the Rundetarn, the oldest functioning observatory in Europe, built in 1642.
It was a great cycle, and the perfect way to take in Copenhagen's quite beautiful surrounds. The mix of stately neo-classical and grand neo-renaissance buildings, as well as the canals makes Copenhagen a beautiful city, perhaps underrated in many ways by many travellers.
Our cycle tour brought to an end our time in Copenhagen, which we both definitely enjoyed.
Our next stop is Stockholm - where I'm sure we will find more beautiful sights, beautiful times, and of course, beautiful girls ;-)
Vi ses!
Delek-Delek
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Carrie
non-member comment
ya, denmark was really beautiful eh? I did find it expensive as well but apparently sweeden, Norway and Finland especially are the most expensive. All my relatives that i visited there said that they never go out to eat at a restaurant because its so expensive. Its also really pricey to buy a vehicle there too. lots of people just train. Apparently if the Aussie princess can learn danish- we should be able to as well! cheers