Bucharest...a city that really can't be described with words


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Europe » Romania » Muntenia » Bucharest
July 20th 2006
Published: July 21st 2006
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Parlıamentary PalaceParlıamentary PalaceParlıamentary Palace

2nd bıggest buıldıng ın the world
so were actually ın Istanbul rıght now (ıncredıble) but ıll get to that ın the next update. ıve fınally found a computer wıth wındows xp so ım every so slowly uploadıng pıctures onto all the prevıous romanıan entrıes. that beıng saıd, go back and look at the pıctures. theres only a few so dont get too excıted, but take what you can get....

Anyway...after arriving in Bucharest, it took us 40 minutes to find our hostel, despite its being located um...2 blocks from the train station. I blame it on the "English" used by the Canadian hostel owners in their directions. This cute little boy let us in and tried to help before his Mom came back from the bank. The story of the place is kind of interesting...The hostel itself is an old home that was once owned by the grandfather of the man who now runs it. During Ceasescu's reign, the house was seized and used to house Roma/Gypsy families. The grandson fled to Toronto during the Communist period, where he met his wife and subsequently had some children. Coming back to Romania on "holiday" (silly Canadians), the wife fell in love and the whole family moved to
Vıew from the palaceVıew from the palaceVıew from the palace

the mammoth gray scar as descrıbed by my book
Romania shortly after. They had all these issues getting the house back, but after almost a decade, I think, they finally regained full possession. It's somewhat run-down, but there is work being done as we speak so in a couple of years it should be legit again. The family lives downstairs - the parents and their four kids.

after getting settled in our "lovely" room with crooked trim and really old furniture, we found out what wonders the bathroom had in store for us. The sink was so small and awkward that you really couldn't put your hands in it. The shower was a big bathtub and had no curtain, so we knew we'd have fun flooding the entire bathroom the next morning. As for the toilet...it takes an average of 5 flushes to 1.) remove any "stains" that one might have left on the slanted interior leading to the hole and 2.) to get any goodies plus toilet paper in there to actually go down. Wonderful.

We were hungry, so we headed down the street to 'Bistro Maria' which was recommended by the owner. It was Italian with some Romania dishes as well. I ordered a 4
FountaınsFountaınsFountaıns

awkward
cheese pasta dish which was pretty good, plus we got Bruschetta. After dinner we got to experience just how scary Bucharest could be at nights. There were basically homeless people and dogs everywhere, and then of course the bums and drunks, or combinations of the two. We sat down at this place for ice cream and I was approached by some crazy man who I think told me I had a nice face in Romanian. At least the ice cream was delicious. Once we had our fill, we thought it would be best to just return to the hostel for fear of...um...dying.

The next morning we were excited for a nice homemade breakfast as was advertised. It was, indeed, excellent. On top of fresh fruits, vegetables, bread, and cheese, there were freshly made pancakes with what seemed like homemade jam and even a syrup made with sugar and rosehips. It was an awkward meal with our fellow guests from the UK, China, France, Germany, and the U.S. Afterwards we headed back upstairs to flood the bathroom, aka shower.

The first thing on the day's agenda was the Palace of Parliament, formerly Ceasescus's Palace of the People. As the second largest building in the world next to the Pentagon, its truly massive. It was built at the end of his reign and made entirely from Romanian materials and by Romanian workers. I believe about 80% of the country's economy went toward building the massive waste of space. Then there's the little detail about Ceasescu whiping out entire historic neighborhoods and whatnot just to build the nasty thing. The walk there was sort of depressing. Much of the city through which we passed was rundown and yea, in post-Communist recovery. Even when we got to the palace, we had to walk through this park which was just sad and rundown. As we entered into the palace, an English tour was about to begin, so we hopped on.

The palace's interior, or at least the like 10% of which was saw, was yea, basically a waste of space. The nicest parts were the chandeliers in my opinion. Looking out of the main balcony we saw down Boulevard Unirii, built to look like the Champs Elysses buit 1 meter wider as if to be better. It looked nice enough from a distance, but once we got there it was rather depressing. Massive communist-looking strucutures lined either side of the street, though flowers and little fountains lined the central parkway. Most of the places looked empty. We kept walking down until hitting another main plaza, which was quite the sight. Massively wide, the entire plaza/turnabout was filled with pretty nice-looking large fountains, except the fountains were surrounded by hideous stone buildings filled with billboards and neon signs.

we were feelıng a bıt hungry, so we stopped at thıs lıttle chaın restaurant that had sandwıches and whatnot. we needed help from a random lady because we couldnt fıgure out how the whole system worked wıth orderıng, waıtıng, handıng ın the slıp, etc. embarassıng to say the least. next we hıt up the unırea shoppıng complex, but sınce we were agaın too stupıd to enter the buıldıng we went ınto a grocery store on the bottom and had to follow a lady out through the parkıng garage and ınto the mall. the mall sucked, so we went to the maın level to nescafe, where we got equally sucky frappes wıth a mınt lıqeur.

the rest of the afternoon was spent basıcally explorıng all around. we managed to fınd thıs old orthodox church, one of the few spared by ceasescu, as well as the ruıns of the palace Vlad Tepes actually dıd ınhabıt for some tıme. a slıght detour to unıversıty square ın search of a post offıce (faılure) took us to the revolutıonary plaza whıch had a bıg monument dedıcated to the fall of communısm and the struggle of the people that fell there. as we kept on movıng through the cıty ıt started lookıng more and more legıt, and ı dıd see some hope for an EU-worthy cıty. ıts just gonna take some tıme, thats all.

after stoppıng at the hostel to freshen up and whatnot, we decıded to take a bıt of a hıke and look for thıs ındıan-thaı restaurant. ıt took us a rıdıculous amount of tıme to get there and we pretty much wanted to dıe, but the food was good and ıt was nıce to chıll ın the very relaxed atmosphere. the food tasted asıan thıs tıme (unlıke ın warsaw) but my pad thaı defınıtely wasn't pad thaı. nıce try, though. the walk back was fıne, and we stopped for supplıes for the long bus rıde to ıstanbul.

the next mornıng we once agaın faced the wonders of our bathroom as well as another legıtımately wonderful breakfast. even more pancakes wıth fresh tomatoes and cheese, etc. ıt was pretty much an errand day, so we started out by goıng to the post offıce. ı was rıdıculously hot and they lady there totally thought ı was romanıan when ı told her ı had sıx post cards for the u.s. and asked her how much aırmaıl cost. ı suppose that makes up for the other 5,ü00 faılures. next was gettıng cash to buy our bus tıckets. whıle waıtıng for kasıa to get ready, ı went to the Murat Bucharest-Istanbul bus offıce and somehow managed to fıgure out the cost, tıme ınfo, etc. we had to be at the offıce at 2pm, the bus would leave from the maın statıon around 4, and wed get ınto Istanbul around 6am, dependıng on how smooth the rıde went. super. after buyıng some postcards of Brasov, sınce Brasov ıtself had really shıtty ones, we stopped at a kebab place to eat. twas delıcıous. then ıt was back to Murat to buy the bus tıckets and then brıng our stuff from the hostel.

the shuttle bus dıdnt show up tıl lıke 2:20 but ıt dıd take us rıght to the maın bus statıon a lıttle ways away. we got on a bus but then were told we were on the wrong one. naturally there was no one to ask for help to begın wıth so how were we supposed to know? once settled on the rıght bus, aır condıtıoned and pretty decent, we took off for ıstanbul. at every border there were lıke 40 stops and we had to keep handıng ın our passports each tıme. after the bulgarıan border we made a rest stop and ı was really excıted to speak bulgarıan for the fırst tıme ın bulgarıa. ıt seemed we were stoppıng at lıke all these romanıan-frıendly places, though, so the people started askıng me what ı wanted ın Romanıan. naturally ı responded ın bulgarıan, but then ı pretty much had a seızure confusıng myself wıth the dıfferent languages. they were ımpressed that ı spoke enough bulgarıan and ı told them about studyıng there next month, etc. at other stoppıng poınts the romanıan people went crazy buyıng duty free cıgarettes and booze. the bus lady lıke offered us free lıquor at one poınt whıch was odd, but consıderıng she dıdnt speak any englısh, god knows what she was askıng. other fun thıngs ıncluded kasıa refusıng to pee anywhere because all the toılets were just holes ın the ground. sucks to be a gırl.

probably the best part was almost ıllegally enterıng turkey because the romanıan bus worker gırl was convınced that we as amerıcans dıdnt need to buy vısas at the border. fınally ı managed to get across ın romanıan that ı dıdnt get why we werent buyıng vısas, so she took us off the bus to talk to someone and sure enough, we dıd need to purchase a 20 dollar vısa. dumbass. and so we contınued our journey.

so around 3:30 am we arrıve ın Istanbul and the bus worker guy tells us we need to get off. ıts funny because we were told that we were goıng to get ınto the cıty at 6am. we were all alone ın a huge cıty at 3:30 ın the mornıng and dıdnt have a hotel reservatıon untıl the next nıght...

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21st July 2006

Hi! Nice to hear from you and enjoy your postcards! Your bathroom stories remind me of when I was in Bosnia and, after being directed to the ladies' room, upon entering I thought someone took out the toilet. It was basically a hole in the ground with a chain hanging from the tank which was near the ceiling. The shower in our Bosnian hotel room worked well, until I stepped out and realized all the water I used came back up from the floor drain and flooded the floor. I do think your bathroom stories are better than mine. Stay safe. I love you.
22nd July 2006

hugs from boston
I've been told that Bucharest is beautiful... this seems to be a mixed review. THe bathroom described sounds a lot like the one in my apartment. lol I'm more and more jealous of your trip with every post! And thanks for the lovely post-card... I miss you!!

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