Portugal El Camino - 2016

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Day 11 – September 3, 2016 - Ansiao, Portugal to Condeixa a Nova, Portugal - 21.72 Miles



As this is again going to be another long hot day we are up early and out on the trail before the sun has risen. While we are leaving town walking uphill on an asphalt road, I was able to snap a good picture of the sun coming up.



The road takes us past a new sports ground. As we approached Bate Aqua/Alem da Ponte we are greeted by a little white dog who we name the “Town Crier” as he leads us around the town barking all the way to be sure we do not take the wrong turn.



The path now proceeds steeply through a forest of pine and eucalyptus trees before coming to an asphalt road leading us into Netos. After making a right hand turn at the end of the village, we find ourselves back on a forest track that undulates sharply through the forest where we were hoping to see the funnel shaped receptors that collect sap which we did not see. As we walk through the forest we see areas where new eucalyptus trees have been planted along with existing olive groves. Before leaving the forest we are blessed with a very steep hill to walk up and then walk down – how lucky can we be???



Upon reaching Freixo Cruse we stop at this very clean little petrol station and enjoy our morning cup of coffee since we did not have any before we left this morning. Continuing on the trail it again alternates between asphalt and narrow lanes with dry stone walls and paths.



Prior to entering the small hamlet of Junqueira, we leave the asphalt road and take a track up through scrub and woodland to Alvorge. As we are leaving Alvorge we pass by a very lovely chapel.



The route now continues steeply downhill on an asphalt road before we take a left turn onto a rough path through scrubland down to the valley floor passing by rather new park. After passing the park the path becomes a lovely path and then turns into a small path taking us through scrubland again.



Prior to reaching the small hamlet of Ribeira de Alcalamouque we find some very tasty grapes, blackberries and figs to munch on. As we continue walking through the small hamlet we are stopped by two ladies who insist we take some figs and peaches. After thanking them we continued on the trail that alternates between track, path and asphalt road.



Continuing on, we pass by a meal sitting on the dirt road that consisted of a three sandwiches, 2 glasses of wine, cigarettes, matches and a rose that from my prior Camino understanding is done in memory of someone who died on the trail.



Upon reaching the edge of Rabacal we stop at Café Bonito for a cold drink and to eat our sack breakfast. With our bellies full we put our backpacks back on and continue down the road. It’s not long before we pass a couple of pilgrims who are headed to Fatima.



After leaving the town of Rabacal we cross over a stream and find an asphalt path that takes us into Zambujal. Continuing through the village we cross over the river and road and head into the historic pilgrim hamlet of Fonte Coberta. As we leave Fonte Coberta we find ourselves on a path that runs parallel to the rio dos Mouros which was dry. We now enter a very remote area that I personally felt was very boring. Harlan and I both agreed we should name this area the “Portugal desert”.



We finally reach the tiny hamlet of Poco where we encounter a steep uphill climb with a steep downhill walk and then another steep uphill climb up to the top where we find historic Roman ruins. After reaching the top we decide it times for a cold beer. After having our beer, we head out to complete the last 2 km’s to our hotel for the night. Sure glad when we finally arrive at our hotel after a long and hot day!!!!

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