WINTER ESCAPE TO PORTUGAL Azores, Algarve and Alentejo

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Relax and say AAAh. The Azores, Algarve and Alentejo coast of Portugal are the perfect trio for a blast of good weather, culture and plenty of jaw dropping seascapes. This trip is perfectly suited to the traveler who wants an authentic experience and simple luxuries all within a reasonable budget. We managed to stay within our $30/day per person budget during our recent 6 week exploration of the area, and you can do it too! In this post you'll find my favorite places and all the juicy details that can make traveling to new destinations a breeze. This trip can be done in other seasons, but Winter is best as you will miss most of the tourists as you climb moorish castles, hike along deserted beaches, get lost, happily among the intricately tiled streets of the old towns, and just kick back in a country that is known for it's tranquil atmosphere and easy going people.



AZORES

As I've raved in an earlier post, Searching For Pao Man, it's easy to fall in love with these islands. The temperate air and easy pace of life is a welcome change, and you can feel it the moment you step off the plane. With grassy cliffs and mountains as high as 7,700 ft. plunging down to hidden beaches, the Azores are stunning. The easiest and cheapest way to visit is to find accommodation on the island of Sao Miguel since that is where international flights land first. If you have more time and money to explore other islands, Santa Maria is heavenly. Rent a car and spend a week lazily touring this tranquil island. It's hard to go wrong here, as every corner, pull off and vista has a flower garden, picnic area, or both! But do make sure you go to the town of Furnas it's literally bubbling over with hot and cold springs alike. Walk along the trails of Sete Cidades, an old caldera on the west end of the island. Near there you'll find Ferraria where there are hot springs bubbling up into semi enclosed basalt pools on the ocean. Gorreana, the only tea estate in Europe is worth a visit, you can tour the facility and enjoy a delicious tasting all for free, be sure to stock up here if you're a tea drinker. A trip to Sao Miguel wouldn't be complete without a drive up to the lake, Lagoa de Fogo where you can enjoy a panoramic view of both the north and south coast at the same time.



ALGARVE

Visit the southern coast of Portugal in early February when the almond trees are in full bloomand the citrus is ripe. Not only will you avoid most of the crowds that descend onto the expansive beaches in the summer, you're also likely to enjoy some of the mildest winter weather in Europe. The city of Lagos sits at the western end of the Algarve where the Bensafrim river meets the sea. You can gaze out at the natural rock formations from the coastal path that sprawls west from the city, or rent a kayak and get a closer look. This is a great place to spend a few days enjoying the old town and great restaurants. On the far Western edge of Europe is the town of Sagres and Cabo Sao Vicente. This windswept corner of Europe was thought to be the edge of the world (back when the world was flat, that is) and is a must see. From Lagos you can train to my favorite city in the Algarve, Olhao. The tiny pedestrianized streets of the old town lead down to the waterfront garden and walkway that span the length of the town. Olhao is alive with locals chatting at corner cafes and there is a remarkably colorful fresh market that spills out along the waterfront every Saturday. This is a great base to visit the island ports of Culatra and Farol and nearby towns like Tavira, Fuseta and Santa Luzia. These towns are very close to each other and can easily be reached by train, or better yet rent a bike!



ALENTEJO & LISBON AREA

Along the west coast of Portugal from the Algarve in the South up to Lisbon lies the Alentejo region. Full of vineyards, surfing beaches and tiny towns, it's much quieter than the Algarve, even in the high season. The stunning village of Vila Nova de Milfontes is situated on the bluffs where the river Mira meets the sea and is quite sleepy in the off season. From here you can hike south along the coastal trail 'fisherman's walk' and follow it as far as Cabo Sao Vicente. Or just relax and enjoy the beaches and local trails around the dunes.We were lucky enough to spend some time at the permaculture farm A Quinta just inland near Odemira. We spent time wandering through citrus groves, watching the sunset over rolling hills and climbing 200 year old cork trees. If you get a chance to wander off the beaten path I highly recommend it, Helpx is one way you can have an authentic experience and save a little cash. North of here, Lisbon's old town is easy to explore by foot or tram and before flying home make sure to take side trips to Evora and Sintra, both UNESCO world heritage sites just a short train ride away.



EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY

If you don't like fish, you will after visiting Portugal. Portuguese are experts at catching, filleting, and cooking perfect fish and seafood...and it can be very inexpensive. I always look for the the prato do dia, plate of the day often €6-€10. The menu do dia is even better because the price usually includes olives, bread, dessert and a beverage of some kind. Whatever you decide to order it's sure to come with huge portions of either potatoes or rice (or both!) and a salad. Often the waiter will bring unordered starters like olives, cheese or bread, they are rarely free, if you don't want them return them right away or you will be charged. For a decent glass of house wine try ordering a copo do vinho (for as little as €.90/glass). Meals are usually topped with a cafe or a selection of sweet liqeuers, or both! Like in most European countries the check is not brought to you unless you specifically ask for it and a 10% tip is expected.



For a swinging deal in Fuseta walk west away from the river along Rua General Humberto Delgado for a block or two until you see a square open up on your right. Here you'll find several restaurants lined up and chefs grilling up fish right outside. There are also tons of good dining options in Lagos, including my favorite Casinha do Petisco where the chef serves up huge portions and checks in with each diner to make sure they enjoyed their meal (see picture below). Cafe O Camilo is also worth a stop, situated on the bluffs it's a perfect place to enjoy the views with a snack or cafe. More information on these restaurants and more in Lagos here. If baked goods are what you're after don't miss Queijada Da Sapa, the old cheesecake factory in Sintra. Not only are they expertly serving up the cheesecake Sintra is known for, I also found the best croissants in Portugal there. There are a couple of beachside restaurants open in Milfontes during the off season including the stylish hotel HS Milfontes offering up sit down dining as well as a cozy lounge with a fireplace where you can order pizza and snacks, and Quebra Mar is a beach bar with a great view.



You will find the best, cheapest and widest variety of wonderful food at Portugal's outdoor markets called mercados. In some cities such as Ponta Delgada the market is open everyday until around 2pm, while you're there be sure to pick up a pineapple (ananas) and some cheese from Sao Jorge. Other towns like Olhao and Lagos are only open on Saturday. The Olhao market is a must see for it's wide variety of super fresh fish, produce, olives, etc plus the gypsy market where you can find clothes, shoes and other functional objects. It is easy to spend hours here, eating churros by the sea.



In addition to well known Portuguese wines like Port and Vinho Verde, there is an abundance of great wine to choose from. Try Vinho de Cheiro in the Azores, a refreshing young wine. Other wine regions include Dao, Alentejo and Algarve, each with it's own unique characteristics. What a joy it is trying local varieties, drinking them in is just one more way to experience the place you are! At grocery stores you can find bottles of delightful table wine for €1 or so, and while dining out .

In Portugal it seems like every family has their own homemade liqueur. At a few places we stayed we were welcomed with a bottle of their personal blend. They tend to be sweeter than I'de like, but the flavors are wonderful, including carob, tangerine and pineapple. We also had a chance to taste nearly pure alcohol made from figs that was very reminiscent of a strong vodka...smooth!



LANGUAGE

Understanding Portuguese takes practice, but getting some simple ideas across is easier and I've found people to be very patient and helpful when I at least try to communicate in Portuguese. If you go looking for a phrasebook, make sure to get continental Portuguese, not Brazilian. The language has been described as sounding like a drunken frenchmen due to all the sh's. I find it soft and very pleasant to listen to. O at the end of words is pronounced like oo. H is pronounced like y, and s, z, x and sometimes c are pronounced like sh unless they are at the beginning of the word. So tres (three) is pronounced treysh. And thank you is different depending on who is saying it, if you are female say obrigada, if you are male, obrigado. Hello is Olá but people more often greet each other with good day (bom dia), good afternoon (boa tarde), or good night (boa noite). Unlike mainland Portugal, Azoreans often drop the ends of the words or parts of phrases altogether, for example boa tarde sounds like just plain tarde to my ears, and the feminine form of two duas sounds like du. You can find english spoken in some larger cities and in some of the more touristy places in the Algarve, but it is worth giving Portuguese a try, especially if you like getting off the beaten path. Here are a few more useful words:

One Um/Uma

Two Dois/Duas

Please Por favor

Excuse me/sorry Desculpe

Where? Onde?

How much? Quanto?

I would like Queria





TRAVEL DETAILS



Flights on Sata Airlines are relatively cheap and stress free, especially from Boston where they fly direct to the Azores. A perfect itinerary would be to fly Sata to Faro, Portugal with a stopover in Ponta Delgada, Azores with a return flight from Lisbon instead of Faro. To see the most in a small amount of time rent a car in the Azores. You can use the bus system which runs often and can get you most places though it can be a slow ride as it makes local stops. Once you get to mainland Portugal you can take advantage of the numerous buses and trains and skip renting a car altogether. In the Algarve between Lagos and Sagres there is no train line, but EVA bus line will get you there. North of the Algarve Rede Expressos are a bit nicer and busses are equipped with free wifi.



In Portugal airbnb is a great accommodation option. Not only is it the best value, hosts go out of their way to pick you up and often welcome you with a platter of snacks and drinks. Some even offer a driving tour of the town and great advice on where to go and what to see.



On a final note I just have to recommend the app maps.me, maps of the world you can download by country and use offline. It shows you where you are without a connection and includes true locations of bus stops, grocery stores, etc. I've tested this app exhaustively in Portugal and it really works, indispensable!



Boas Viagens!

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Photos

WINTER ESCAPE TO PORTUGAL
Lagos, Portugal

WINTER ESCAPE TO PORTUGAL
Cabo Sao Vicente, Portugal

WINTER ESCAPE TO PORTUGAL
Fishing spot near Sagres, Portugal

WINTER ESCAPE TO PORTUGAL
Mackerel at O Camilo, Lagos, Portugal

WINTER ESCAPE TO PORTUGAL
Fuzeta, Portugal

WINTER ESCAPE TO PORTUGAL
Cosstline at Vila Nova Milfontes