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Published: November 10th 2017
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University of Coimbra Saturday, November 4, 2017, to Mealhada (Sernadelo), Hilário Residence, 24.5 km.We had a long walk today -more than we usually do and so we left Coimbra before 7. It was a lovely walk out of Coimbra along the river, past a park and onto gravel paths that were created just for the Camino. We passed through many small towns and by many cafes (yay!). The Portuguese dog communication network seemed to monitor our every move as we moved from village to village, passing the word along that dangerous pilgrims were passing through their territory. Thankfully it was cool all day with some drizzle at times and downright chilly by late afternoon. I think the weather is finally starting to change. Mealhada is famous for its roasted sucking pig, and there were many ads with pictures of the skewered baby pigs being put into the oven. Yikes! Nonetheless, it was offered as a pilgrim's meal, and we had to try it. Thank goodness it was just pieces of pork and not a baby pig staring at me from the plate. We weren't impressed with the taste. We got in late - 5:00 and needed our clothes washed. The owner does them and
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Walking out of Coimbra then hangs them up to dry. I sure hope they're dry by the morning. It was a long day and another one tomorrow. We met 7 pilgrims today - a record, one going the opposite direction to Fatima. Once again we couldn't find a church for Mass tonight or tomorrow.
Sunday, November 5, 2017, to Agueda, XPT Agueda - Alojamento Local, 25 km. Well, our clothes were still wet this morning, and with another long day we didn't have time to wait for them to dry and packed them up wet. Today we walked through more or less continuous villages with very large recently built houses. They were mostly shut up - summer homes? Lots of businesses close in Portugal on Sunday, and it was 10 o'clock before we found an open cafe and got some coffee and breakfast (ham and cheese sandwiches). At the cafe we saw 2 young girls we had met yesterday - Hyna from South Africa and Jessica from Sweden. Hyna is going to New Zealand next and says she will travel until her money runs out. Oh, to be young again! We didn't find anything open for lunch and only ham and cheese sandwiches
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Part of the dog network from a snack bar for dinner. I'm getting really tired of ham and cheese sandwiches. We're staying in a really nice place, modern and a comfy bed. Finally - a place that looks as good as its online pictures, and Tiago, who works there was very helpful and made a call to find us a place for tomorrow. Feeling lousy tonight - I think from not getting enough nutrition. And our clothes are still drying.
Monday, November 6, Albergaria-a-Velha, Pensao Casa da Alameda, 18 km. We decided to sleep a little late since we had "only" 17 kms. to walk today. We were able to grab coffee before leaving town so I wasn't caffeine deprived like yesterday. It was mostly road walking today, but again through continuous villages except for a short piece along a super highway and a very long bridge. We met a pilgrim from Luxembourg going the opposite way to Fatima and talked for about 10 minutes while the semis zoomed by. She was pretty shaken by the highway walking. She had walked on the Camino Frances and was continuing on to Fatima. We're in a pretty little town called Albergaria-a-Vehla. We had an enormous delicious
pilgrim meal for just 6 euros each - the most nourishment I've had lately. The owner really likes pilgrims and has walked to Fatima. As I write this I'm freezing. We're in an old pension, and they haven't turned the heat on yet for the season, 39 degrees F outside, but in these old stone buildings it seems colder. We have 3 blankets and a bedspread on, leggings, and I'm thinking of sleeping in my fleece. I hope the overpriced hotel we've booked for tomorrow has heat.
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Raul A Gonzalez
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Feel your pain
Thanks for sharing your experiences and pics with us. Feel your pain. So happy I am home!