16 September 2016, Friday, day 18, Esposende to Viana do Castelo

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16 September 2016, day 18, Friday. Esposende to Viana do Castelo. 16.79 miles.

This will be another day trying to follow the arrows as we have no detailed notes or Brierley guide. Fortunately, Moira has a more current edition with some coastal route maps.

We pass a cafe with a cat enjoying the sun. Then a black lab dog walking a 2 inch wide wall with its owner watching closely from the porch. We see the kiwi that grow in northern Portugal like grapes from trellises. And the taxi post man poses by his motorcycle as he makes his rounds delivering the mail. We pass along a forest path where we find a monument from the region of Esposende to the Coastal Portuguese Camino. It has a shape like the country of Portugal with Lisbon and Porto very prominent.

After walking up the hill to the Church of St. Tiago de Castelo de Neiva, we made our way through the forest back down to the monastery just outside the town of Chafe where we sought a cafe for lunch. This would be the end of Moira's walk. In the cafe we learned the waitress spoke perfect English. She had grown up in Toronto as her parents had immigrated there. But now they have returned and they run this cafe. We asked for a taxi for Moira and she insisted she would drive her, herself. Moira got the grand tour of the beaches, resorts and town while the four of us trudged on to town.

Jo and Julian pressed on ahead. Karen and I found our way down yet another hill to the Lima river bridge. We were actually gaining on Julian and Jo as Karen was walking at a pace of a kilometer every 11 minutes. You should try it if you do not think that is not fast!

We crossed the Eiffel bridge and made our way down and under it to our hotel. Hotel do Parque ranked as the worst breakfast and one of the best views.

And here are Karens notes for the day

September 16. Friday. Esposende to Viana do Castelo Hotel do Parque, 11 minute kilometers over the bridgeToday we do not have the ocean to keep us company. It will be a day of climbs and stone-paved road.We reach the banks of the River Neiva along a forest trail and find a stone monument to the Coast Way. We follow a winding, narrow, rough path down to the Sebastiao Bridge. The bridge is made of massive horizontal stone slabs dropped upon vertical massive slabs in the water. Climbing up the steep incline on the other side of the stream, I look across to the most idyllic picture. A cottage, in the woods, by the river, is highlighted by bright rays of sun. A lady is out watering a multitude of flowers and greets me across the stream.In Castelo do Neiva we visit the oldest church outside Spain dedicated to Saint James. It had been dedicated to S. Tiago the Greater in the year 862. It is an indication that devotion to the Saint had already spread south past the Minho River into Portugal. This little church was situated on the Way of the Coast (Coastal Route) used by pilgrims going to Spain.Leaving the little church it is another 'tromp' through the woods, up stone paved paths that lead you to a most beautiful monastery near Chafe. Across the street is the stations of the cross ascending the hill. We wearily glance upward and decide 'another day.' From here it is possible to catch sight of Viana do Castelo and the lofty monastery on the hill that overlooks that lovely town, But---- we still have 10 more kilometers to go before we rest!

We stop for a coffee in Chafe and the daughter of the owners insist on driving Moira into Viana as her foot problems have not ceased. What a pilgrim angel. The daughter has been raised in Canada but she has returned to run this restaurant with her parents. She gives Moira a tour of the city and takes her out to the beach.

Meanwhile we are plodding along trying to get those final kilometers done into Viana. Jo and Julien are quite far ahead. Harlan is the sweep. I finally get to the bridge after an inordinately long approach. I look at that long, 561 meter, green metal bridge built by Gustav Eiffel and my shoes took flight! I wanted to end that day!!! I remember my toe caps flashing right and left as I caught up with Jo and Julian. Harlan timed me and said I was 'fast walking' eleven minute kilometers. Not often does that happen as my usual gait is pretty slow. I am kidded that my Magnum (ice cream) Moment kicked in; later in the trip, if I am sluggish, everyone will be looking around for a shop to buy some ice cream for me---but it has to be Magnum, no other will do!At dinner we run into the couple from Kansas that I met days ago in Sao Joao de Madeira, Portugal. That is one of the blessings of the Camino - running into, again, pilgrims that you have shared times with.

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Photos

Beautiful azulejo at Suave Mar Hotel
This hotel was a treasure chest of beautiful heart

Old Fort and lighthouse at the Harbor
Moira had told us about this on her tour with the 'pilgrim Angel' who drove her along the beach and to the hotel.

Another wayside cross in the early morning light
Small chapel in the distance beyond. The wayside crosses marked the continuing pilgrimage for those who followed the Camino

The tight-rope wall waking dog
The owner watches from the porch as the dog walks the wall

This is Esposendes monument marker to the Coastal Camino
You can see the left side is like the border of Portugal with the Atlantic. Lisbon at my waist.

The stone pedestrian (Camino) bridge across the river Neiva.
The sound of the rushing water in the woods was very soothing.

More beautiful flowers - Karen remembers the name
Well, the image I am looking at is very small. I believe it is a type of fuschia - only one we saw

The Church of St. Tiago de Castelo de Neiva
The original primitive church here was dedicated to St Tiago (St. James) in 862.