Coimbra to Porto

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Spent the morning seeing the two main sights in Coimbra, the University that towers over town, and the equally impressive Old Cathedral. As with so many towns in Europe, though, the best sights literally sit at the highest point in town, and that usually means basically hiking up really intense looking streets that just go up and up. Not the best way to start the day, but at least you're rewarded with a good view. Coimbra University sits on such a cliff, which makes sense, though, since if was at one point the main castle in town.

This University, I think I've said, is extremely old, dating from 1290. It's a beautiful place, and has one of the best preserved Medieval libraries in Europe. No photos allowed, though, and you're only allowed entry at specified times, to keep down on the moisture in the room. The library houses books from the 1700s or older is a giant 2-floored space covered in wood and gold. What a way to have studied! Especially back in the day when every book is either in Greek, Latin, or Hebrew. Coimbra is also home to a wonderful Romanesque Cathedral, which actually looks more like a fortress than a church. Take a look at the photos if you don't believe me.

Before leaving on the quick hour or so train North to Porto, I couldn't help indulging in a bica and a nata. These are basically a small espresso and a little pastry-pie filled with almond puree and usually powdered sugar. They're famous in Portugal, dirt cheap, and incredibly good. I think I've had 3 or 4 today. Anyway, after leaving Coimbra I arrived at Porto, my last stop in Portugal. I honestly wasn't expecting to like this town, viewing it just as a convenient place to stop before heading into Spain. But I was completely wrong.

Porto is an absolutely awesome place, a sprawling city that runs along the Douro River, and is colorful and vibrant mainly because it's so gritty and unpolished, a lot like Naples actually. The people seem honest and hard-working here... kind of a warts-and-all type of place. Porto is also famous as the town that gave Portugal its name, which actually comes from the old Roman name for this place, Portus Cale, or calm port basically. Porto also contains hundreds of port wine bars stretched out along the Douro River. This is actually the only place in the world where port wine comes from, hence its name. Truly glad I stopped here.

Tomorrow it's a bus into Spain, going first to the great pilgrimage city of Santiago de Compostela.

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Photos

The Iron Gate
The entrance to the oldest part of Coimbra University.

University's Main Courtyard
The Grand Hall is up those stairs, the place where special university events occur.

King John's Library
A wonderful place, filled top to bottom with really old books.

Montego River from University
Always hazy in the mornings.

Coimbra View from University
That's the Santa Clara Bridge, which is built upon Roman foundations. The Montego River is the only river that's completely within Portugal, something the Portuguese are very proud of.

Coimbra Cathedral
This is a fortress of God, literally. Built at a time when the Moors were still around. Look at the crenelations at top, just like a castle. This place is made to defend.

Inside Coimbra Cathedral
Heavy and dark, with tiny windows and round arches. A true Romanesque church, just like in Durham in England.

Renaissance Altar in Coimbra Cathedral
Thought it was interesting because the apostles are actually tilting their heads, as if literally listening to what Christ is saying. Nice touch.

Another Altar in Cathedral
Shows St. Peter being crucified upside down, marking the spot where today's St. Peter's Cathedral sits in Rome. Limestone, though, doesn't hold up well.

Broken Ribs Street
Literally the name of the street, which doesn't make you want to go down it. Back in the day, before the stairs, if you slipped you'd probably break some ribs, if not worse.

Coimbra's Main Street
Other street branches off to the old Jewish ghetto, which no longer exists.

Sleeping King in Coimbra
The second king of Portugal, Sancho. Liked it because it just looks like he's sleeping, not dead. He even has his helmet hung up on the wall next to him, like he's going to need it when he gets up.

Porto's Cathedral
Heavy and solid Romanesque Church, a lot like Coimbra's. A bird pooped on my shirt when I was taking this photo.

Inside Porto Cathedral
Tiny windows. Like being in a tomb of heavy stone.

Douro River
Just upstream are the port fields. Porto also is well known for its bridges. Gustave Eiffel even designed one.

Colorful Waterfront
Houses are taxed by how wide they are, so the creative owners built really thin and high.

Main Square with City Hall
This part of town eerily reminded me of Prague's Wenceslas Square. I could've sworn I was back in Prague.

Tiled Porto Church
I've never seen a tiled church before, at least with tiles on the outside like this.