Too Much Port in Porto (if this is even possible)

---

Bom dia,

Peter was sitting at his office working hard one day, or possibly searching the internet for discounted flights as was most likely the case, and came across an excellent deal to Portugal. Being the last country in Western Europe I had not visited, he bought the ticket and started packing.

As there are not many flights directly to Europe from Vancouver, the flight would involve a transfer in Toronto. I flew standby, and was actually able to get an emergency exit row with more than enough leg room! The connecting flight in Toronto, was not as smooth. Firstly, there was a security breach because, apparently "someone managed to wander into an area they should not have been. Don't worry, it's all fine now." However, this meant security doors had been shut in the terminal so people were not able to get to the gate for the flight, delaying its departure. It was delayed for a further hour despite the fact that the Air Canada Rouge (just like a typical Air Canada flight but on an old plane, with no legroom, terrible food, and ruder staff) flight crew were already through the security doors and instead of prepping the plane during the security breach, they just sat around chatting. Finally, the plane took off, but at 1am, the staff decided to serve dinner. At a point when half the plane would be asleep, meaning half the plane would not eat and the airline would waste money. Would it not have made more sense to serve people breakfast, considering the plane is scheduled to land at 11am? (I'm sorry about the rant. It will be my last rant of this trip. Probably.)

Anyways, the plane landed late in Lisbon and Peter missed the first train he could have caught to Porto. However, it was very easy to get from the airport to Gare do Oriente (one of the many train stations in Lisbon) because it is connected to the metro line. The station itself is incredible It was designed by Santiago Calatrava, my favourite architect, for the World Expo Lisbon hosted in 1998. The train arrived on time, because it's Europe and that's what trains do, and then I was off to the north of Portugal. En route, the countryside was very green and hilly with some beautiful villages visible from the train.

Arrival in Porto was very simple because the train station is connected to the tram system. So far, I was really liking the transportation infrastructure in Portugal. It was a short walk into the Art District where I was staying at Gallery Hostel. The check-in was very relaxed, and the two of the staff (Frederica and Theresa) gave him a tour of the hostel and its facilities, as well as answered his questions about sites in Porto. The hostel is one of the few where I have stayed where dinner could be purchased for €10. It seemed kind of pricey, but I was lazy and didn't want to go looking for food. Well, it was incredible value! For €10, they served little fried fish bites, Iberian ham, two types of cheese, tuna fish, baked goat's cheese in pastry, soup, salad, a main course, desert, and wine. It was so good I ate there every night for the rest of my stay in Porto!

The next morning Adil, a fellow Canadian who was in the same room as I, joined me for a walk through the Ribeira District, the UNESCO World Heritage recognized old town of Porto. It was overcast, a bit foreboding, and very atmospheric. We crossed over the Dom Luis I Bridge, built by a disciple of Gustave Eiffel, and wandered through Vila Nova de Gaia, past the myriad port lodges to Taylor's. Even though the grapes for port wine, one of the main exports from the region, are grown up the Douro River, they are aged in buildings in Vila Nova de Gaia, as they have been for the better part of the last 400 years! We went to Taylor's because a friend of mine had provided me with a VIP tour and tasting. The tour itself was an audioguide and very informative, if not a little self-serving. One of the more interesting parts of it was a basket of stones that were samples of the limestone schist that grapes from one of the best Quintas (estate) Taylor's owns, grow in. After the walking tour, there is a standard two sample pouring of two lesser ports. For us, we had a large table in the corner covered in white lined and five different ports to sample including a 10 year old tawny, a 20 year old tawny, and a vintage port from 2009. It was delicious! After the tour, we wandered through the beautiful English-style gardens and headed down the steep and winding streets to the banks of the Douro for some beautiful views back to Porto. We walked back over the bridge and then wandered through the Ribeira and over to a bar for a drink that provided gorgeous views of the sun setting over the mouth of the Douro.

The next day turned into a walking day. Uphill. More uphill. Even more uphill. Downhill, just kidding, it was more uphill. I first went to the São Bento Train Station which is covered in gorgeous azulejos (painted, blue tiles). These tiles can be found adorning buildings throughout the country and are absolutely stunning! From there, I enjoyed the view from the Torre de Clerigos which, despite the fog, was still incredible. Afterwards, I joined the throngs of people lining up for something. What was that something you ask? Well, it was a bookstore. J.K. Rowling previously lived in Portugal, and some of the sites in the country, provided inspiration for aspects of the Harry Potter series. This bookstore was one of the inspirations for the shops in Diagon Alley, and it was obvious to see the comparison. The bookstore has a stained glass skylight and an ornate ceiling, but the focal point is the carved and swooping staircase with intricate details carved into it. I would have stayed in the shop for longer, but the hordes of tourists were making it unbearable so I escaped to Cafe Santiago for Francesinha. Francesinha is a traditional Porto dish (read hangover cure) composed of bread, steak, and sausage, covered with cheese and then drowned in sauce. It was delicious!!! The best way to burn off the sandwich was to walk it off so I headed to the Boavista neighbourhood in western Porto to visit the Casa de Musica. The building was designed by Rem Koolhaus a few years ago and it is a modern concert hall that does not have 90 degree lines in its exterior. It was one of the more interesting buildings I had seen in a while! I then met up with the Sandro, Daniella, and Kirsten (apparently I collect Swiss and German friends) and we headed out to one of the most interesting bars I've ever been to. Near the top of a hill, an area had been excavated and covered in grass. Underneath the grass was a collection of restaurants and shops, and on top of the grass was an outdoor bar area with benches, stumps, and even a bathtub one could sit it. It was really atmospheric and I wish there was an establishment like that in Vancouver!



Things I learned in Porto:

- There is no flat. Only uphill.

- Porto is an amazing city with incredible sites at every turn.

- Gallery Hostel is far and away the best hostel I have stayed at (out of 62 different hostels). The staff are amazing, the bar is great. the outdoor terrace is relaxing, the food is delicious, the location is excellent, the beer is cold, the building is atmospheric, the rooms are massive, and they are all ensuite!

---