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Published: September 2nd 2016
25 August, Thursday. About 16 miles.
We leave our nice hotel after discussing options for travel that day. It is decided that I will take the train to the area nearest our next lodging. My wheeze and cough are still my constant companions and I want to be fit by the time we reach Oporto. Jo and Harlan will flit along the Camino. No one is attending train station in Santa Iria de Azoia. So we walk the road N-10 to the station at Povoa.
We find the nearby train station, Povoa Santa Iria. It is very confusing and the hotel desk clerk has warned me there are suburban trains, regional trains and local. Not all stop at a station. A station attendant tells me I have just missed one and then just disappears. Since I am feeling pretty good and don't cough as much as usual I decide to follow the trail and then when I am weary I will try and catch a train.
For a while it is the usual trucks and cars but then we hit a most lovely national estuary area.
We walk for a long time on a boardwalk with the River
Tejo and its waters to our right and the 'shoreline' to our left. In some areas of the estuary hay has been harvested. There are many channels that cut through the land. It is a subdued scene enjoyed by walkers, cyclists and skateboarders.
We near the end of this river estuary park area and two kinder age groups are with their teachers, walking the path. They are well behaved and so cute with little binoculars around each neck! Would love to hear what they relay to their parents around their dining table tonight!
My footwear is beginning to hurt my feet. Since I have thought I was taking the train today, I am wearing Ecco sandals that, although comfortable, are not meant for dealing with these trails.
We are passing another train station, Alverca do Ribatejo. We rise, with the assistance of an elevator; so many of the train stations appear to be relatively new. We enlist the aid of a charming young girl in the little cafe. She proceeds to leave her business, take Harlan outside, point to departure board with correct line. I will need to get off the first station--bypassing one on
the way. Even though you might see the train has the final destination you want, different lines will make different stops along the way! Bless her heart---we are already collecting pilgrim angels along the way 😊. Harlan puts 6 euros on my local Lisbon train card and he and Jo leave me to get on the train.
I hop on, an elderly couple most pleasantly offer for me to sit down. It is very kind but I want to make a flying leap out the door. We have already experienced the train doors are omnipotent in this country and they wait for no man, woman or child.
I am deposited in Avila de Xira station and what a lovely sight it is. It is all freshly painted in white with 'almost' Dutch gables and red tiled roof. The highlight(s) are outside walls with beautiful blue and white tile azulejos with scenes of the area. I am close to one and snap a photo of peasants. bringing in a crop. The detail is delightful. After climbing up and over the tracks one looks up at the front of the station and there are many azulejo scenes, so beautifully done.
This town should be extremely proud of their restoration. The Camino passes through a park next to the station and little ones are playing on bright child size equipment.
I will have to say the next part of the day's trip is not pleasant. It has been decided that I will either wait for them at this spot or go on ahead to our hotel, that is just further down a little on the path. Well. One of the well-known rules among walkers/hikers is that "you should not split up nor ever hike/walk alone." I sit on my bench, admiring the beautiful azulejo scenes thinking, "I wonder if they have a cool pool?" "Boy, would it be great to get these sandals off and flip-flops on!" After 45 minutes of admiring azulejos I decide to throw the pack on and walk what, we have estimated, is approximately 6.5 kilometers. Only, in our heat addled minds we have thought it will be around 2 miles instead of four.
There has been general criticism on John Brierley's "Camino Portuguese," A Practical & Mystical Manual for the Modern Day Pilgrim. Some of the more detailed faults have been poor directions, mileage
notes and inaccurate maps. I was the unhappy witness of all problems this afternoon, I was a most unhappy pilgrim. If you know that this little book is the sole source of walking notes that your hapless tour company gives you then you know you are going to be open to adventure! To shorten a tortuous tale I march along 3.9 miles more in sandals on my rest day. Harlan and a poor cab driver search for me at the wrong train station and I impose a five minute "no-speak" period by the time they find me on the road. Our lodging is nowhere to be found on the Camino, as stated. In fact there are no facilities, including water along my route. Ah, preparation for greater things!
Harlan, here with our (Jo and my) day on the Camino Portugal. Our goal is the Leziera Parque Hotel. From where we left Karen, we continue along the busy N-10 highway into Alhambra. This town has a bull fighting arena. We take several photos of statues around.
I get a note from Karen that she is at the station in Carregado, about 6 Kilometers passed our hotel. As soon as we
enter Vila Franca de Xira I start the GPS on my phone for walking directions to the hotel. It takes us the up the hill down the hill route.
At the hotel Jo and I check in and I ask for a cab to find Karen. The hotel desk clerk explains what I need to do to the driver. He takes me to Carregado station and NO Karen. Now the text messages are flying and she is on the Verizon $10 a day plus plan. After 10 minutes I ask the driver to go back to prior station, Castanheira estacao. There she is on the street. With my head in phone saying we were coming I did not look up and see her as we drove past earlier. Found-we return to hotel.
Jo and Karen are feeling quite adventuresome this evening an we have a most gracious and efficient server. He suggests we have cuttlefish, a Portugeuse delicacy. Well, it is not to their liking and he is distressed. He wants to have the kitchen fix another fish dish but they have filled up with good bread and salad. Drinks are usually extra with a pilgrim meal, depending
on the region. The server has taken the bill off for the jug of sangria that we all have enjoyed. We do try and assure him it is our taste buds that need further development in the appreciation of cuttlefish. Cuttlefish belong to the same family as squid and octopus.
We have had some of the most delightful octopus in the Galicia region of Spain but the cuttlefish was tough as so much of our calamari is when it arrives at the table. Harlan's dorado fish was good.
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Norma Wiebe
non-member comment
Nightmare
Ouch what a bad experience on the trail for you all. Then to have bad fish!!!! Labor Day Weekend lots of pool and fun family time. Just back from Fenway Park this week and Fargo for football next week Thinking of you all