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Published: September 4th 2019
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We woke up to the sound of the neighbors playing with their children, laughing, and enjoying life. Their apartment is just offset from ours, but a little lower, so you can experience their life, whether you choose to or not.
Without much of a plan, I looked up a tourist information place, or so I thought, and we started climbing west. As we turned the first corner, the tiniest cafe, on a corner at the foot of some steps, was the obvious breakfast stop. An almond cream tart and a cappuccino gave Sue the energy to continue, and we were soon following the tram line to the top of this hill called Alfama.
The vivid colourful ceramic tiled shops, and the working artists inside, drained the purse a bit, and as we stood discussing life and the cricket with the jewellery seller from Bangladesh - another 40€ gone - , Mr Tuk Tuk approached us. He was a young charismatic good looking local, so I did Sue a favour and he was ours for the next hour and a half. His knowledge and passion for Portugal, combined with his skill at driving for long periods of time while turned
around talking to us, made this a valuable experience from a time saving point of view, and the extra tips he gave regarding getting around and how to orientate yourself when the river is in view but you’re lost.
I won’t go into all he showed us, but much of Lisbon has been reconstructed since the earthquake in 1755. It’s all still old, but nothing like the 12th century Cathedral that we visited earlier.
Alfama, the district we are staying in, was the only part of Lisbon still intact, an it’s clear the most battle scarred, worn out part of Lisbon. That’s why the tourists, many who stay elsewhere, flock to this place, day and night.
When we head down our 58 stairs - that’s eight flights of stairs turning left and right - the tempting smells of grill fish and barbecued meat fill the stairwell and threaten to blow the roof off. It’s strong but homely, most of the day. At the moment I’m hearing a child out our side balcony who is making it perfectly clear that they don’t want to go to bed, no matter how tired they sound, and a woman out the
Mini trams.
I think we’ll be on them tomorrow other window who would benefit from a throat lozenge of the clear up the throat kind. We’re in the ’hood, but it’s perfectly safe. We went for a walk before and wandered up a side street with clothes out every window, and a couple of neighbours gathered in the hot streets, while a man above sits shirtless on the window sill enjoying a cigarette. He’s straight out of West Side Story.
Tomorrow night is fado night. I’ve booked a table up the road at a restaurant that features fado singers; traditional soul wrenching crooners who sing of lost love, death in wars, and other doomsday themes. Our Tuk Tuk driver told us it’s sometimes also funny. Probably not if your foreign to the language.
Belém Tower, Lisbon Market, and a few other things in the Belém area will be covered as well, so it’s a full day.
Starting the day with no clues except a few broad ideas, we are now full speed ahead. The Belém district is also home to the Portuguese Tarts, so they will be tested. Tuk Tuk Man said he can tell the difference between those and the tarts cooked elsewhere. I have
Tiled Building
This is common and was done to brighten up the look of the Old Town no reason to doubt him. His long commentary was sometimes interrupted with, And that’s the truth, a fact, I’m not making that one up, it’s not just a theory. So what, the theories were great.
The day is over, I even sorted out a small train problem we had, at no extra expense, so I’m off to bed.
The child has surrendered to sleep, the woman over the way must have had a fishermans friend, so I’m good to sleep. Sue has had a big day and I think the Camino Vitamin I will come out tomorrow; ibuprofen.
I’ll check in tomorrow before the fado show.
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Marcelle
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Bookshop
Hi Steve Love Lisbon, you must visit the Lello bookshop, Run das Carmelita’s, 144 Porto if you get the chance beautiful wooden staircase, many references to JK Rowling in Lisbon Enjoying your blogs. Safe travels Marcelle