Portugal 9 Cabo de Vicente - to Lands End and America

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The sun came up early and we left the Orbitur camp early making our way to the Algarve. Our overnight stop would be Lagos but we planned to stop first at the Portuguese version of our own Lands End .

This was going to be another opportunity to try out the Via Verde box and probably get another fine. The roads were relatively empty despite it being the weekend but this was something that would lure us into a false sense of security. The soils put on a show. The mustard replaced by pinks, mauves , crimsons, nut brown, lemons and a whole artists pallet of colour. It all looked incredibly lovely and made prettier by the eucalyptus bushes that replaced the scrubby bushes at the side of the road. We entered the motorway without a whimper from the box and exited the same way. The only time it sprung into life was when we passed under the overhead boxes which charge small amounts to travel the motorway. At least we thought the box was doing something and we could prove that if we had to. It registered the first toll 2 euros 20 and then the next 2 euros 10 and so it continued until we reached an unmanned booth and it ignored us again. .

Eventually we arrived at Cabo Sao Vicente with its rocky cliffs and azure blue sea. Nothing between here and the United States of America. It is not strictly the most westerly point. It does stick out into the sea but Cascais further up the coast near to Lisbon and Sintra actually is the real Lands End.

It is a place where motorhomers recommend you leave your visit until the day trippers have gone home, park up , watch the sunset over the sea and hope you get a wind free night. On the way we saw many cars parked up. The owners had gone for a walk along the headland or to one of the nearby forts. Runners pounded the road and cyclists rode to the edge of the land before turning round and returning to Sagres.

I had visited our own Lands End in the 1970’ s when it was just a rocky headland free to enter with a small café at the end. Nothing but the sound of the sea lapping on the rocks and the gulls calling. By the 1980’s it had changed character and turned into a theme park with cinema showing tales of smugglers and wreckers. Galleons for the children to play on. Its character had changed totally out of all recognition and all for the worse with more tourist tat shops than any self respecting Cornishman needed. I wondered what this Lands End would be like. 1970’s style or 1980’s.

Our destination was the car park next to the lighthouse. We could see it in the distance striped red and white just like a barbers pole. It did not have the height nor the presence of Cornish lighthouses. It was stubby and dumpy. Cars were parked everywhere at the end and we just about managed to squeeze Suzy in to a little space. It was Saturday after all and on such a sunny day all of Portugal must have wanted a slice of Lands End. The sky was blue, the sea even bluer and the breakers white way below us. Along the approach were stall after stall of tat. Ponchos handknitted in Portugal or probably the Far East. Hot Dog stalls and magnets. Yes we got one to show we had been. We were served by a lady with a very British accent. At the very end was the fort with a small museum and a café, gardens full of succulent plants which must have looked lovely at the height of summer. Rather liked the place as it did still have a raw beauty about . If you wanted you could get away from the hoardes of day trippers.



On our way back we caught a glimpse of Sagres fort. Another Vauban style fort and an Intermarche on the doorstep. What excitement but soon shortlived. Fresh milk so at last a decent cup of tea and coffee. I did stock up but the selection was poor with few cakes and nothing that really made me feel that it was a worthwhile trip.

Our overnight stop was a Yelloo camping village site . Touriscampo boasted being open all year round. Ideal for snowbirds to overwinter. We should have guessed what it would be like reading the blurb. Big with bungalows and space for the population of a small town. A minimarket on site, games for the children, a swimming pool and Jacuzzi; water exercises 10.30 every morning , yoga one morning and pilates the next. We should have run a mile. Instead we booked in. We had intended stopping for two nights and taking in Lagos on the Sunday but with a few misgivings we just booked in for one. 16 euros ACSI site it was good value for what you got. Our parking spot was tiny. We felt had we paid the full price of 25 euros we might have got a bigger pitch. We had to wait for the maintenance guys to turn up to connect us to the electricity. So much for a quick escape as you need them to disconnect you . I went to the swimming pool which was fantastic . I admit though smiling to myself when Mr Brit turned up, big, fat and covered in tattoos and a terrible haircut with his son who looked like he was part of a gang culture . He was joined by bronzed daughter and wife who took over the Jacuzzi. You could not have got in if you tried. I felt sad to be British when I saw them and watched their behaviour in the pool. At night we were entertained from 9.30 to 11.30 by the band who sang their hearts out. We spent the night playing a sort of I will name that tune game We identified most which ranged from Achy Breaky Heart to Walk of Life and everything in between. We also met a couple from Sheffield who had bought a motorhome like ours and we shared our experiences. Not all of them good ones when it came to the same dealer who supplied theirs as did ours. A baby cried for hours. Noise carries a long way on a campsite. In the end I guess we fell asleep and in the morning decided to head off for Camping Lisboa - now this is a big campsite. Not one we have tried before and it holds 1800 souls when full. What on earth are we doing? We hate big campsites.

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