Polish Mountaineering

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Geo: 49.2991, 19.949

Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains; A hidden little gem in the most southern part of Poland. A name most people might not have known or heard of. I didn't think that there were mountains in Poland until I saw some photos of a friends trip there and was immediately captivated and drawn to it. Upon planning my trip, this was a priority and it was a good thing that it was close to the beautiful city of Krakow and a $7 bus fare.
I went on the Wednesday as I wanted to avoid the weekend rush. Although in the low season it probably didn't make too much of a difference. Well except that I had a whole hostel to myself for two days and nights.
I stayed at the Stara Polana hostel. Close to the bus station but a 10-15 min walk in to the center of town. I arrived during the afternoon and walked in to town in search of a tourist information center to get a detailed map of the hiking trails in the mountains. I walked down Zakopanes main street, which is a mix of restaurants and shops. I didn't find it that exciting so I made my way to the cable car up the small hill behind Zakopane called Mt Gubalowka via the path leading under the main road. On the other side of the bridge is a market area selling all kinds of little snack foods including some popular cheeses to the region. I bought one a few days later but in the end it wasn't that great; an acquired taste I guess.
Up the top is a stunning view of the Tatra mountains. You can catch the cable car up or walk; so I decided to walk. Unfortunately the top is littered with tacky tourist stuff such as kids rides and expensive food stalls, but if you look beyond the commercialisation you will see beautiful scenery on both sides of the hill. I soon headed back to my empty hostel to watch some Tv but mostly dubbed in Polish.

Morskie Oko is a popular walk to some beautiful lakes up in the mountains. A walk I was recommended to do. With a detailed map of all of the trails, a packed lunch and sturdy boots, I headed off early in the morning to beat the rush. I caught a mini bus from outside to main bus station to the start of the walk.
There is the option available to take a horse and cart for 2/3rds of the way, but of course I wasn't going to do that. The walk itself is quite nice; it takes about 2.5hrs to get to Lake Morskie Oko.
A few things that annoyed me along the walk was when it was silent and you are enjoying the walk you are interrupted by the horse and carts and even cars, flinging up dust in to your direction. I was quite surprised that the whole walk is along a road with a very small section of actual path only to cut through the middle of a windy section of bitumen. Not the exciting trail path through the forest floor that I was expecting.

At the lake is a restaurant for refreshments. You also have the option of walking around the lake. On this occasion the lake was still frozen, people were walking across it, not around it.
My urge to find higher ground led me up to the icy path to the second lake at a higher altitude. The problem was it was very icy, and pretty hard climbing.
No signs had been posted about not going there and the possible danger of attempting to climb. So I figured why not. Two others also tried. It was hard work, using tree branches to pull me up and walking up the side of the main trail where there was fresh snow to get a foot hold as the main trail was pretty much iced over.

I almost got to a point where I turned back when I saw one of the older guys still coming up, so that inspired me to keep going to the top. There were some fabulous views from the top in all directions. I saw that the other guy was still coming so I waited for him. His name was Peter, originally German but lives in the United States. We had a great chat and a photo shoot before slowly and carefully making our way back down to the lakes edge to Peters friend Michael. We also felt inspired to walk across the frozen lake to the restaurant for a well earned Polish brew.
We walked back down to the parking lot where I was able to catch a lift in Peter and Michaels car back to Zakopane. We arranged to meet the following day at the cable car to Kasprowy Wierch.

The weather was rainy and cloudy but was due to clear. Unfortunately after waiting for an hour, Peter an Michael didn't arrive, but later I found that they were a little late because of parking and bus issues. I pressed on after a while and decided to walk to trail to the top and catch the cable car down. It took me 2.5 hours to get to the top and it was just as risky as the previous day.
Most of the track was frozen, making for slow progress. I was completely on my own until the top. Closer to the top the trail was sometimes covered in snow and hard to recognise, and parts were pretty icy and slippery along a steep incline. I eventually arrived to the top where it was clouded over, no picturesque photos unfortunately.
Up the top you are able to walk other trails, but being covered in snow it is too dangerous. Also on the top is a Ski field and a restaurant. I had a much earned warm Pizza and headed down via the cable car.

I got to the hostel in a sore and exhausted state and fell asleep for two hours. Needless to say nothing much happened that night. The following day I took it easy, going back up Mt Gubalowka for one last view and reflection and the great walks I did and people I met. I took to bus back to Krakow around midday.
I really enjoyed the Tatra mountains and it was the exact break I needed from the cities. I am sure in summer it is better to walk the trails so who knows, I might be back.

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