Warsaw - Day 3


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Europe » Poland » Masovia » Warsaw
September 15th 2018
Published: May 4th 2022
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Palace of Culture and SciencePalace of Culture and SciencePalace of Culture and Science

Palace of Culture and Science - Pałac Kultury i Nauki or PKIN. Designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnev. Built in 1952-1955 in a mix of Art Deco and Socialist Realism styles. Plac Defilad 1. DSC_0256p1
Today we had our formal Collette coach tour of Warsaw. We started at Łazienki Park. It was originally a royal preserve laid out with palaces and monuments. It became a public park for Warsaw in 1918. Many interesting items were to be found here. At the entrance, a monument honors Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935), a leader in the Polish independence movement and twice head of state. (His Cadillac is displayed, too.) Overlooking a pond is the Chopin Monument commemorating the composer. Designed in 1926, it depicts him under a willow tree. Nearby in this musical corner of the park is a bust of Franz List. From the musicians corner, the group began a walk through the park to the Łazienki Palace, stopping to admire the Old Orangery. The Łazienki Palace, or Palace on the Water (Pałac na Wodzie), was built beginning in 1772 on an island in an artificial lake. It served as the summer residence for Stanisław August Poniatowski, Polan's last king. It is a Neoclassical structure in a picturesque setting. Both the north and south façade face the lake while the sides are each connected to the mainland by a colonnaded bridge. The south façade features a terrace with a
Józef Piłsudski MonumentJózef Piłsudski MonumentJózef Piłsudski Monument

Józef Piłsudski Monument - Pomnik Józefa Piłsudskiego. The monument honors Józef Piłsudski (1867-1935) Following Poland's independence after World War I, he was Chief of State and later Prime Minister of the Second Republic of Poland. DSC_0045
fountain. The park is replete with small buildings, monument and sculptures. Continuing our walk, we came upon the Myślewicki Palace (Pałac Myślewicki). This residence was built for August Poniatowski in 1775-1779. Our way out of the park we passed the Ujazdowski Castle (Zamek Ujazdowski).

Between Łazienki Park and our next stop at POLIN--Museum of the History of Polish Jews, the tour bus passed many reminders of the impact of World War II on Poland and Warsaw: Monument to the Home Army; Monument to the Warsaw Uprising; the Saxon Garden; Monument to the Fallen; Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw, among others. There is a statue of Ronald Reagan to commemorate the fall of Communism. Also along the route were notable cultural institutions: Zachęta, the National Gallery of Art; National Library of Poland; and the Wielki Theatre.

POLIN is located in what was the Warsaw Ghetto, in a plaza now named Placa Bohaterów Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square). A monument installed in 1948 on the fifth anniversary of the 1943 Ghetto Uprising commemorates those who resisted and those who were victims during the uprising. In the same square is POLIN, a museum of the history of the Jewish people in
Chopin MonumentChopin MonumentChopin Monument

Chopin Monument (Pomnik Fryderyka Chopina). Installed in 1926. Recast after World War II and reinstalled in 1958. The Chopin Statue is a large bronze statue of Frédéric Chopin (1810-1849) seated under a willow. Łazienki Park. DSC_0048
Poland. Everything about the design of the museum is symbolic. The entrance portal is fashioned to resemble the Hebrew letter tav (ת), which stands at the beginning of such words as tarbut (culture) and teva (ark). Inside, curved walls symbolize disruption in the 1,000 year history of Polish Jews, while a large window to the outside symbolizes that their story is not yet over.

The tour bus now took us to Castle Square, where Susan and I had been the day before. We all made our way to the adjoining Market Square (Rynek Starego) of Old Town. The group was given free time here for lunch and exploration of Stare Miasto. And so we had an opportunity to see more nearby historical items. The Palace Under the Tin Roof (Pałac Pod Blachą) was one. This building began as a residence and then grew in a series of reconstructions, each more elaborate, until it became a part of the Royal Castle complex. A view of the backstreets revealed houses with sgraffito work and decorated guild halls such as the House of the Shoemakers. It is difficult to keep in mind that all of these Old Town buildings are postwar reconstructions.
Franz LisztFranz LisztFranz Liszt

Bust of composer Franz Liszt (1811-1886). Popiersie Franciszka Liszta. Given to Warsaw by Budapest and sculpted in 2011 to mark the 200th anniversary of the composer’s birth. Łazienki Park. DSC_0047
Nevertheless, they are part of the Historic Centre of Warsaw UNESCO World Heritage site.

Lunch was at Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie in Old Town. We enjoyed some interesting Polish dishes here, including Barszcz czerwony z uszkami mięsnymi (Beet Soup with Beef Ravioli) and Gołąbki nafaszerowane mięsiwem z ryżem pod gęstym sosem pomidorowym (Stuffed Cabbage Rolls in Tomato Sauce). The beet soup was similar to Borscht. Returning to catch the tour bus, we saw a unique sight. A wedding processing escorted by a mortorcycle club! I think the bride and groom had just been married. They arrived at Castle Square by car, with a squadron of bikers following them. The couple got out and made their way amid an admiring crowd for some speechmaking.

Returning to our hotel or the afternoon, I was still ready for exploration. I decided to walk the opposite direction for the day before. My goal was to see the Palace of Culture and Science, the Soviet-era skyscraper that dominates the Warsaw skyline. It was not that far away. I walked up Krucza three blocks to Aleje Jerozolimskie and then made a left. There were more interesting things to be seen along here. A Carrefour Express
Old OrangeryOld OrangeryOld Orangery

Old Orangery (Starą Pomarańczarnię) at Łazienki Park. Built in 1786-1788. The Old Orangery was built to store the orange trees that decorated the gardens in summer. DSC_0055p1
market is on the corder. A plaque affixed to the wall of a demolished building is a war memorial. Further along was another traffic circle. This one had an underground passageway to cross the street. The passageway was shopping arcade lines with a variety of stores and services. At the other end was the Warsaw central Metro station. Beyond it was my goal, the Palace of Culture and Science (Pałac Kultury i Nauki) or PKIN. It is exactly what one thinks of as Socialist Realist architecture, an austere mix of Neoclassic and Art Deco styles. It certainly reminds one of the Communist era. So much so that Warsaw is in a quandary about what to do with it. Tear it down or repurpose it in some way?

For dinner, we went a few blocks to Zorza for a taste of a modern Warsaw bistro. I ordered a Beef Burger with fries while Susan ordered a toasted avocado sandwich. American-style hamburgers are amazingly popular in Poland, and made with Polish beef. While we were here an Uber Eats deliverer came in to pick up an order.


Additional photos below
Photos: 56, Displayed: 26


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Old OrangeryOld Orangery
Old Orangery

Old Orangery (Starą Pomarańczarnię) at Łazienki Park. Built in 1786-1788. The Old Orangery was built to store the orange trees that decorated the gardens in summer. DSC_0069p1
Royal PromenadeRoyal Promenade
Royal Promenade

Łazienki Park. Royal Promenade.between the Old Orangery and the Palace on the Water. DSC_0070p1
Łazienki PalaceŁazienki Palace
Łazienki Palace

Palace on the Water = Pałac na Wodzie or Łazienki Palace = Pałac Łazienkowski at Łazienki Park. Built in 1772-1792 for Poland’s last monarch, Stanisław August Poniatowski and served as his summer residence. Rebuilt in 1960. North façade. "The small imperial château of Łazienki (i.e. 'Baths'; Łazienki Królewskie) makes a most attractive impression, especially when viewed from the artificial water, and its light colouring contrasts very effectively with the verdure of the park. It was built in the Italian style for King Stanislaus Poniatowski in 1767-88 and was acquired by Emp. Alexander I in 1817".--Baedeker 1914. DSC_0077p1
Łazienki PalaceŁazienki Palace
Łazienki Palace

Palace on the Water = Pałac na Wodzie or Łazienki Palace = Pałac Łazienkowski at Łazienki Park. South façade. "The small imperial château of Łazienki (i.e. 'Baths'; Łazienki Królewskie) makes a most attractive impression, especially when viewed from the artificial water, and its light colouring contrasts very effectively with the verdure of the park. It was built in the Italian style for King Stanislaus Poniatowski in 1767-88 and was acquired by Emp. Alexander I in 1817".--Baedeker 1914. DSC_0080
Łazienki Palace SculptureŁazienki Palace Sculpture
Łazienki Palace Sculpture

Classical sculpture at the Palace on the Water, or Łazienki Palace. DSC_0085p1
Łazienki Palace BridgeŁazienki Palace Bridge
Łazienki Palace Bridge

Colonnaded bridge connecting the Palace on the Water to the park. The Łazienki Palace is on an artificial island. DSC_0088
Lower Połudnowy PondLower Połudnowy Pond
Lower Połudnowy Pond

Lower Połudnowy Pond from the Palace on the Water (Łazienki Palace). Łazienki Park. DSC_0081p1
Piotr WysockiPiotr Wysocki
Piotr Wysocki

Popiersie Piotra Jacka Wysockiego. Piotr Wysocki (1797-1875) led the 1830 November uprising against Russian rule of Poland. DSC_0089
Myślewicki PalaceMyślewicki Palace
Myślewicki Palace

Myślewicki Palace = Pałac Myślewicki. Built for August Poniatowski in 1775-1779 in the early classical style. The three-story center section has an entrance niche running along its entire height in the center and is enclosed in quarter-circular wings. DSC_0093p1
Ujazdowski CastleUjazdowski Castle
Ujazdowski Castle

Ujazdowski Castle = Zamek Ujazdowski. Rebuilt by King Stanisław Poniatowski in 1766 and again in 1784. From 1809 to World War II it was used as a military hospital. Restored in 1977. Adaptive reuse in 1985 as the Center for Contemporary Art. "... the Military Hospital (Szpital Ujazdowski); formerly a royal summer-palace".--Baedeker 1914. DSC_0094p1
Ronald Reagan MonumentRonald Reagan Monument
Ronald Reagan Monument

Ronald Reagan Monument - Pomnik Ronalda Reagana. The monument commemorates Regan's support for the Polish labor union Solidarity and its movement. Installed in 2011. DSC_0106p1
Evangelical ChurchEvangelical Church
Evangelical Church

Evangelical Church of the Augsburg Confession - Augsburski Świętej Trójcy. Plac Stanisława Małachowskiego 1. "To the S. of the Saxon Garden is the Lutheran Church (Kościół Ewangielicki), a large and conspicuous rotunda begun in the time of King John Sobieski and completed in 1799. The lofty dome is surmounted by a lantern of considerable architectonic interest, which affords, perhaps, the best view of Warsaw and its environs (185 steps)".--Baedeker 1914. DSC_0108p1
National Gallery of ArtNational Gallery of Art
National Gallery of Art

Zachęta, National Gallery of Art. Plac Stanisława Małachowskiego 3. "... to the N. of the Lutheran Church is the building of the Art Union (Dom Towarzystwa Sztuk Pięknych) , erected in 1898-1900 from plans of St. Szyller".--Baedekr 1914. DSC_0109
Saxon GardenSaxon Garden
Saxon Garden

Saxon Garden = Ogród Saski. A public park established in 1727. The remaining triple arch of the pre-World War II Colonnades is now the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The fountain was added in 1855. "Behind the Saxon Palace and reached by the Colonnades, lies the Saxon Garden (Ogród Saski), a public park of 17 acres in extent, ;laid out buy Augustus the Strong and containing find old trees".--Baedeker 1914. DSC_0113p1
Jabłonowski PalaceJabłonowski Palace
Jabłonowski Palace

Jabłonowski Palace = Pałac Jabłonowskich. Built in 1773-1785. The clock tower was added in 1869. The building served as the Warsaw city hall from 1819 to 1939. Rebuilt in the 1990s. It is now Bank Handlowy. "On the N. side stands the City Hall (Ratusz), originally built in 1725, destroyed by fire in 1863, and rebuilt in 1870. ... The tower is 190 ft. high".--Baedeker 1914. DSC_0117
Teatr WielkiTeatr Wielki
Teatr Wielki

Teatr Wielki - Opera Narodowa. Built in 1825-1833. Rebuilt and enlarged after World War II and reopened in 1965. Plac Teatralny. "On the S. side of the square is the Grand Theatre (Teatr Wielki), dating from 1833, with colonnades on the ground floor. The ballet is at its best in such national dances as the mazurka and the crcovienne".--Baedeker 1914. DSC_0119p1


4th May 2022
Łazienki Palace

Warsaw
This looks like a lovely city and we hope to visit soon. We'd better go before something happens ....
4th May 2022
Łazienki Palace

Warsaw
What was particularly impressive about Warsaw is that Poland worked so hard to rebuilt it after World War II. Nearly 90 per cent of the city was destroyed. It took them decades, but they put it all back together. That took determination.

Tot: 0.063s; Tpl: 0.021s; cc: 11; qc: 28; dbt: 0.0078s; 1; m:saturn w:www (104.131.125.221); sld: 1; ; mem: 1.3mb