Beware the vampire snowman in Åndalsnes!!!


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Europe » Norway » Western Norway
February 28th 2018
Published: March 7th 2018
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Andalsnes - our first stop to aclimatise!!


We arrived in Åndalsnes at 8:00am to clear skies and stunning scenery. This is just another of your typical fjord like communities. The snow-covered mountains swept down to the shore of the Romsdalsfjord. There were peaks in every direction giving the illusion of a town that is cut off from the rest of civilisation, yet with a population of approximately 2,500 life just goes on as normal. The temperature today is a chilly -11°C. A purpose-built quay has been constructed for cruise ships and the loch is deep enough for the modest sized ships to come along side. There is no need for a tender today!!

We came ashore at 10:30, well wrapped up. The first thing noticeable was the wind. Whilst it wasn’t exactly gale force, the chill factor made the air temperature plummet which had a numbing effect on our faces. The newly fallen snow was being whipped up and danced across the street which was already starting to cause mini snow drifts against buildings or any wall that happened to get in the way, as well as unsuspecting parked cars and the vulnerable such as the elderly and infirm who couldn’t move as fast as the rest of us!!

To get out of the biting wind we sheltered for about ½ hour in the Tindesenter. This is a relatively new building only metres from where the ship docks, so many peoples first point of refuge!! It is an adventure centre that documents the history of climbing and parachuting from mountains, through an interactive experience combining film with pictures. The centre also houses Norway’s largest climbing wall. From the church-like shape of the building, it wasn’t difficult to guess where the wall was situated within the structure.

Research on Åndalsnes prior to this trip didn’t bring up too many ‘hits’ on Google. However, there was one point of interest known as ‘Nebba’. This is a vantage point where spectacular views over the town, the fjord and beyond can be seen. ‘A spectacular view’ to me usually means strenuous climbing. However, I was assured that this was a ‘beautiful and easy’ walk. I secured directions from the very helpful Information desk inside the Tindersenter. On venturing back outside, it was a relief to know that the wind had now subsided leaving a pleasant, if tingling sensation, in the sub-zero temperature. The sky was now virtually cloudless leaving a bright but low sun shining down, reflecting off the surrounding snowy peaks. ‘This is the best weather’, I said to Roisin as we started to cross over the rail tracks as instructed. I then added those six little words that usually means the kiss of death: ‘Let’s hope it stays this way!!’

We passed the petrol station that is in the process of being demolished. We were on the right track. Veering around a curve in the road, we saw the wooden sign for Nabba. Our gaze followed the direction of the arrow as it pointed towards a steel walkway, twenty metres along a path covered in nine inches or so of freshly fallen snow. The walkway hugged the side of a sheer hill at about a thirty-degree angle and rose about fifty feet before disappearing beyond a tree line. Although there was a steel handrail along the walkway, this also was covered in ‘virgin’ snow. For the next few minutes, both Roisin and I stood in silence as we contemplated our next move. Was the walkway going to prove too slippy? If we venture up will we be able to venture back down? The guide advised Nabba was only 90masl (metres above sea level) I’ve no idea where the sea was so couldn’t judge if this was good or bad. Just when I was musing over the last point, two people made an appearance at the top of the walk way, holding tight on to the railing as they slowly descended. Managing to accost them before they dashed off, I got from them, intermittently between gasps of breaths, the logistics of tackling this ‘obstacle’. (And I’d only walked to the bottom of the steel ramp!!) In the current conditions it was taking between 15-20 minutes to completely ascend to Nabba. I did learn that the first stage is only a few minutes walk and from there, an opening looking out over the Romsdalfjord. I beckoned to Roisin, waiting patiently at the roadside. She returned my gesture with one of her own by pointing up with her middle finger. She obviously was telling me to start my climb up to Nabba!! It was harder than I thought. Whilst the sloped walkway was not slippy, it was steeper than it looked. I had to use the hand rail as a support to pull my body up so it was level with my feet after I had moved them forward, step by careful step. After five excruciating minutes, I made it to the first stage. The walkway stopped at a narrow plateau before continuing up and around the hill out of slight. Another visitor to the Nabba lookout appeared on the second part of the walk way, half sliding, half running. My mind was made up. This is far enough for me. The view was worth it, looking down on the Oriana through a break in the trees. I could see the entirety of this branch of the fjord. It seemed massive yet I knew this is only a small arm of the thousands of miles of fjords that weave from the North Sea to the very heart of this country. On the way back down, it was indeed more difficult to control your pace as gravity just wants to take over. With crunching over the packed snow, one has to be careful not to lose one’s footing otherwise one would find oneself sliding down a chute on one’s a**e a la Eddie ‘the Eagle’ Edwards!!

Every day at noon, the officer of the Watch explains our position, weather prospects and depth under the keel. We had another full day at sea before our next port of call Tromsø. On this particular day, the weather prospects seemed fair and the depth under the keel only 250m. However, before finishing his report he advised all passengers to watch out for the vampire snowman adding that he should be OK today as he had a bowl of Kellogg’s Frosties this morning! I thought the passengers were supposed to lose the plot before the crew!! To this day we never had an explanation regarding the ‘vampire’ reference.

There is a promenade deck located on deck 7. This is an outside deck that one can walk around without having to cut through the inside of the ship or climb up and down stairs to another deck in order to complete a circuit. Three and one third laps of the promenade deck is equal to one mile. As I was completing my third lap, I noticed a dozen or so passengers standing, staring out to sea near the aft of the ship. Some had their cameras at the ready, others were already frantically ‘snapping’ at, what looked to me like the open sea. Not very interesting, to say the least. I stood looking for several minutes then became conscious of an even bigger crowd forming. I overhead someone mention the word ‘Whales’ or she may have just been answering the question ‘Where about are you from!!??’ As I pushed my way out of the crowd I was convinced that this was a case of if one person looks up for long enough, s/he will attract a crowd of curious minded people, that man then walks away leaving the rest waiting for nothing to happen! I should know. I have been that man!

Today we crossed the Arctic circle. The temperature didn’t fall below 1°C. The skies were blue and practically cloudless thus bright sunshine. I thought I’d never write this but we had crossed the Arctic circle and in doing so had escaped the atrocious weather back in the UK!!

In preparation for the Aurora Borealis, the photo Department gave a presentation on getting the best out of your camera. This was not just for those with SLR cameras but also Bridge Cameras. The seminar covered using the correct aperture, ISO and shutter speed. The presenter used comparative images to demonstrate results using different settings. There are no ‘wrong’ settings. It is all about experimenting and personal preference. All cameras are slightly different so this advice was purely a guide (Don’t you just love a disclaimer??!) It’s important to use a Tripod (surprise, surprise these can be purchased from the photo shop!!) A remote trigger release is also imperative as pressing the shutter release whilst using a tripod can also cause camera shake. Roisin and I are off riding with Huskies tomorrow, I don’t think a remote shutter release will make much of a difference when I’m trying to balance the tripod on the front of the sledge!! The presenter also provided the audience with some dos and don’ts. The main issue is flash. Switch the damn thing off otherwise someone who has taken time and patience to set up their camera and is in the middle of a fifteen second exposure could have their prize shot ruined by a man with an iPhone!! (and not even one of the good ones either!!)

As darkness fell, the skies remained clear. It was a starry night but, alas, the Northern Lights did not make an appearance.


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8th March 2018
The Oriana - Andalsnes fjord.

Awesome pic
Best ship photo in some time - good job!
11th March 2018
The Oriana - Andalsnes fjord.

Thanks Andr..er I mean Snarko. That's one hell of a tree I had t climb to get the shot!

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