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Published: July 24th 2015
Prikestollen (Pulpit Rock) Southern Norway
Picture tells the story of our trip to Norway. We finally made it to Norway to climb Pulpit Rock and what a fantastic experience it was.Slow start today for our overnight stop in Kristiansund – we had 190kms to cover but now we were used to calculating the correct time for the little windy roads. Heading out of Alesund we encountered lots of roadwork including a very large bridge being built. You have to give it to the Norwegians – they are terrific bridge and road tunnel builders.
Drove in the direction of a town called Molde. The ferry crossing over the fjord was once again another lovely way to pass 40 mins. We were also in the habit of heading straight up the ferry stairs to the café for a yummy hot chocolate.
Arriving in Molde we parked the car and enjoyed a walk around the city centre. Molde is known as the city of roses. Unfortunately the weather had been too cold this spring/summer so instead of blooms there were gardens full of roses all heavily in bud but no blossoms. Not to worry! We climbed the stairs to the roof of the local church because that was the easiest way to get a nice view of the city and the harbour.
Driving further north
City of Molde
View from the Town Hall Rose Garden we encountered a very confusing set of road signs to find the Atlantic Ocean Coast drive so decided to get fuel and check directions with the locals. Diesel for our little Toyota Urban Cruiser cost approx. $2.60 Aus per litre. It did get a little cheaper in the larger towns but we had a rule about keeping the tank half full. Service stations are not always easy to find and the car seems to have a small bottom end to the fuel tank!
Found the road to the old fishing village of Bud. The drive along the coastline was becoming more rocky and less agricultural. The ocean was on our left and the snow-capped mountains on our right. The sea was sprinkled with granite outcrops and little flat islands called skerries. It reminded us so much of driving on the west coast of Ireland around Connemara. The coastal inlets had small fishing sheds with boats and gear piled up everywhere.
Arriving in the tiny village of Bud we were able to see how the larger cod fishing villages were organised. They are amazing places because the wooden pylons and dock buildings seem to defy
Fishing village of Bud
There are so many little fishing villages in Norway that look just like this. Cod fishing was a big industry here many years ago the elements and last for a very long time. Of course they cut down good oak trees for the foundations. Then there were the big timber frames where they hung thousands of tons of salted, cod fish to dry before being exported all over Europe. It was a terrific food for the times when there was no refrigeration and Norwegians still enjoy it today. Unfortunately they almost fished the cod out in the 1960’s and that was when many of the fishing villages died out. Now it is much better managed.
Bud also surprised us with its fortification museum at the top of the hill close to the village. It turned out that in WW2 the Germans made good use of the fort dating back to 1100. They set up a radar system there, had a prison where they kept about 180 prisoners who were forced to dig tunnels for the Germans to keep a good lookout across the Atlantic Ocean for English submarines and naval ships. The view was good and it was easy to see why it was a strategic spot in the war.
Leaving Bud we were now seriously on the
Bud Fishing Village - cod drying frames
Saw quite a few of these structures - they are used to dry the codfish for export. Nowadays there are not so many as they almost fished the cod to extinction - too much of good thing!! Atlantic Ocean Drive regarded as one of the top 10 drives in the world. It was really something but apparently serious drivers wait until Autumn/Winter when the ocean pounds the road and creates havoc. Apparently they have had 10 tornadoes hit the road in the last few years so it would have been quite spectacular.
The road is an engineering feat as it crosses many tiny islands as sea level to link the main west coast cities. There are a lot of bridges but one in particular is long and very high making it appear to rise up out of the ocean. Just after the bridge is the visitor centre with its 3km walk around the island. It was a lovely way to stretch the legs, get a bit of sun and enjoy the coastal views.
Checked into our hotel in Kristiansund. Dinner that night was yet another learning experience. The Norwegians don’t do Thai food very well. The staff appeared to be from Thailand but the menu was adapted for Norwegians who struggle with herbs and spices etc. The locals kept the staff busy with lots of orders but when we tried our
food it was very sad – nothing like real Thai at all.
Next morning we walked around the streets by the hotel which was located in the old city centre. The historical society have done an excellent job of numbering each of the important remaining buildings in this area and we had no trouble locating them.
Kristiansund to Trondheim Oh how time flies when on holidays – today is our last day in our little car so just another 200kms to go. The rocky coastal and mountain views continue all the way to Trondheim.
Trondheim is quite large with about 24,000 people living in the city. Like all the places we have been to the city centre has a very large port full of ferries, fishing vessels, ice breakers, support ships for the oil and gas platforms and of course cruise ships.
It was raining as we arrived and our little map of the city didn’t help us find the car rental drop off or the hotel. Graham also had to drive up the tram tracks etc as Leanne navigated us accurately ((probably by accident)
WW2 German Atlantic Coast Defence System
GG checking to see if the equipment still worked! directly to the hotel. Here GG abandoned the car at the front door and we unloaded the suitcases. The Hotel Scandic in Trondheim is a beautiful hotel with huge foyer areas decorated with many pieces of art by a local artist. Whilst it was modern and impressive artwork, we found the paintings to be quite depressing.
Even after receiving what seemed like ‘clear instructions’ from the receptionist as to the location of the Avis Car Rental we had a few issues because the office was in a pub and the car needing to be parked down at the dock level at a service station. All these things required a little patience especially in the rain! Walked back towards our hotel and over the most amazing walking bridge to a popular dockside area filled with bars and outdoor restaurants. It is so nice the way all the chairs have gas heaters, blankets or sheepskin rugs to keep the outdoor eaters warm. We ended up in a quaint little restaurant that had a big pizza oven.
The best thing about the meal was the awesome gluten free beer – best we have ever tasted but sadly
it cost $17 for one stubby – no wonder the locals drink Carlsberg which is heaps cheaper.
Breakfast: Normally wouldn’t comment on this but unbeknown to us this hotel is famous for its breakfast – so much so that you have to book a reservation in either the first or second sitting on weekends. Lucky for us it was Friday.
There was food galore with a fresh smoothy juice station, pancakes where gluten free pancakes were yum, fresh gf chocolate muffins, a charceuterie where they sliced local salamis, hams, French cheeses etc, and invited guests to try the Gold Medal cheeses from France and the list just goes on – as does the cholesterol and calories around the tummy.
GG was in heaven because they insisted on serving the hotel’s chocolate brownie bites as they walked around serving coffee. Needless to say we spent quite a long time at breakfast that day and didn’t need to eat all day.
Touring that day started with a walk from our hotel to the Hurtigruten Ferry Terminal. We needed to make sure we knew where to walk the next day with
Atlantic Coast Road
12 Hurricanes hit this road during the building of thi 8.3kms of road. The first sighting of the bridge was really amazing because the 20 degree curve from the south end makes it look really stunning suitcases in tow.
We then found a tourist cruise of the canals and river as well as Munk Island. On the river cruise we saw where the Germans had built a huge submarine dock at one end of the port in WW2. At one stage they had more than 50 submarines stationed here. When it was clear that they had lost the war they tried to blow up their own dockyards but the walls were so thick they could not do it and some of the walls remain today. Apparently most of the damage was caused by the British bombers at the end of the war.
By now the weather was very cold and it was freezing on the boat heading across to Monk Island. Arriving there we quickly realised there was nothing much to see. The Monks settle there about 1000 years ago and of course the Germans used it as a prison where they executed many people. Nothing nice there! The nicest thing we saw was a group of local families trying to enjoy a day at the seaside. Given that is was freezing with misty rain and the beach had no
Storseisundet Bridge
The bridge is part of a road is built through thousands of little islands called the skerries. The bridge and the islands are part of terrific scenery sand, we thought they were a great example of families making the most of what was available.
After disembarking the boat we walked up the Monks Walk passing the royal residences to the Cathedral and Bishops Palace which is now a Museum. The Cathedral is described as similar to the Notre Dame in Paris – yes it was nice but not quite in that league.
Leaving the Cathedral we walked down to the old City Bridge which in a bygone era marked the entrance to the city for visitors on the river or by foot. It is a cute little bridge with its red timber frame. Walking over the bridge we arrived at a very steep little street that climbed up to the city’s fortress. In true Norwegian style, the city wanted to make it easier for cyclists to go up this street so they put in a bicycle lift. It helps cyclists up the steep Brubakken hill near Gamle Bybro, almost all the way up to Kristiansten Fort. We watched cyclists of all abilities having a go at the lift and some of course didn’t bother with the lift, they just road flat
Atlantic Coast Road
Getting closer to the top of the Storseisundet Bridge and the curve seems to get bigger and more dramatic. It is a cantilever bridge 260 metres long and it clears 23 metres above water level out up the hill. Cyclists come from everywhere to try it – one for the Thursday morning cycling group back home to check out!! To use the lift you pay by using your key card, put your right foot on the foot rest and sit back on your bicycle seat while you glide up the 130 metre hill at a comfortable speed of 2 metres a second.
So after climbing up the steep little cyclist’s street we walked up to the Kristiansen Fort. It has an amazing history and was actually used in battles when the city was under siege back a few hundred years ago. I cannot imagine the noise when they fired the cannons from this fort – they must have all been deaf. Of course the Germans yet again made good use of it in WW2 both as a lookout and for prisoners/executions. It is hard for Australians to have any idea of the impact that this war had on the Norwegian people. Walked back towards our hotel had a meal and crashed – wrecked from a huge walking day.
Friday – Trondheim to Bergen Ah we just
Atlantic Ocean Road
we drove up the bridge and then we came down the other side love dragging suitcases to the dock in the rain! With our big rain jackets on we walked down to the terminal to board the ferry. There is such a difference between getting on a ferry and a cruiseship! Basically there is nothing at the port for the ferry except a dockside. The ferry pulls in, drops a walk on gangplank with a big set of STAIRS and you somehow get your heavy suitcase up the stairs and you are on board.
After a while they ask you for your ticket and a passport and that was it. You can sleep on the chairs and couches or stay in a cabin – your choice just pay the money. The locals are very familiar with this and happily sleep anywhere – sometimes for a few days before getting off. You can either bring your own food, eat in the café or go to a very nice a la carte restaurant. It is very simple. Of course we had a cabin which was small but extremely comfortable – a bed is a better option than a couch!
We spent the afternoon looking at Norway from the ocean.
Atlantic Ocean Road
and they also built a 2km walkway through the islands - spotted a Canberra tourist in the area At about 3pm the ferry docked in Kristiansud harbour to pick up passengers and freight. It was nice cruising in to a harbour that we had walked around only 2 days earlier. Had 15 mins if we wanted to get off. Ran up to the dock café and bought two enormous ice-creams – just had time to buy them and get back on – when this captain says 15 mins he means it.
Norway is a truly spectacular country both from land and the sea. We saw the bridges of the Atlantic Ocean Road, the villages we had driven thru etc all from our ferry lounge chairs.
Even when you are doing very little the restaurant seems to call. After checking out the a la carte menu we decided to have a little splurge and try the local fish and the Reindeer steak. GG loved the Reindeer steak but struggled with the chef’s interpretation of a fancy jus – it was just very salty gravy. The cod fish was also terrific. That is one thing they do really well.
Spent the late evening on deck waiting for the sun to go
Atlantic Ocean Road
After leaving the walking trail we noticed the road began to wind through huge granite rock areas which reminded us of the drive through Connemarra on the west coast of Ireland down at 11.34pm – the sunset on the skerries (rocky low lying islands) was lovely but just as the sun was setting we sailed by a huge island blocking the sunset. GRHHH. When we finally had a clear view the sun was shimmering through the clouds and it was quite spectacular. So another late night in the land of the midnight sun.
Saturday Awoke to another lovely sea day. Enjoyed chatting with a bunch of Australians who had been on the ferry for 5 days having been to the Arctic Circle and the Lofoten Islands. Continued cruising down the coast, stopping briefly at two small villages. It was quite amazing how close we were to the mainland at times – the sea channels are very deep.
About an hour before arriving in Bergen the rain started – this was to be expected as Bergen is one of the wettest places with about 250 days of rain per year. Docked at 3pm and walked back to our favourite hotel, The Grand Terminus. Called into the Visitor’s Centre to organise our Bergen Day Pass for the next day.
Sunday started out on the
The seaport of Trondheim
cruising along the river and canals tram today heading to a Stave Church that was relocated from the countryside into Bergen. Sadly it caught fire a few years ago and they have spent a great deal of money rebuilding it. Finding people with skills to do this was no mean feat! From a distance it looks good but up close and inside it is just too new – nothing like the beautiful Stave Church in Urnes.
So back on the tram we returned to the city and onto the Bryggen Archaeoliogical Museum. They have done an amazing job of excavating the old city area and explaining how life was 1000 years ago in Bergen. Back then Bergen was a fish trading centre. The Norwegians traded stockfish (dried cod) with the Germans in return for grain food. It was interesting to learn that the German traders always seemed to have the upper hand in the negotiations because they set a price for their grain that was much higher than what they paid the fisherman. This meant the Norwegians were always in debt to the Hanseatic Germans. But the fish must have been really good because this arrangement lasted for 400 years.
Trondheim
walking bridge connecting the dockside areas with the central city Next stop was the city tower (home of the Royals) and walls facing the sea and the port. The tower is quite impressive and strangely the Norwegian King engaged a Scottish architect to build the place back in the 1500’s. It is really very steep climbing up the many floors of spiral staircases. The dungeons were horrible but the Royal rooms where they lived were spacious and airy. Yet again it was another place that the Germans made good use of in WW2.
Finished the day by walking to the station to catch the furnicular railway up Mt Floyen, 320 metres above Bergen. This is an amazing little railway – so very steep 20 – 22% gradient and just 2 specially designed carriages. The driver was so helpful to passengers who lived on the mountain – particularly mothers with prams. They stopped the train, opened the door and helped the mums out – imagine that happening in Aus! Loved the views from the mountain top but the misty rain was a little annoying. Before heading back to the hotel we had a great meal again down on the docks. Decided to try the fresh, Giant Alaskan Crab.
Trondheim
The Cycle Lift - novel way to encourage those who live on the steeper hillsides to keep riding their bikes - maybe Canberra needs one of the these - it is a great tourist attraction They chopped up the claws and gently bbq’d them. They were so good but oh so rich!
Monday - Bergen to Stavanger Well we are getting closer to the end of our Norway Adventure and today is a long travel day by bus and two ferries to the south western city of Stavanger. Our trip followed the Kongelia shipping route along the coastline all the way south and yes those clever little Norwegians have created a road through thousands of islands on the edge of the sea using bridges, tunnels, ferry services and freeways on the mainland. It was a wonderful day of scenic driving. Arrived in Stavanger and learnt that it is a very hilly place. We had to drag the suitcases up a serious hill to the hotel. Only good thing is that it will be much easier heading back down the road to the bus station.
Had a real treat today – wait for it - found out that Macdonalds in Norway do gluten free burgers and yes the buns are better than normal buns according to GG. I really enjoyed it and at only $A20 for a
Kristiansten Fortress towers over the city centre
Completed in 1684 the walled fortress has seen sieges, WW1 and WW2 where the Germans used it extensively as a lookout, a prison and a place of execution. big Mac Meal Deal that turned out to be the bargain of the week in Norway.
Tuesday – hiking to Prikestollen (Pulpit Rock) Climbing the Prikestollen was on our bucket list for Norway and today we finally achieved it. This morning we left the hotel at 8am to catch the 30min ferry up the Lysefjord Fjord to Tau, then caught the bus to Prikestollen Camp Ground to walk/climb to the famous Prikestollen (Pulpit Rock).
OMG what a walk was in front of us. All I can say is thank goodness I had no idea how tough it was going to be. So it was 5 miles (8kms) all round. It took us 2 hours to walk up and 1.5 hrs to come back. The path was repaired about 18 months ago and they got the Nepalese in as experts to help rebuild the steep rock path. Not sure that I am a fan of their rock-building skills!! The path was just massive piles of rocks and you had to pick your way over them and they were going straight up. Also the size of each rock
Trondheim
Trondheim is a strategically placed seaport - the old dock buildings along the water ways are hundreds of years old (that is the ones that haven't been burnt down!) was quite large creating a tread that was really very high. The path was very steep as it rose 850 metres.
So about 1500 metres from the top the path got really steep and it was extra hard work. At this point the path was only wide enough for 2 people and in some places it was totally open with a massive 800 metre+ drop over the side. When I first saw the drop I nearly died. But then I thought stuff this we have worked so hard to climb this far, I am going to finish the climb and get onto that big rock. So, making sure I just kept looking up and not OVER the side, I climbed up the rocks and finally made it. Graham was a bit ahead - he is a bit of a mountain goat and not bothered with heights.
There were heaps of people up there all enjoying the brilliant sunshine and having picnic lunches as well as taking crazy photos that made you feel sick looking at them. After we had our picnic lunch sitting on the rock
Trondheim
Views across the city taken from the Fortress I started to feel much more comfortable with the height and looking over the drop. Met a few other young Australians up there and they took some cool photos for us.
The walk back down was easier but scary because the rocks were so slippery and we didn't want any disasters at this late stage. It was an awesome way to finish our holiday in Norway.
Currently we are on the train to Oslo and it has been another terrific experience of public transport in Norway. Before saying farewell from Norway we have to say how wonderful the people are here. They go out of their way to be helpful and they have a great sense of humour. Imagine a country where a blind person is personally helped on and off a train; walked to the carriage, escorted to the seat and made comfortable and their luggage organised - all done by the railway staff!! Also the only reason we can do this blog is the train for our 7 hour trip to Oslo provides free WiFi - five bars all the way even in the
Trondheim
Oldest surviving wharehouse built in 1770 when Cptn Cook landed in Australia tunnels. The internet access everywhere is truly phenomenal and all free. Truly wish the land of Aus would take on this technology properly and be as up to date as the Norwegians.
Tomorrow we fly to Edinburgh and pick up our hire car to head to St Andrews, Scotland.
Sit back and enjoy the blog novel and the many photos – especially the photos from Pulpit Rock. We will be in touch again in a week or two with our golfing update from The British Open.
Cheers and love to all
Leanne and Graham
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