Norway - Day 3, Røldal to Bergen

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Scandinavian breakfast buffets are fantastic. The one at Hordatun was the least impressive of all the ones I had this trip, but still better than just about anywhere else. I started to head north early and immediately ran into a lot more snow. There was a ski center just above the hotel, but I could not tell if it was closed or just early in the morning. Thru another tunnel, back into the snow, then thru another tunnel - I missed the tourist road above, clearly closed this time of year but there was not much to see anyway.

On the other side, there was no snow but was overcast and drizzling. However, I made it to my first point of interest: Latefossen. This is a massive waterfall that falls just near a bridge with the water continuing down a canyon. It was lovely, but the area was closed, there were a few trucks sitting along the side blocking some of the view, the rain, and since it was still a little on the winter side, the falls were probably not at full capacity. Still a good first stop!

It was a pleasant drive along the canyon and rushing river. It was so pretty. There were a lot of other smaller waterfalls along the way, as well as cute little towns and just general beauty. Soon, the sun came out and the skies cleared. At the same time, the deep glacial lakes (starting with Sandvevatnet) were still and reflecting the mountains - the views were just spectacular. I could have really just stayed here all day - I understood why Odda was a main touristy area now. It has one of the best hikes, to Trolltunga (too early in the season to hike), but with the natural beauty, I see it as a full destination. So just before Odda, I stopped a few times to take some amazing, magazine quality photos - it was so easy, but they make me look like a professional. Even the squishmellows, Marta and Marisa, had fun. I drove up the hill above Odda to get a nice view. I had planned to do a hike but I did not find the trailhead. However, I was entranced by the scenery anyway and was having a great time. I even stopped at the coolest rest stop ever: a long metallic open structure with two small bathrooms at one end. I think it was a technically a park, with tables and just amazing views.

Moving further north, I tried to take a couple of the higher local roads, but they were extremely narrow and I hated being a bother to local drivers and farm equipment. It was just such a peaceful drive. The weather was so perfect - I cannot overstate how amazing it was.

Continuing on, I went through the tunnel roundabout intersection I would later take to Bergen, but i had a side trip to do first. On the other side of the tunnel and above Hardangerfjord I had a closer view of the bridge; it connects two very long tunnels, which is unique. It was a short little hike to a viewpoint where there were quite a few people also checking out the bridge. I do think if you can find a better spot on further up or down the fjord, it's better, especially with good weather.

Next plan was to drive to Voringfoss, a popular waterfall that I knew may be inaccessible. It has a narrow metallic bridge over the cascade itself, but the map indicated all local attractions there were closed. Either way it was an incredible drive; you basically drive along a narrow canyon, with some hiking paths to one side, which I will discuss below. As you get higher in elevation, there are a few tunnels, including a really cool one that is circular and then drive above it before exiting into a snow covered landscape. Amazing. The parking lots for the waterfall were closed and barricaded. The only place I was able to find was a "private" (in Norwegian) pull out area. I pulled as far to the side as I could and determined to come back quickly; there was only one other couple there when I was, so it was not like I was blocking anything. I realized why it was closed very quickly. The path to viewpoint above the falls was covered in snow and ice, and since it was mostly metal, I imagine it could be quite dangerous. There were railings, but it was a very steep and high dropoff! I slowly made my way over to the nearest viewpoint, another couple were there, so at least someone would know if I died. It was an amazing view and while the falls were mostly frozen over, you could still hear the rushing water. I could see the narrow bridge crossing the falls in the distance, and yeah, ain't no way anyone should climb that in these conditions. I was satisfied with my view, even though the photos do not do it justice. The ride up made it worth the visit.

Mabodalen Cultural Landscape Museum. Driving down I took my time a bit, first stopping upon exiting the circular tunnel to see the Mabo Bridge - a 100 year old stone bridge over a small waterfall. The walking path I had noted earlier was clear here and I was very tempted to take a short hike, but I did not want to drive into Bergen too late. So, I walked around for a few minutes and enjoyed the view. Then I went further down to the Mabodalen farmstead. I was the only one there and enjoyed visiting this former farm with seven buildings. This is an open air museum and there were a couple boards explaining how the farm came to be, what the buildings were for and a bit about the family who lived there. Additionally, the walking path I saw earlier also ran through here, kind of a 18km through historical locations in a scenic setting.

Norsk Natursenter. The next stop was in Eidfjord at the Natursenter, which is located in a gorgeous building. I saw this online and I was not sure I would go, but figured why not. It starts with a panoramic video of the incredible landscape of this area of Norway. Maybe I should just move here.... Anyway, after the show, you move in the lower level through a lava tube (yay!), then see an exhibit on how Norway and its landscape was formed, including the typical rock types. Moving upstairs, you see the larger fauna and adventures one can have in country, and finally upstairs to see some of the smaller fauna and flora. It was well done and took about 45 minutes to go through the whole place. I went across the street to the associated restaurant and got what I thought would be a vegetable heavy potatoes plate, but came with a meat I was unsure of - I think it was lamb...? Not my favorite, but I was full at least.

Skjervsfossen. I had a 2.5 hour drive to Bergen with one final stop to go. So, I went back through the roundabout tunnel, this time driving over the impressive Hardangerfjord Bridge, and into the next tunnel, with its own roundabout and about another 10km. It really was cool to drive through so many tunnels, especially when you get dumped out into such incredible landscapes. This time, again having to miss the tourist route due to season, I found the road to another waterfall: Skjervsfossen. I saw this on youtube and was mostly intrigued by its impressive rest stop, which sits right on the rapids above the falls. I think there are three bathrooms, and each has a window facing out over the rapids so you can do your business with a private view! There are steep slopes on the opposite side, so no one can see you. There was another older couple there who rode their bikes from somewhere. We were all smiles, and you can even do a quick walk to a look out to see over the valley at the top of the cascade.

I decided to keep driving a bit down the valley because it looked nice and pretty, with switchbacks along the steep wall. I am so glad I did because this was actually the best part. At the bridge over the falls, you can take a short path and get right to the base. There was a gorgeous rainbow at the bridge and I was taking my photos, getting wet from the mist, when a woman who was visiting came up to me as she was leaving to let me know if I take the path, there is actually no mist near the base. I took her advice and it was so amazing! I think this is probably one of my top things I did on the whole trip! I stayed for about 20 minutes, taking photos and just enjoying the spot because I had it mostly to myself. As I was leaving, I gave advice to the next couple who came who were also hesitant to get wet.

Now it was time to make my way to Bergen.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Stunning Photography
This is a part of the world we really want to see. Thanks for sharing.