Kystriksveien-The worlds most beautiful journey.

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Wednesday.
It's been very cold overnight, the price paid for sunny days! We're off on our puffin watching trip today. At the reception we paid the fee and given instructions to put on the warm waterproof suits provided, which made me feel very hot over the top of all the layers I'm already wearing. On top of the suit we wore self inflating buoyancy aids. After the safety briefing we walked to the inflatable RIB. There are 20 people in total and two RIBS, 10 on each. We sat astride the seats, similar to riding a horse. The petrol engine smelt a bit fumey as it ticked over, but once we were moving out of the harbour the fumes were blown away by the breeze. As soon as we were in open water the tour guide opened up the engine and we flew across the water, rising over the waves and slapping back down, it was quite exhilarating. The first island we stopped at was to look at the Gannets and Shags that nest there, we were quite close and managed to get a good view with the binoculars. Next off to see the Puffins, something we have been waiting to see for a long time. As we approached the nesting site there were hundreds paddling around on the sea, they were fishing for food to feed their new hatchlings. The guide told us that last week there wasn't many about as the eggs hadn't hatched, but there's plenty today. They are difficult to photograph as the boat is rocking and the puffins are bobbing up and down on the waves, but we were able to watch them for quite a while, mixed among them were some Razor Bills. At the island nesting site we could see all the burrows into the grassy cliffs, overhead there were a few White Tailed Eagles flying around, they don't nest here they are only here for the food, the chicks! Such beautiful birds though. Soon we were blasting back to the harbour, still warm and dry in our special suits. Back on dry land we had lunch and then found the supermarket for our weekly shop, we've still plenty of food in our stash, but even so buying food for just 4 days came to £95. By mid afternoon we're back on the road, enjoying the warmth of the sunshine through the windows. Our route followed the west coast of Andoya, a scenic tourist route, as usual it lived up to its reputation. There was a place to stop and walk Logan across a small peninsula by a lighthouse. We really need to find somewhere soon where we can let him free for a good run. It's not officially allowed in Norway, dogs should be on a lead at all times, but occasionally we have found a people, animal and bird free spot.It's a beautiful evening, the thermometer in Dream Catcher read 21 when we went to bed, that's looking much better than last week when we were struggling to stay warm.

Thursday.

Feeling liberated this morning! No long johns or vest! The suns shining again. Within an hour of setting off on our days drive, we had reached the ferry at Lodingen which will take us to Bognes. As we arrived at the harbour the ferry was just coming in, good timing. The crossing takes about an hour, so we splash out and buy coffee, whilst we drink it we make use of the free WIFI to upload some photos for the blog. Back on the road we notice a large amount of motorbikes all loaded with camping gear heading north, there must be a big gathering at the weekend. We stopped at a petrol station that had a waste station whilst there Les decided to check the tyre pressures using their machine. As he put some air into the wheel that we had problems with last week the valve started to leak, he quickly moved Dream Catcher to the rear of the building and had to change the tyre. Off we go again! All the way there are groups of bikers roaring north, were travelling on the E10, the main, well really the only major road north to south. By five thirty we find a layby to stop in, it's not the best place we have stayed but it will do for one night. We're both feeling tired and catch a quick nap before eating. The rest of the evening is spent blogging.

Friday.

First job today it to get the valve repaired on the tyre, it's not far to a town, Fauske, where there are a couple of tyre garages. We easily find one and its repaired in no time at all. We left Fauske and the E10 to head for the rv17, the scenic tourist route that runs down the coast, winding in and out of the fjords below towering rocky mountains. It's very breezy today with squally showers, but we're hopeful that it will improve, tonight is our last day in the Arctic Circle and we are hoping to drink champagne by the midnight sun, but it might be the midnight rain, knowing that the sun is shining behind the clouds. Les had found a view point on our route that faces north, perfect for night time sun, it was on a small road off the rv17. As we turned on to the road it was obvious that it has very little use. We drove a couple of kilometres along it following the road along side a lake and parked up at the side of the road as there was a big boulder in the road. It's quite remote here, perfect for Logan to run free. We walked the last couple of kilometres to the viewpoint, it would have been perfect to stay the night except for the gale blowing up the valley off the sea. We walked back and decided to drive on to find a more sheltered spot. As we drove around the road clinging to the edge of the fjords the wind was whipping up the sea and blowing with bits of branches and leaves off the trees which rattled on the side of Dream Catcher, It was really buffeting us about, I felt quite nervous a couple of times, but Les hung on to the steering wheel and kept us on the correct side of the road.As the afternoon passed we came to the car park opposite the Svartisen Glacier, it's not too exposed and has a great view, this will be perfect for our evening plans, even the rain has stopped.After tea, as we were washing up, a camper pulled in and reversed into a space, but reversed too far and the back wheels went into the ditch at the edge of the car park, they tried to drive out a couple of times but the ground was too soft. Oh no! Les went across and offered to pull them out, but they will have to wait until we've finished washing up and put everything away. I gave Logan a quick walk whilst International 4x4 Rescue jumped into action. A couple of minutes later the rescue was complete and there were 2 very relieved Norwegians. They told us that they were from Mo I Rana, not too far away, just away for the weekend. After our chat we went in to watch our film. The weather has turned again and its throwing it down, I don't think we'll be seeing the sun tonight, but we'll still crack open the champagne anyway to celebrate our wonderful time in the north.

Saturday.

Still wet this morning, and a lazy start, we had a quick chat with a British couple who pulled in to use the facilities, they were 3 weeks into a seven week tour and were going as far as the Lofoten Islands. The first ferry we came to was running late, not surprising with the weather. The camper next to us was German, the driver told us that yesterday the ferries from Lofoten to Bodo were cancelled when the waves reached 7 metres, he was lucky to have been on the last one to sail, even though he had to wait two hours for it to sail. As we continued along the coastal route the rain changed to showers. There are seven ferry crossing along the rv17 ranging in time from 10 minutes to an hour, on the shorter ones you usually stay in your vehicle, the longer ones have lounges and cafes. By the time we reached the next ferry our German friend was already waiting for the ferry, he comes across as being a bit impatient, he needs to learn to relax and accept that it's all part of the journey. This ferry will cross the arctic circle so we will actually have a sunset tonight, followed by the sunrise ten minutes later. After we had docked at the other end, we stopped at a couple of viewpoints and contemplated wether to park up for the night, but it's only just after 4 and we've only driven 36 miles, so we decide to carry on, as there appears to be plenty of places to pull into along the way. But of course an hour later and there isn't any suitable parking stops, before we know it we're at the next ferry, a lady walked past us with 2 delicious looking ice creams, we've not had ice cream for weeks, Les is persuaded to part with some money and buy two. They're enormous and hit the spot! A twenty minute ferry crossing this time, then off to find a parking spot, it was quite a while before we came across a lay by that was set back from the road. We had a quick tea, the rain has cleared at last and we enjoy the sun shining through the window.

Sunday.

Maintenance changed a front wheel to the rear, as the spare one he put on does have a small a gash in the wall, it is only superficial though, but he would feel happier with it on the front where there is less weight. Whilst he was doing that I did some washing, it will dry today with the sun shinning. There is a wagon from Romania parked up, the driver came over to talk to Les, telling him that we should visit Romania, it is beautiful and the people are friendly. Logan didn't seem to like him very much and barked at him! As we drove along the rv17 today, the scenery is starting to change, the mountains are lower and the valleys are opening out into lush green pastures where cows and sheep are grazing. We arrived at our first ferry at lunch time, whilst we are in the queue we have a quick sandwich and decide that we will have to have desert, ice cream on the ferry. Once on board Les chose the ice creams, not knowing what the flavours were, mine was most unusual, designed like our Magnum, but the chocolate had pieces of salted liquorice candy in it and the centre was swirled with a liquorice sauce, I love liquorice so well done Les!By mid afternoon we were at Torghatten, a Rocky Mountain, perhaps costal Norway's most famous landmark. Geologists believe that the hole in the mountain came into being after an ice age. The hole 160m long, 35m high and 15m wide can be climbed up to and you can walk through it. As we parked we met a German couple who we have spoken to at several places as we've travelled down to coast. They had just returned from the walk to the hole, they warned us that it was very windy at the top. It only takes around 20 minutes to climb up. We were very impressed by this natural wonder, we walked right through to the other side and took a lot of photos, experimenting with the light and focus. There is a way down the other side, but it comes with plenty of warnings about narrow ledges, precipices and falling rocks. I think we'll give it a miss and retrace our steps. We found a nice spot to camp next to a river. I did some baking and made tea. After tea I walked Logan along the river bank, it's a tidal river and there are some very noisy Common Gulls complaining at me, I scanned the area thinking that they must have a nest close by but couldn't see one. As I walked back the gull was again complaining loudly, then I spotted a small white and brown fluffy chick in the grass, it started to walk in front of me heading for Dream Catcher, now both parents are shouting and diving close to me. Thankfully the chick returned to the grass and I escaped inside.

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