The Netherlands

---

~ * ~ DAY 1 ~ * ~

UTRECHT

We took the train from Schipol Airport to Utrecht. Once in Utrecht I bought a strippenkaart (€7.70 for 15 strips) from the bus station and the bus driver stamped 3 zones for the ride to Robbie’s apartment.

Once Miranda got in, we headed to the city center. From the central station, we walked toward the large Dom tower. We found our way to the main canal, which was lined with shops and cafes on both sides. However, most windows we passed on our way to Oude Pothuys were dark. We climbed down the stairs at Oude Pothuys, where there is live music every night, only to find we were a bit early for the music. The only thing on the bar menu was “Nachos with sauce” but the waitress told us they were not chips with cheese sauce, but actually, more like cheese-flavored chips (ie. Doritos??). We decided to leave and look for food elsewhere, which proved incredibly challenging at 9:30pm on a Tuesday. Several responses to our inquiry on whether they were still serving food included: "Food?!? HA.” and “We have toast.”

We finally came across a pizza and kebab place, where we happily dug into shoarma.

~ * ~ DAY 2 ~ * ~

THE HAGUE

From the Utrecht central station we took the train (€5.50, 35 mins) to Den Haag. The Hague is the seat of the Dutch government as well as a center for international justice. There were several modern high-rise buildings peeking out from behind the cafes and shops that lined the Plein, the main square, over which a statue of William of Orange, the founder of the Dutch nation, watched carefully. The picturesque Binnenhof reflected beautifully in the Court Pond, the only remnant of the moat that once lined the former castle now serving as parliament.

Following our trusty pocket map from the tourist information office we headed north, being careful to look in 6 directions every time we crossed the street (need to watch out for cars, trams, and bicycles!). We passed mansions that housed various embassies and headquarters of international organizations. Discarded Christmas trees (it was the 12th day of Christmas) and colorful bikes lined the sidewalks. We finally turned a corner and caught sight of the impressive Peace Palace, home to the International Criminal Court. There were several interesting monuments at the entrance, including a peace flame tribute made of rocks from every country in the world.

The Palace Garden near the Royal Stables had an interesting sculpture park and there was more to see in the shop windows of the design district. Raamstraat, a tiny alley off of the main Grote Marktstraat with department stores, had amazing and very creative graffiti covering the entire length of the wall.

Upon entering the decorative red gate, we knew we were in Chinatown. We quickly found a restaurant that served dim sum and attempted to order in Cantonese. We got huge portions and free rice, so I guess it was a success! We took a quick spin through the area labeled “Exotic District” on our map, which turned out to be two blocks of Turkish restaurants and Indian grocery stores. At least the swans in the canal entertained us!

DELFT

We hopped on tram line #1 and headed to the (very) nearby town of Delft (4 zones on the strippenkaart, 20 mins). A few minutes after getting off the tram, we stumbled across an interesting urban planning exhibit which featured several current projects to revitalize the city, from the creation of additional green zones and open public spaces to underground tram tunnels. It seems like quite a large undertaking, and I’ll have to come back in a few years to see how different it looks.

Delft is famous for its blue and white pottery, which came about as imitations of Chinese porcelain. Delft pottery combines European and Asian elements in an interesting traditional fusion design. We followed arrows but somehow couldn’t find the Royal Delft Factory, so we wandered through the vibrant pedestrianized shopping and cultural area. Crossing several small canals, we came to the large Markt square which featured the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) on one end and the Staadhuis on the other, with numerous cafes and Delft souvenir shops in between. We spent some time taking jumping pictures with the silhouette of the Staadhuis and Markt square in the background (so much time in fact that the Nieuwe Kerk was closed before we realized! Didn’t know at the time, but apparently paying €5.50 will allow entrance to the top of the tower, from which you can see both the Hague and Rotterdam. And even Amsterdam on a clear day!!). Since the sun was quickly setting, we popped into one of the souvenir shops to pick up some Delft pottery then headed back to the train station.

ROTTERDAM

15 minutes later we were in Rotterdam (€1.70). We met up with Miranda’s college friend and stopped for gelato in a café. The vanilla and karmeel were amazing. We had dinner at Hotel Bazar, which was beautifully decorated in an “Arabian nights” theme. Colorful glass lanterns hung from the ceiling, which was completely covered in tiny mirrors. The kebab and chicken stew came in a generous portion size, which we gobbled up eagerly.

After dinner, we walked along the wide avenues to the water for a view of Erasmus bridge. We walked along a small “walk of fame” with hand prints and signatures of seemingly random celebrities (including Shrek!). The water was lined with old port machinery, though only a few small fishing boats were docked. The cranes were lit up in colorful lights, sort of like modern art. Rotterdam used to be the busiest port in the world until Shanghai overtook it in 2004. Maybe it was just because it was night, or that the major operations were farther from the city center, but the town seemed quite sleepy. There were hardly any people, or cars, on the dimly lit streets and the residences near the port were also quiet. We learned that many people who work in Rotterdam actually live in other cities nearby, like Utrecht, and commute daily. Perhaps this is because Rotterdam was badly destroyed in WWII and is almost a completely rebuilt modern city, which tall glass office buildings. On our way back to the train station we passed a large plaza that paid tribute to the city’s shipping sector with cranes as lighting structures.

Before we knew it, we were back in Utrecht (30 mins, €5.50).

~ * ~ DAY 3 ~ * ~

AMSTERDAM

It was a wet and cold day, almost the opposite of when I last visited Amsterdam in the summer of 2003. After the 27 minute train ride from Utrecht (it's still a bit crazy to me that in Europe I can travel to another city in half the time it takes me to get across Hong Kong!), we arrived at the Amsterdam Centraal Station.

We joined the New Sandeman's free tour which left at 11am right outside the tourist information center (where, btw, they were selling city maps for €2.50!). At the National Monument we were divided into the English and Spanish groups (who knew Amsterdam was a Spanish tourist hotspot?). Our first stop was the red light district, where we learned about how the Old Church began making money by forgiving the sins of sailors who passed through Amsterdam. This formed the basis of Amsterdam’s business ethic – if it’s good for business and can be taxed, it’s good to go, as long as you’re discreet about it.

Our guide told us that Amsterdam had 500 churches and 221 “coffee” shops. Although marijuana was decriminalized a few years ago, it is still illegal and shops can’t directly market it. Recently, the government decided that they will no longer be issuing new permits, so the coffee shops risk losing current ones unless strict guidelines (ie. no weapons) are followed.

We grabbed a lunchtime snack at a pastry shop near to Dam Square, where the palace exterior was under renovation (and apparently has been for more than seven years already!). We continued to wind our way around the concentric canals of the Canal Ring district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its 17th-century canal-side townhouses, many of which are leaning slightly due to their weak foundations. We passed by the Jewish district of town which had fallen into ruins from pillaging during WWII. It was rebuilt in a 1960s/70s architectural style that clashed badly with the rest of the characteristic canal-side buildings.

Midway through our tour, we were interrupted by a local who started complaining to our tour guide that the tour groups were getting larger and larger every year and who demanded to see his permit. Despite this incident, our Australian guide assured us that what he most loved about the city was that everyone (or 99.9%!o(MISSING)f the people) were very open and welcoming of all people.

After the tour we visited the Anne Frank House (Prinsengracht 267, €8) where her family hid behind her father’s office during the Nazi occupation of Amsterdam. We climbed up the steep staircase behind the bookshelf to their “Secret Annex” where the windows were covered in black material, which cut them off from the outside world. It was a solemn reminder of the atrocities that were committed during WWII and a bit shocking to realize the extent of the Nazi's control, even extending to a place so open and non-discriminatory as the Netherlands. We learned that at least the Dutch protested in solidarity with the Jews, refusing to go to work and thus threatening to cripple the economy that the Nazis depended on. Unfortunately the Nazis responded violently to the Dutch, but many Jews were thankful to know they were not alone.

A short walk later, we were at Museumplein, the large square with a number of museums, and the "I AmSterdam" sign. At the Rijksmuseum (€12.50) where we saw Rembrandt’s famous Night Watch (interestingly, it depicts a daytime scene!)

We then decided it was time for food. We saw a few pancake houses near the Bloemenmarkt (flower market - because of the season, it was mostly only tulip bulbs that were on sale). But we were shocked upon entering one of the restaurants only to be told that they were closing already. What! It was only 5:30pm! After wandering past many more streets of closed restaurants, we found a quiet Italian restaurant and enjoyed fresh pizza while drying our gloves, coats and bags along the heaters by the window. After dinner we wandered back through the alleys of Amsterdam, and stumbled across a desserts store. We ordered poffertjes, Dutch mini pancakes, with all the toppings: whipped cream, chocolate dip, strawberries and a scoop of stroopwafel cookie and caramel ice cream – mmmmm perfection!! It had been quite a productive day of sightseeing, despite the pouring rain all day!

~ * ~ DAY 4 ~ * ~

UTRECHT

Today we visited the Dick Bruna Museum, which pays homage to the creator of "Miffy", the cartoon rabbit. The small museum showcased Dick Bruna’s work, including the designs of book covers, and highlighted the global impact of his creations (ie. many postcards from Japan!). It was interesting to see his process of creating a single picture, using only paper, pencil, paint, colored paper and scissors – no computer technology! His work is also heavily regulated, with guidelines on the standard color palette and even the thickness of each black line.

Our ticket (€4 students) also gave admission to the Centraal Museum Utrecht, where we saw an exhibit on Rietveld’s architectural and design work. The exhibit was huge and compensated for the fact that we couldn't get a reservation to the Rietveld Schröderhuis. We also saw an old wooden boat that was used in Utrecht over 1000 years ago.

We walked back along the Oudegracht canal towards the train station. I found it interesting that there is a lower level of doors right along the canal, even with a fairly wide “sidewalk” where there were benches and trees. We saw a boat delivering food supplies and other goods directly to the storerooms below shops and restaurants. We found a small soup and sandwich shop, with bright red tulips (early for the season! I wonder where they were grown…) in vases on the tables. Miranda tried the traditional green pea soup, which is apparently one of the few Dutch culinary specialties.

~ * ~ DAY 5 ~ * ~

KINDERDIJK

Today we set off with Rosa to Kinderdijk to see the iconic windmills of the Netherlands. Despite finding only partial information online, we took Arriva bus 90 directly from the Central Station in Utrecht (leaving from Jaabeursplein once every hour; it was cheaper to buy a ticket from the bus driver for €5 than to use the strippenkart or OV-chipkaart, which is ~11cents/km + 79cents base fare). The 1.5 hour bus ride drove through picturesque small towns and we had a great view from the high road, looking down on thatched-roof homes to our left and barges on the river to our right. It was amazing to realize that all the towns were actually built below the water level, shielded by a simple barrier of soil. The long thin strip fields behind houses were evidence of the medieval land-tenure system, and created an interesting man-made landscape.

We got off the bus at the Molenkade stop, and were treated to a beautiful panoramic view of the 19 windmills preserved today, many of them still serving as family residences. Kinderdijk is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its water management techniques and technology. The windmills (specifically, watermills) were part of a system of dykes, reservoirs and hydraulic works that drained the marshy peat land for agriculture and settlement, beginning in the Middle Ages. (Though we saw a pair of large modern metal pumps that serve that function today.)

We visited the Nederwaard windmill number 2 to get an inside look at a windmill (€2.85 students, only open on weekends in the winter). We learned that bonnet windmills have two doors because the top section revolves with the wind, so the entrance that is safe to exit/enter from changes with the wind direction. This particular round drainage mill was built of stone in 1738 and had four floors which housed the family of 8. The beds were built into the wall like closets and there was a small living room on the ground floor. The walls were lined with several wooden clogs, some with boot leg extensions up to the knee - indeed the fashion, and very practical, back in the day. While the windmill wasn’t being used we could see the ingenious mechanical system within the core of the building, which once harnessed the power of the wind to drain water to a pool 1.5 meters higher.

There was a really nice footpath between the dykes, which curved through the axis of the windmills. Many families were out for a stroll, bike and even a horse ride. Signs lining the path explained the history and inner workings of the windmills, and even showed how the positions of the sails could indicate celebration or mourning periods. On the other side of the river (Overwaard) were a line of wooden windmills built in 1740. (We also saw a duck trying to eat a frog, which was a bit disturbing!) The sunset was the perfect backdrop to the end of a beautiful day.

~ * ~ DAY 6 ~ * ~

UTRECHT

Today I visited the Rietveld Schröder House, one of the few 20th century sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List (€3 with the Museumkaart). We were required to put plastic bags around our shoes to protect the house, which seemed like a simple two storey building from the outside. But upon exploration of the inside, I discovered little details that revealed the thoughtfulness and aesthetic of the designer. I loved the sliding doors of the upper floor that could be tucked away during the day to create a large open space. Even the bathtub was hidden from view. There were many things to notice, it’s just too bad no photography was allowed!

The Rietveld Schröder House is under the administration of the Centraal Museum, which loans bikes to visitors to travel between the two sites. Unfortunately they don’t loan bikes from the house, so I walked along a canal in the rain to my next destination.

I made a quick stop at the Spoorwegmuseum, a beautiful railway museum housed in a huge complex (c14.50, or free with the Museumkaart!). The museum showcased “how the train changed the world”, with exhibits showing the evolution of railway trains. I though the museum did a great job in capturing the spirit of discovery and magic of travel.

~ * ~ DAY 7 ~ * ~

AMSTERDAM

My second day in Amsterdam was also rainy so I got a late start to the museums.

The Rembrandt House Museum (free with the Museumkaart) was the house where the artist lived and worked, and is also the house which drove him into eventual bankruptcy. It was interesting to climb the narrow spiral staircase that was the spine of the house. His rooms had box beds that could be hidden during the day and even platforms that offered him a view of the busy street below. Besides his workshop, Rembrandt also had a room of curiosities – seashells, busts, swords, skulls, the usual (he was quite the collector!).

I next visited the Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam, aka FOAM (free with the Museumkaart). From the large bright galleries I could see outside to what must be a beautiful garden in the warmer months. The first exhibit I saw was “Landscapes without Memory”, digital works by Joan Fontcuberta. It was a bit difficult to understand at first, since the concept was so different. Apparently the artist used computer software that simulates topography to create virtual landscapes from painted landscapes such as Van Gogh and Gauguin. It was definitely something different and intriguing. The second exhibits showcased various photo collections by W. Eugene Smith, who was well known for his powerful photo essays on topics/themes ranging from country doctors and Pittsburgh to WWII and mercury poisoning in Minamata.

I rushed over to Museumplein but missed the Van Gogh museum before it closed. It was nice walking along the canals as dusk fell and watching the lights brighten along the canal and streets. Before dinner, I made a stop by Hard Rock Café in Max Euweplein to pick up a pin. I also had time to browse the shop and restaurant fronts in Leidseplein, a busy square which was especially bustling with commuters getting off work.

I met up with a friend from my high school days. Cat brought me to a Surinamese restaurant, where we enjoyed chicken, lamb and roti. (Apparently there was a flood of immigrants from Suriname when the country became independent in 1975. Surinamese make up 2%!o(MISSING)f the population in the Netherlands – although this also translates to 40%!o(MISSING)f the Surinamese population living in the Netherlands! As a former Dutch colony, Surinamese, as well as Indonesian, restaurants are not hard to find.) It was great to catch up with an old friend and share our insights into the ways in which Europe differs from the US and Asia. Even though the world really does feel quite small sometimes.

---

Photos

Oude Pothuys
Along the Oude Gracht in Utrecht

Binnehof
The Binnehof in the Hague

The Peace Palace
Home of the International Criminal Court, The Hague

Graffiti
Raamstraat graffiti, The Hague

Stadhuis
In the Plein in Delft

Rotterdam port
Cranes and other shipping machine still line the old port at Rotterdam

Amsterdam Canal
A view from one of Amsterdam's many canals

I AMsterdam
At Museumplein, Amsterdam

Poffertjes
Dutch pancakes/waffles with all the works (whipped cream, chocolate sauce, strawberries and stroopwafel and caramel ice cream). The best of Dutch cuisine.

Dick Bruna Museum
We spent some quality time with Miffy.

Kinderdijk
At visitor windmill #2

Kinderdijk
Windmills

Kinderdijk
UNESCO World Heritage Site

Rietveld Schroderhuis
Utrecht
UNESCO World Heritage Site

Het Spoorwegmuseum
The railway museum in Utrecht

Canal
Canals lit up at night, Amsterdam

Leidseplein
Pedestrians, bikes, trams

Cartoon bike "bells"
Just one way to distinguish your bike from the tens of thousands in Amsterdam